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just keep bench racing.......or you can send me or Restorod79 a set next spring and we'll test them for you.
When i was 15 i was out on the rural dirt roads playing dukes of hazard. It does improve car handling skills.
I don't have to bench race gt4 has c3's
I do dukes of hazard in the feidl next to our shop. Then I grenaded the rear end. It wasn;t a dirt road though mostly a feild and mud pit. Just drive as fast as you can across it and sldie sideways and hit huge puddles and ruts lol.
We also have a mud truck with 40 inch tires but it isn't as fun as sliding, donut's etc. And I need to make brackets for the leather cadillac 9 way seats that we got from the junkyard.
Last edited by Yellow73SB; Nov 21, 2006 at 04:19 PM.
I've ordered up 4 Aero Series 52 wheels in 15x8. I've got to give the racing tires a try before I start shelling out $200+ for competition rubber. Besides, I was able to get four wheels and a pair of G-Force shoes, plus shipping, for less than ONE SSR or Motegi wheel! Hey, at the end of the day they're all black from brakedust anyway!
Also, I see that Tirerack is advertising Hoosier R6s in 275/50ZR-15 and 245/50ZR-15. I'll try to have four of each mounted up for this coming April. Let's see--- also a full cage, 5-speed tranny, $700 suit, rack and pinion, BIG wing on the back................
Dear Santa,
I know I haven't been very.................................... .......
Those Hoosier R9's look pretty good but a bit pricey. I like that fact that they offer the 275/50ZR-15 and also 275 and 295's in 17's. I may have to get a set of those.
I wouldn't bother going with the 275's on anything less than 10" wheels. The 245's work very nicely on 8's though. Try to get at least 2 degrees of negative camber up front if you go with the Radials.
I wouldn't bother going with the 275's on anything less than 10" wheels. The 245's work very nicely on 8's though. Try to get at least 2 degrees of negative camber up front if you go with the Radials.
245s are not going to allow you to be competetive. Many vettes are running the 315s all around. That's the thing about it. Enough is NEVER enough. I'm just talking weekend yahoos trying to win $5 plastic trophies. Its ridiculous. The Egos do get out of control too.
Last edited by turtlevette; Nov 22, 2006 at 11:23 AM.
I'm using the black soft 17x9 with a 5" backspace. Running 275/40s.
Any problems with fitment/ clearances? Any mods you've had to make to get them to fit?
After I deal with the tranny "issue", I'll be looking at wheels & tires, so I'd like to start thinking ahead. Any recommendations for a mostly street driven car? I'm not into fancy-a$$ wheels, but functional ones, and my tires have to be able to cross the RR tracks without hitting the fenders, etc. I'd like to reduce unsprung weight, but compromises with $$ (and safety) are to be expected.
(Apologies if this is a rehash, but I've only recently gotten to this point and the "search" is endless and confusing on this subject)
Any problems with fitment/ clearances? Any mods you've had to make to get them to fit?
After I deal with the tranny "issue", I'll be looking at wheels & tires, so I'd like to start thinking ahead. Any recommendations for a mostly street driven car? I'm not into fancy-a$$ wheels, but functional ones, and my tires have to be able to cross the RR tracks without hitting the fenders, etc. I'd like to reduce unsprung weight, but compromises with $$ (and safety) are to be expected.
(Apologies if this is a rehash, but I've only recently gotten to this point and the "search" is endless and confusing on this subject)
Thanks, John
John,
When you get some time, read this whole thread. All the answers are in there and much much more. I suggest anyone getting involved in this sport print this thread out for reference.
P.S. I used to live in Loveland in the neighborhood with the private pond catty corner from HP. I do miss driving in the mountains.
Will do....
Cool that you know Loveland--most folks think it's on top of the mountain above the tunnel. And you understand the variety of driving & conditions I'm trying to build for.
I'll do my homework.
