I have a 1974 stingray 350ci with an automatic. Currently have regular ignition- points n condenser. What would it take to change it over to electronic ignition. Type of distributor, wires n plugs. Looked at a 1975 distributor. What combination would be the best. Daily driver.

Thanks. Jose

 

so adjusting the points every 10k miles is too much work?

 

My car was already converted when purchased. MSD electronic distributor and MSD wires. Still have an external coil, MSD as well. The external coil is required for the Corvette ignition system. Maybe someone above my paygrade can explain why the ignition requires an external coil to be compatible. Why not use an MSD street fighter that has the coil inside the cap.?

 

That doesn't sound like very helpful reply.

 

 

He said it was just a driver and street car.

 

Nowhere man thanks, everyone else peace out

 

Luis,

You could buy a '75 dist. However, there is an old saying: Never buy the First-Model-Out. And I believe the '75 was first.
It means, wait a yr until they work the bugs out.

If you want a better upgrade, as mentioned above, the MSD StreetFire is an excellent "middle of the pack" unit.

I have never swapped out to HEI but somebody here will help you with the wiring.
Your starter solenoid has an extra wire lug for points / condenser system that needs to be addressed.

The "pointless" IGN concept was considered one of best past inventions in automotive history.
Kind of like tire pressure monitors. motor oil usage monitors, remote start, and XM Radio today.

 

Get a Pertronix III Igniter to replace the points, their high voltage coil and 7mm plug wires. You will not be sorry.

 

until it fails on the side of the road and cant get home

 

You can take your original GM Delco-Remy distributor and 'convert' it to electronic ignition with a kit that fits mostly or entirely under the original cap. Or you can replace the entire distributor with an aftermarket electronic distributor. (if you do this, keep your original distributor with the car for the next owner just in case) Since you have a '74 I think you should still have a mechanical tach drive on your current GM distributor. So if you choose to replace it entirely - ensure that the replacement also has a tach drive setup. I do not believe a 1975 HEI distributor will have a tach drive provision but I think there are some aftermarket HEIs that might. Or you can change your tachometer in the dash to be electronic as well - but that increases the scope of this project considerably.

I have used a basic Pertronix I (not the II or III) retrofit kit for decades without problem in an original GM distributor. Since then another option came out called Breakerless SE - which on paper looks pretty nice (single wire and designed to work with stock coil's ~9V I think). And I think there are several other kits that can also go inside the GM distributor as well. Most any of these will require removing and disassembling the distributor to install the kit. When doing a retrofit kit - Sometimes I don't think people always get this right (and may cause failures?) but ensure you get the proper voltage to the ignition controller, coil and that the coil is matched to the electronic ignition.

Lars and SWCDuke have published good write-ups on setting up original distributors. There's at least one detailed write-up on how to rebuild an original GM points distributor and make it like (or better than) new. I don't have the links handy but search.

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QUESTION: Are you experiencing a specific problem that you expect converting to electronic ignition will fix? If so - points are also easily serviced and, when done right, should provide comparable performance on a typical Chevy V8. Now if there are general wear/age issues with the original distributor, that should also be addressed. But make a distinction between points and other underlying problems elsewhere with the distributor. Or are you expecting 'more power' from the conversion or planning other mods that might necessitate a stronger spark? As a stand alone change, in my limited experience, an electronically triggered ignition by itself will not create more engine power by itself.

DAILY DRIVER: I'm a little surprised and impressed anyone is still using a 74 as a "daily driver". That suggests 5+days/wk which could add up to 10k mi/yr. (I put 15k mi a year on my daily drive which is definitely NOT my old C3). Ordinarily I might suggest servicing the original distributor and at least initially retaining (new) points and just 'try it out'. But since you are putting serious annual miles on the car as a "daily driver" then I can see a strong use case for electronic ignition. In fact for a "daily driver", might just skip the electronic retrofit kit for or aftermarket distributors as well and consider a GM type HEI (w/ tach drive) distributor install where you gain the proven HEI design and serviceability of the GM HEI module. If you are piling the daily driver miles on any car - I don't think there's a match for the millions of miles HEI distributors have logged.

AC R45TS plugs or equivalent and a good set of wires. If you do consider sticking with points (and condenser) they are cheap and readily available. (NAPA Echlin CS786 for example).

 

The original pertronix unit had a problem with the magnets falling out of the ring they fixed the problem on the 2-3 units ..not to stick up for them cause I’m running a msd set up now. I hid the unit on the drivers inner fender accessible when I remove the egg crate I also used a black cap so it would not stick out like a sore thumb and looks kinda stock with the black wires also the only thing that really gives it away is the aluminum housing it was easy to install and went directly to the battery with a cut off switch for theft protection I have a push button on off hidden under the dash

 

Always starts, never quits. Been that way for years without any tuning required. I remember once having to borrow my wife's nail file to get the old points to work in a storage locker. Happens when the car is shut down and the points are left open in a hot, humid environment.

 

There's not an aftermarket "electronic conversion" that will outperform your stock points distributor, set up with a good set of points and with a good advance curve in a street application. Why would you want to change it over? You gain absolutely nothing. See my post here:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...t-and-ign.html
Lars

 

Really. Never heard of that. And I spent the 1970's in GM dealer parts and service departments. In the northeast corner of Illinois. Where it gets hot and humid in the summer.

 

I've been in this hobby and business for 50 years, including working at GM dealerships in the 1970's and teaching at the GM Training Center. I've never heard of such a thing, and there's no way that can happen.

 

Points work by creating a ground path for electricity. So you guys are saying that it's not possible for points to get a film of corrosion on there contact surfaces and then not have a good ground?
Bullshit gentlemen.
Back in the day when most motorcycles had points. It was very common to have to file points after sitting in storage. Because until you did, they didn't connect/ground. And you had no spark. You simply cleaned the points. Got your connection to ground back and the bike ran again.
Points can and do definitely get corrosion on them.

 

Not sure why anyone would want to run points because there are multiple impulse conversion that can eliminate points. Not that they won’t work but you can get points bounce and burnt points. Just a lot more maintenance.

 

I cant fix what's not broken

 

Thank you. I had to do it back in the 60s when working on cars and motorcycles. Not often. My middle name may be Lars but I certainly do not know what he does.