Do you know if the timing chain and gear have been replaced?
The original is nylon and the one in my 71 LT1 with 45k miles had 3-4 teeth which were nearly chewed off when I replaced it last august.

 

I don't think it matters at all but since you asked, not sure I've ever seen the trim plate rivets rust nor seen both with the mandrels still attached. Maybe a re-rivet after some paint?
Underbody looks very clean. Crazy price for a running LT powered C3!

 

Wow they used nylon timing gears on a SBC?! That's ridiculous! I think the engine may have been rebuilt - or at least a cam put in it. Pulled the valve covers off and it looks mint, and has roller rockers. Sounds like there's a little cam as well - so I'm assuming the timing set was replaced. Going to have to double check and make sure now!

 

Interesting, it must of been re riveted as some point?

I do have the correct single fuel line, and the half shafts are held on with the correct bearing caps, not the u bolts that are used on base cars. So I'm certain that it's a real LT-1! , and all the numbers line up.

 

I got the car dialed in nicely, and running great! Finally got to drive her around the neighborhood, and the car certainly has some power! With the 4.11 gears and 4 speed, it gets through those gear quickly, no way this car will ever see the interstate lol But it's a lot of fun to drive, going to be a great weekend cruiser!

When I pulled the valve covers I found nice Harland Sharp Roller rockers under them! Someone did some work to this car, I think there may be a small cam in it. Here's a video of her idling, what do y'all think?

 

Here's a peak at the roller rockers on the heads.

 

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I'm thinking Commander Cody and the Lost Planet Airmen! I think it sounds similar to mine. Mine no longer has 4.11s; Walter, the first owner, claimed it could lift the left front wheel off the ground. There's something for you to try around the neighborhood!

 

Well more like plastic coated gears.

I'm guessing to cut down on noise.

 

Very Nice, Sounds great. I'll bet you will have a great summer

 

These are the oem style mirrors that will fit your 71.

 

Thanks! I actually had a member ask me last night if I'd trade my 1980 sport mirrors for their '71 chrome mirrors. Waiting for pics, and I'll likely swap with them.

 

I believe that was me that sent you the PM.

 

Here ya go!

Updated 10-9-2021. A great list I saved from a posting here years ago plus have added many contributors notes since:

There are a few things that only a LT-1 would have , some are pretty easy to change out and some are not very easy at all.in no particular order.

1st. No 1970 or 1971 LT-1 had A/C

2nd. Emission sticker on fire wall behind master cylinder should have letters AX on upper left corner for a 71.

3rd. All LT-1's are 4 speeds. (M20 was std , M21/M22 were optional)

4th. Tach has 6,500 RPM red line on 1970 & 1971 and on 72's w/o AC

5th. All 71 LT-1's came with A.I.R. system. If removed should still have manifolds with holes for the tubes, Car may have headers and if so ask to see old manifolds.

6th. LT-1's had copper radiator W/O a overflow canisiter on the passanger side fenderwell. There should also be no holes where one had been mounted.


7th. All 70 / 71 LT-1's had Tranisitor Ign. system. That may have been removed. But if it is removed look for the 3 holes on the front face of the driver side inner fender well where the Amplifer box was mounter.

Take a flashlight and look in front of the front wheel or open hood and look at it from the front side. 2 holes on bottom and 1 on top. No TI on the 72 LT-1


8th. Should have a Winters snowflake intake manifold with casting # 3959594
for 1971 and 1972, per NCRS, 1970 should be #3972110. Both manifolds are aluminum (my addition).


9th. LT-1's had a Holley carb. so there is only 1 fuel line , no return line like a quadra-jet carb. Look along frame rail on passanger side for the single line. Also the fuel tank is different. There should be no nipple on the passanger side, side wall for a return line.

If you lay on your back under the rear wheel you can reach your hand up and feel for an indention on the passanger side. If there is a nipple that is capped off , then beware.

Also the single fuel line on a LT-1 was not the same line that was used to feed fuel on the 2 line set up. So if someone removed the return line the look of the 3/8 line is still different. Not a big difference but if you can look at a car with a 2 line set up then you can see what you do not want to find.

10th. LT-1's had solid lifters , but if the car does not then that is not to big a red flag. Many people do not like them and may have replaced with HYD. lifters during a rebuild.


