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I run a Holley. What model do you have? I'm running a BG Demon 650 with mechanical secondaries.
Does your carb have center hung floats? Yeah, I have the drag racing floats in the secondaries with jet extensions.
Do you have the problem after braking, or just mid corner? It's usually as I am coming out of the corner.
Originally Posted by gkull
... I talked to a race carb shop and they sold me the new NASCAR longer needle and seats that are anti-foaming and I installed the old drag racing idea jet extensions in my rear bowls. He also told me to run the fuel at under mid sight glass level.
Are the NASCAR needle sold by Holley or someone else?
The other potential problem is: As you start exceeding one "G" turns fuel can slosh out the bowl vents. So you can run a tube from front to rear vent with a "T" in the middle to the open air. Then any fuel slosh won't give you that instant rich. I will have to try that. I am starting to corner at ~0.9 g's with spikes up to 1.1 g's so it might be time for this modification.
I run 5 psi fuel pressure. That's about the same pressure as I am running with my Demon.
Thanks for the ideas guys. I just like carb's and I really don't want to spend the money on FI right now, because I need other things like a roll bar & new seats. Hopefully, I can keep this carb working for me a while longer.
BG sells center-hung "slosh control floats" (#120000) designed for road racing use...
Thanks, I knew I had seen them some where. I just couldn't find them on BG's website. Searched around for a while tonight and found my BG catalog and there they were . Got to get a couple of these on order this winter .
From: All humans are vermin in the eyes of Guru VA
Cruise-In IV Veteran
Cruise-In V Veteran
Originally Posted by gkull
I had a similar problem with my demon 750. Kind of an instantaneous hiccup on uphill tight turns with WOT. I talked to a race carb shop and they sold me the new NASCAR longer needle and seats that are anti-foaming and I installed the old drag racing idea jet extensions in my rear bowls. He also told me to run the fuel at under mid sight glass level.
The other potential problem is: As you start exceeding one "G" turns fuel can slosh out the bowl vents. So you can run a tube from front to rear vent with a "T" in the middle to the open air. Then any fuel slosh won't give you that instant rich.
Yeah, I always liked BG products. A bit more expensive than Holley but I've always had good luck with them. I have a Gold Claw on my Cutlass and a Demon on my 76. Both carb's have worked great for me so far ............ I just purchased two of their 'road racing' floats from Jegs this morning. I'm going to try and wire in an air/fuel ratio for next year and patch it into my data system to help determine what the problem is and to see just how lean/rich I'm running at different points.
I guess its the just the fabricator / mech. engineer in me that likes to see just how fast I can make older cars run. I don't see it as a chore to up keep or improve, but a challenge and a hobby. My cars are a bit rough around the edges, but I still have gotten awards at local car shows so they're not that bad . I use the Cutlass now just for drag racing and local cruises, but it has been down a couple years while I have been concentrating on other things.
I like playing with the tuning of the engine and the suspension, rather than buying a pre-engineered one from GM for big $$$'s with all the electronic helpers. If you screw up in a C3, it lets you know it in a big way (usually a nice 180 spin and off the inside of the corner).
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by Jason Staley
I guess its the just the fabricator / mech. engineer in me that likes to see just how fast I can make older cars run. I don't see it as a chore to up keep or improve, but a challenge and a hobby. ...............................
I like playing with the tuning of the engine and the suspension, rather than buying a pre-engineered one from GM for big $$$'s with all the electronic helpers. If you screw up in a C3, it lets you know it in a big way (usually a nice 180 spin and off the inside of the corner).
.................
Jason, I have to agree with you 100%. I find I get more enjoyment out of fabicating/modifying something than writing a big check for a new car.
I got the C4 suspension finished under the '69 last spring (pulling about 150 pounds of weight out of the car in the process). I no longer have the rear twitchiness issues common with the old suspension geometry, and the car handling is very predictable. The car currently weighs 3015 pounds with an eighth of a tank of fuel and no driver, moving up to 3050 pounds when I get time to get the rear bumpers and spare tire bucket bolted back on. (I need to do a minor tweak to the bucket to clear the rear toe bracket.)
Just got my pistons this week for my ZL1 build. With this engine I should be able to get the car weight down to 2900 pounds, while still looking completely stock (The interior is stock and complete.)
My car is also a bit rough around the edges. I've been too busy with the fabrication activities to do any waxing.
That course you're on is flat as a pancake. Running a course with elevation changes and banking really lets you get some G forces going. It looks really safe though. Most of the courses i run have a lot of concrete barriers and a few guys have had bad accidents hitting them. No injuries but totalled cars.
Jason, I think its great you campain a C3. I have for 10 years and i'm not saying i'm quitting but i'm definitely getting weary. You're a younger guy with more energy. I guess i understand now why a lot of older guys just buy new cars. I need a maintenance crew.
72 Ray has long since changed to running a mustang. I don't know of anyone who has done this long term that is still doing it.
Last edited by turtlevette; Nov 20, 2009 at 10:12 AM.
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by turtlevette
That course you're on is flat as a pancake. Running a course with elevation changes and banking really lets you get some G forces going. It looks really safe though. Most of the courses i run have a lot of concrete barriers and a few guys have had bad accidents hitting them. No injuries but totalled cars.
..................
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It's the only digital pictures I have (My wife took them). In the last twenty years, I can probably count on one hand the number of times where people joined me at any of the tracks. Most of the time I went solo.
I've got tons of miles at Mid-Ohio (in my Corvettes, my Yamaha R1, and in Formula Fords), so I'm familiar with elevation changes and concrete/Armco barriers.
The other tracks I've run (Putnam Park, Gingerman, and Nelson Ledges) have varying amounts of either elevation changes or non-compliant barriers in fast sections. I got my first ambulance ride at Putnam Park in 2000 after messing up at a turn that seems to incorporate a decreasing radius and an elevation change, so I have a deep respect for what can happen if you screw up.
ps: I just looked closely at Jason's avatar. That looks like the corner I screwed up at (Putnam Park).
Last edited by 69427; Nov 20, 2009 at 11:26 AM.
Reason: Added postscript content.
I like playing with the tuning of the engine and the suspension, rather than buying a pre-engineered one from GM for big $$$'s with all the electronic helpers. If you screw up in a C3, it lets you know it in a big way (usually a nice 180 spin and off the inside of the corner).
Jason the Race Carb Shop moved so I have to find him and exactly what those longer needle and seats are. That Morroso bowl extension and anti-slosh looks like a good idea.
From speed direct I just ordered 650# front springs for my QA-1 dual adjust front semi coil overs. I was getting to much front end dive with the 550#
If it's elevation changes you enjoy, you need to make at least one trip to Grattan, MI in your life time.
Grattan is a blast, kind of like a roller coaster. I need to get back there, it's been a while. Next time hopefully my gearing will be a little better suited to the length of the straight.
Jason the Race Carb Shop moved so I have to find him and exactly what those longer needle and seats are. That Morroso bowl extension and anti-slosh looks like a good idea.
Are you using power rack steering?
I got the anti-slosh floats in the mail today. I'm looking into the Moroso bowl extensions, but I'm not sure yet if they will work with the Demon casting (it's slightly different than a Holley).
I'm still using the factory steering ... just rebuilt and adjusted fairly tight. I actually like the steering and don't really want a faster steering ratio. (I would if I autocrossed more though)
Here's the local track that is 32 miles from my house. Not much elevation change, but nothing hardly to hit either. 10 turns in 1.8 miles.