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I see it has a rear pace car spoiler but no front spoiler or air dam. You'll need that to prevent overheating problems. Many of the supporting vendors sell them. Also pick up a service manual and the Assembly Instruction Manual. Check the 5th position of the vin number. If it is 4 it;s an L-82. If 8 it's the base L-48. Best of luck with your project.
It's a 4. I kept seeing references to that in parts lists. 1Z8749S4...
Thank you for that.
Since the passenger rear won't turn, I disconnected that 1/2 shaft. The wheel still won't turn, but both shafts now can. I am thinking the emergency brake is stuck somehow. I saw on some other thread that the rotors are riveted on. That should be interesting. By the way, I think this is too rusty to keep in any event.
It's still stuck on the trailer. I looked up towing on the forum and was inspired to try this approach to pull it off. Seems a reasonable approach to pulling it backwards for a few feet. Seems solid and unlikely to interfere with anything else.
Since the passenger rear won't turn, I disconnected that 1/2 shaft. The wheel still won't turn, but both shafts now can. I am thinking the emergency brake is stuck somehow. I saw on some other thread that the rotors are riveted on. That should be interesting. By the way, I think this is too rusty to keep in any event.
If you can remove the brake pads from the caliper, but the rotor does not turn still, then the e- brake is definitely frozen stuck. If the pads won't budge from the caliper, then that's your issue.
It came home. I initially offered $700 and paid $1000. Since I knew his family, I didn't want to seem like I was trying to get it for nothing. When I first saw it, and before posting on this forum, I thought it was going to be much higher. The online discussion helped us realize that this was going to be an interesting project, and not an investment.
It got a wash and vacuum today. We had to drag it onto my trailer because the rear passenger side wheel would not turn. I saw another thread here along those lines...
The project begins!
It's a relief to see this automotive work of art pulled out of the bushes; a fate it didn't deserve. What this car has always needed more than anything else is for someone to love her. Everything else will follow.
If you can remove the brake pads from the caliper, but the rotor does not turn still, then the e- brake is definitely frozen stuck. If the pads won't budge from the caliper, then that's your issue.
I had the wheel off last night, and the pads aren't frozen to the rotor. Got a screw driver in there to show me some daylight anyway. If the e-brake is that stuck, then i wonder if the rotor is going cooperate at all?
You might get lucky with some Kano Kroil or ATF/acetone. But if you can't turn the hub, you can't loosen the star nut. Hopefully someone has a better idea, but one possibility is to send the whole trailing arm off to get rebuilt.
You could also attempt some carefully placed whacks with a lump hammer or deadblow to the face and edge of the rotor "hat". Just don't gall up the threads. You can put the lugnuts on to protect them.
Has anyone tried drilling into the parking brake drum surface to get oil in there? It will destroy the rotors and parking shoes but that's much better than the hubs. You could also cut the star wheel adjuster if you go from the bottom.
And can we talk about those smoothie wheels? Never seen that on a c3, it looks pretty cool!
This is a closer shot of the wheels. They are supposed to have some kind of wire basket hub cover. The current plan is to clean the rust and flaky plating as best as I can. Maybe paint the center cone black. Should be nice enough for the time being.
This is a closer shot of the wheels. They are supposed to have some kind of wire basket hub cover. The current plan is to clean the rust and flaky plating as best as I can. Maybe paint the center cone black. Should be nice enough for the time being.
That's exactly what yours are. There would have been a wire wheel portion to these - thick wire wheels that were popular back in the day. Have you ever thought about the AR Torq Thrust VN1055861's (VN105D)? They are very reasonably priced and look awesome. I bought some for my '69 (haven't mounted them yet), but GolfObsessed recently mounted them on his '80, which is closer to your body style than mine, and they look great.
Glad you saved this car, Mark. Looks like a great project! So far all I'm seeing is some surface rust underneath, and that's nothing to worry about. How about some pics of the interior and underhood?
Glad you saved this car, Mark. Looks like a great project! So far all I'm seeing is some surface rust underneath, and that's nothing to worry about. How about some pics of the interior and underhood?
Here's a few shots:
Both rears have this inside wear pattern.
Pretty much rust free.
Spark plug wires must be tasty.
Just a general look.
Padding eaten under the driver's seat and I'm still trying to get the driver's door opened.
Car is missing the distributor shielding and air cleaner dual ducting, but it looks like the original L82 valve covers are present. Also, you have an in-line fuel filter that needs to go. Not safe. Hopefully you still have the QJet carb.
Based on these latest photos, this car is loaded with 1979 options. L82, power windows, power locks, rear window defog, A/C, cruise control, tilt/tele column, sport mirrors. I like the yellow paint / doeskin color combo. My guess is this car rolled off the line in the first seven or so months of production.
A rust-free frame and birdcage signal great potential for this Wyoming C3 that you rescued from the abyss.
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1979 L82 M21 FE7
Classic White / Doeskin