Two years ago at the SCCA Solo Nationals Rita Wilsy kicked our butts with a C-4 that looked to be on rails. I was told by her co-driver that they run about 5/8 inch rear toe in. So I tried it on my 72. I run 1/2 inch and it is now very difficult to get the rear to hang out. I also do not run a rear sway bar, but have dual adjustable Penski shocks on the rear. I have a friend that also tried this on his 03 Z06. Same thing but he ended up with a bit too much understeer. I would believe this to be a bit high for high speed road racing, but I would try 1/4 inch if I were you.
Two years ago at the SCCA Solo Nationals Rita Wilsy kicked our butts with a C-4 that looked to be on rails. I was told by her co-driver that they run about 5/8 inch rear toe in. So I tried it on my 72. I run 1/2 inch and it is now very difficult to get the rear to hang out. I also do not run a rear sway bar, but have dual adjustable Penski shocks on the rear. I have a friend that also tried this on his 03 Z06. Same thing but he ended up with a bit too much understeer. I would believe this to be a bit high for high speed road racing, but I would try 1/4 inch if I were you.
Jim, does the rear ride height affect the toe adjustment range? Right now my rear sits very low, and I'm maxed out with my rear toe in but I think I could only get about 1/8" total.
Two years ago at the SCCA Solo Nationals Rita Wilsy kicked our butts with a C-4 that looked to be on rails. I was told by her co-driver that they run about 5/8 inch rear toe in. So I tried it on my 72. I run 1/2 inch and it is now very difficult to get the rear to hang out. I also do not run a rear sway bar, but have dual adjustable Penski shocks on the rear. I have a friend that also tried this on his 03 Z06. Same thing but he ended up with a bit too much understeer. I would believe this to be a bit high for high speed road racing, but I would try 1/4 inch if I were you.
I read about doing something similar in an article about Honda's mid engine sports car (can't remember its name). They run alot of toe-in in the rear when driving the cars hard due to them having a similar toe-out issue as our C3's. The only major draw back is horrible tire wear due to the aggressive toe-in setting.
I'm only running about 1/32" toe-in in the rear and was thinking about increasing it. When I was at an event this year (just for fun, not an actual race), I noticed that the outside of my rear tires where the tread wraps over onto the sideway was slightly worn even at 40 psi. Regretfully its getting pretty cold around here, so I won't be able to due anymore suspension tuning for a few months.
Last edited by Jason Staley; Nov 22, 2006 at 05:47 PM.
Jim, does the rear ride height affect the toe adjustment range? Right now my rear sits very low, and I'm maxed out with my rear toe in but I think I could only get about 1/8" total.
Thanks
Chris
Shimming behind the flange would give more toe-in or slightly bending the trailing arm. Or a slightly longer half shaft?
[QUOTE=69autoXr]Jim, does the rear ride height affect the toe adjustment range? Right now my rear sits very low, and I'm maxed out with my rear toe in but I think I could only get about 1/8" total.
I wouldn't think so. Of course you know that toe is adjusted by the shims at the front of the trailing arms.
I have 10 inch bolts to lower the rear and have a lot more toe adjustment.
Jim, PM'd you earlier, Pit Stop USA doesn't have anything in stock for wheels right now. I'm going to spend the next few months putting together everything we've talked about above. I can see we're gonna need wets and dries, fronts, fat rears, spares, and maybe even blizzaks! I've got to get info on what Nascar is getting from Goodyear for places like Sears Point and the Glen. We're going to need something to do between shovelling snow and scraping ice!!
BTW- I think I'm gonna add cats to my dual exhaust. I forgot how much 1970s cars stink!!
Jim, does the rear ride height affect the toe adjustment range? Right now my rear sits very low, and I'm maxed out with my rear toe in but I think I could only get about 1/8" total.
I wouldn't think so. Of course you know that toe is adjusted by the shims at the front of the trailing arms.
I have 10 inch bolts to lower the rear and have a lot more toe adjustment.
Yes, I know that rear toe is adjusted with shims, I've got no shims on the inboard sides of the trailing arms, and only get about 1/8" toe in.
I was mainly thinking of the bump steer curve in the rear, wondering that if the rear is too low maybe it affects how much toe-in can be achieved.