11th. The hardest to fake and most expensive would be the 4 bolt main block. No # on the outside of the block can verify this.

Only way to verify is to remove the pan or have a lighted optical viewer and remove the drain plug.


12th. LT-1's use 2.5" exhaust pipes like the big block cars. But the manifolds were still 2" set up. So the pipes flair from 2 to 2.5" about 6 inches from the manifold. The exhaust hangar at the trans is also different. Look online at the Corvette Central site and you can see both 2" and 2.5" hangars.

13th. As I recall the highest rear end gear was 3:36 if trans was a M20

And if trans was a M21 or M22 the 3:55 was highest gear

M20 3:36 Economy

3:55 Standard

3:70 Performance


M21 / M22

3:55 Economy

3:70 Standard

4:11 Performance

14th. The 71 /72 LT-1 Aluminum valve covers should have a rubber oil cap not a twist in. These covers are very hard to find. All the catalog’s sell the twist in cap style.

A 70 LT-1 has the regular slotted twist in oil cap

15th. LT-1's have the same heavy duty half shaft retainers as big block cars. Look at the rear end side yokes, there should be caps with bolts. Base cars used U bolts with nuts.

16th. The rocker arms have a letter O stamped in them.

17th. The balancer on the crankshaft is an 8" unit not a 6"



18th . An original LT-1 hood would not have the holes for 454 number emblems since LT-1 decal and stencil was used.

That is all I know of. and you could not fake all of this and sell a car for a mid 20's price and be worth the effort / expense.

So until someone finds the lost records from St Louis anyone buying a no base model car will be going out on a limb at little unless you are buying from the original owner.

19th You could add No p/s in 1970 with a CTU engine. CTU had the 6 qt. oil pan. 72 and 71 (later 71?) had the regular 5 qt oil pan. Also, plastic fan shrouds on LT1s. 10-23-20




20th. Lots of places to find this (the key is of course: is it an original stamp?)
1970 CTK, CTR, CTU CTV(ZR1)
1971 CGY(ZR1), CGZ
1972 CKY CKZ(ZR1) CRS CRT



21. One other item to add to your list for LT-1, is they had a beefer oil pump spring which resulted in higher oil pressure. If the vehicle runs, this can easily be checked. I want to say the pressure is just under 40 psi for non LT-1 and just under 70 psi for LT-1 ... but I can't be certain 10-9-2021

 

Thanks for this list Mercury! For the original parts that I do have on my car, everything matches up!

I haven't verified everything on my transmission or rear end, so not certain of gears. Will do this next and post up the results! I'm going to need to change the gear oil in both as well. Please don't tell me a C3 D44 doesn't have a drain plug like a C4 D44...

 

Well I've gotten most everything inspected, engine dialed in, and finally working oil pressure/temp gauges so I could monitor the vitals: It's time to cruise my backroads!

Car cruises with excellent oil pressure (55PSI), maintains a steady 165F when cruising (I normally don't like a thermostat this cold on modern engines - what's the thought on SBC?) , cruises beautifully, brakes work, suspension is tight, no weird rattles: This car is getting close to road worthy!!! She's a hoot to cruise in, had the T-tops off!

I need to make a list of next things to check/fix before she's on the road, please provide insight:

1) Brakes - going to bleed them and put fresh brake fluid to be safe, because I don't know the age of the current brake fluid.
2) Power steering ram is leaking - how bad are these to rebuild or should I just buy a new ram?
3) change fluid in trans
4) change fluid in rear end and inspect
5) grease all fittings

 

If you can find repo mirrors as came on a 71, that HOLD their set position, please tell us!

 

How do the brake hoses look? I ordered a set and will flush the fluid for the same reason you mentioned.
I bought the car on Wed. and put it on jack stands Thur., it needed tires as well.

 

To my surprise. when I pulled the wheels off all the brakes were new, including the rubber hoses! Rotors had rust on them, but I'm sure I knocked it all off from driving it this weekend lol . What'd you pick up and what kind of work do you need? Mine needs new tires and wheels as well.

 

And I should have pointed that last Fall the glass on the driver's side mirror fell out, dinging the paint.

At least I still have the original, which holds its position just fine.

 

OMG that's frustrating!!!!!