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The clutch fan seems to be operating properly. The engine temp never gets over 160 degrees. I did notice that the fuel line on the output side of the fuel pump is touching the lower radiator hose. Not a good thing but this should not cause enough heat to cause fuel to vaporize. I will replace the hose and I will be able to wrap the fuel line with some thermal protective shield. I will keep everyone updated on the outcome.
2025 C2 of the Year ('63 and '67) Finalist - Unmodified
2024 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Originally Posted by portland68
I need some help, along with my LT-1. Here is what is going on; My 71 LT-1 starts, idles, and drives just fine until I open it up on the freeway and the secondaries kick in just fine. It takes off like a rocket I exit the freeway and will stop at a light and the car coughs and sputters when I take off. It will get worse as time goes on. The idle will start getting very erratic and will die. What I have done is have had the Orig carb rebuilt twice (by someone that knows what they are doing), rebuilt the orig. disturber, new fuel pump, timing checked and rechecked. It does have the original coil, could this be the cause of the problems that I am experiencing? Can I use a regular coil with the original distributor? Steve
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My bet is the coil. If it is not a heat / fuel perc problem, I'd be looking at the coil. The resistance goes up with heat soak in the coil and thus, killing the voltage (weak spark). And to my knowledge, no, you cannot use just any old coil on a TI system.
Well napa68, I think you are right. The heat riser is wired open and I put thermal wrap on the output side of the fuel pump up to the carb. It still does the same thing so I just ordered a new coil and we will see if it takes care of the problem. After that I have no idea what else it could be.. Steve
Well napa68, I think you are right. The heat riser is wired open and I put thermal wrap on the output side of the fuel pump up to the carb. It still does the same thing so I just ordered a new coil and we will see if it takes care of the problem. After that I have no idea what else it could be.. Steve
My '72 was having issues like yours. After insulating the pump and fuel lines helped but did not cure the issue I gave up and switched to an electric pump near the tank. No more issues.
If that is the engine in it, it is not original. The transmission extremely unlikely.
What year. If 72 they are ID in the VIN if IRC. If earlier, look for three holes/nuts in the front of the left wheel well. They are for the TI amplifier.
Oh, and check to see if the cross member under the transmission is bolt in. Such only used, I believe, in cars originally built with an auto.
The tach should have a 6500 red line, unless 72 with AC.
All easy to check.
Last edited by Dirty Dalton; Aug 30, 2019 at 10:39 AM.
Although the smog pump is gone and the associated exhaust manifolds are not correct for the A.I.R system, the fast idle solenoid is still there. The engine might be the original born-with.....would need to see the stamp pad and VIN of course. The build sheet will be interesting to see.
This is the correct engine.Approach this car with utmost caution. Too many red lights flashing IMO.CURIOUS! I swear I saw a group of engine pictures associated with this car, and the engine clearly was not correct. My apologies if I've steered you astray.
Last edited by Dirty Dalton; Aug 30, 2019 at 06:28 PM.
Since it is TI, the coil seems to be bad. The repro TI coils are junk. Contact Dave Fielder at TI Specialties and purchase a coil off of him. I had the same problem with my 68. Dave's coils are engineered for TI and not just advertised as a TI coil.
Since it is TI, the coil seems to be bad. The repro TI coils are junk. Contact Dave Fielder at TI Specialties and purchase a coil off of him. I had the same problem with my 68. Dave's coils are engineered for TI and not just advertised as a TI coil.
