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Our home was built in 1970.
The 100amp main panel is on the exterior garage wall and the sub/breaker panel is on the interior wall on the opposite side of the garage.
The circuit breakers are all the original Zinsco’s that are no longer available.
If we decide not to move out of California, we’ll need to upgrade our service panel to a 200amp main and replace the sub panel and all the breakers.
At that time I’ll run 220 30amp and 50amp outlets
Until then, I’ll live with what we have.
F.Y.I.
I am in the same boat of them no longer available but with a different brand of breakers.
Just in case you need one or two as they do fatigue over time there still is a source for you.
Out of curiosity I did a quick search on fleabay and there are: NEW: 811 results for zinsco circuit breakers NEW & USED: 5,400+ results for zinsco circuit breakers
Never heard of Zinsco but understand what you are saying and have dealt with a few Federal Pacific StabLok panels. They appear to have the same problem - the breakers simply don't operate. Scary, that needs replaced for sure.
I have a nice GE 40/80 main panel sitting two feet from my right front fender and would just stick a surface mount next to it if I needed one.
Square Ds are top notch but can be pricey and have two product lines - Homeline and QO, the two product lines have physical differences and don't mix & match.In each case and the panels for both will only accept the appropriate Square D breaker, there's a little inherent bump/notch they include that prevents you from jamming a different brand in there. Great for the electrical inspector but if your water heater's out on a cold weekend and you can't find the specific breaker you need you stay cold.
In contrast GE panels use BR style breakers which are pretty common. Big box stores generally have them from several manufacturers that would work fine in a pinch; Murray, Siemens, Square D.
Good luck with that. Again, I'm not an electrician but have been to this rodeo a few times before.
They have become very valuable in California.
So much so they are a huge theft item and if you don’t have a good lock on your panel, thieves will pull them during the night or when you aren’t home.
I was going to place an order several days ago and did not finalize. I had a discount code that was better than what they are offering on their website however I cannot locate the code. Anyone able to assist? Thanks!
I called Quick Jack directly to verify I measured correctly and was ordering the right model to lift all three of our vehicles.
The person I spoke to applied their “in house” discount code for phone orders.
You have to ask for it.
OldCarBum
The AN fittings do NOT need any sealant.....just ensure the seating surfaces are clean.
My suggestion:
On the Non-AN fittings use both Teflon Tape and Sealant let them dry for ~24 hours....... no need to re-invent the wheel and have to do it over again. Don't specifically recollect if I used the tape & sealant on the O-ring fittings...... I can you look if you want me to...I suspect I ended up using both.....
I would appreciate you double checking if you used both on the O ring fittings.
On the videos I watched they even used both on the threads of the two an fittings, but they didn’t use any sealant or tape on the O ring fittings.
Thanks for the help!
I used tape and the supplied sealant being careful to keep away from the first thread of the fitting. I did not use anything on on O-ring side of the 90 degree ORB fitting.
The supplied directions made those things clear.
I did use it on the other end of the ORB fitting because the directions make no mention of it. I didn't think they needed anything because again, it was not mentioned but I did anyway. No drips, leaks, problems whatsoever. Easy to bleed, lifted evenly, it all worked just like it's supposed to.
My impression is that there have been multiple revisions of the directions - mine was very recent - so they may not have made things clear in the past, wouldn't surprise me. People like to overthink things and make trouble for themselves. The directions also say that many of their warranty claims stem from contamination of the hydraulic system with tape, goop etc from misapplications which is probably why the current rev of the directions is so specific.
I have read about problems with those quick connect fittings. No problems there either after I lubed them with the ATF I used and paid attention to the lock orientation - again made clear in the directions
My suggestion:
On the Non-AN fittings use both Teflon Tape and Sealant let them dry for ~24 hours....... no need to re-invent the wheel and have to do it over again..
^^^^^ Yup, what you said about drying fully. Something else came up when I did this and mine got more than 24 hours. I brought them into the heated basement to dry also.
The directions have a big STOP that tells you to wait 24hrs. Kind of silly IMO.
All things considered, who's in a hurry with these things? I'm sure not.
.
Last edited by pigfarmer; Jan 4, 2025 at 09:49 AM.
My '69 has side pipes. The rubber blocks aren't tall enough to let me position the jack properly so I ordered their SUV adapters.
I randomly googled 'QJ discount code' and a magic one appeared at that knocked 15% off.
I had other scrap to use in the interim but these look like nice, heavy well made units that made me feel a little better about the $$. We'll see later how they work out - my number stick says they should be fine and I'll check later today.
I've been using my Quickjack for years. I assembled it exactly per the instructions (at that time). I used teflon tape, but no sealant at all. No leaks.
