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Old Jun 8, 2006 | 10:09 PM
  #141  
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How can I do a leak test?
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Old Jun 8, 2006 | 10:10 PM
  #142  
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Do you have a compressor?
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Old Jun 8, 2006 | 10:11 PM
  #143  
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Yup 22 gal 155 psi 7 cfm@ 90
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Old Jun 8, 2006 | 10:14 PM
  #144  
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Originally Posted by JustinD
Yup
An easy to do one cyl is bring #1 up on top dead timing mark on 0 remove #1 plug take your air hose and blow in not too much engine might roll over watch hands .If you hear air coming out carb or exhaust then you have a problem.---With both valves closed cyl should hold air.
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Old Jun 8, 2006 | 10:16 PM
  #145  
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How many psi should I use?
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Old Jun 8, 2006 | 10:17 PM
  #146  
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Originally Posted by JustinD
How many psi should I use?
For this test just use about 25--I dont want you to push the piston down and spin the engine
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Old Jun 8, 2006 | 10:18 PM
  #147  
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Originally Posted by JustinD
How many psi should I use?
For this test just use about 25--I dont want you to push the piston down and spin the engine
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Old Jun 8, 2006 | 10:26 PM
  #148  
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I didn't hear any comming up throught the carb. How should I keep the air in there? The hose from my compresion tester?
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Old Jun 8, 2006 | 10:28 PM
  #149  
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Originally Posted by JustinD
I didn't hear any comming up throught the carb. How should I keep the air in there? The hose from my compresion tester?
Yes if you can connect it.
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Old Jun 8, 2006 | 10:29 PM
  #150  
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I put my compresion tester hose on and pushed the air chuck tight onto the end and gave it full 25 psi I didn't have any leaks and the piston didn't move at all.
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Old Jun 8, 2006 | 10:32 PM
  #151  
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Originally Posted by JustinD
I put my compresion tester hose on and pushed the air chuck tight onto the end and gave it full 25 psi I didn't have any leaks and the piston didn't move at all.
Turn it up to about 50 and try again if it doesnt leak then the valves are holding.
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Old Jun 8, 2006 | 10:37 PM
  #152  
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Well, my valves must be holding because with 50 psi I don't hear any air comming through the carb.
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Old Jun 8, 2006 | 10:38 PM
  #153  
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Originally Posted by JustinD
Well, my valves must be holding because with 50 psi I don't hear any air comming through the carb.
None through the exhaust either right?
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Old Jun 8, 2006 | 10:39 PM
  #154  
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I didn't hear any hissing besides a tiny bit from my airhose because I couldn't get a good seal between the air chuck and the tube at 50 psi. By I didn't hear any inside the cylinder.
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Old Jun 8, 2006 | 10:42 PM
  #155  
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Originally Posted by JustinD
I didn't hear any hissing besides a tiny bit from my airhose because I couldn't get a good seal between the air chuck and the tube at 50 psi. By I didn't hear any inside the cylinder.
Thats good but that shot my thinking down---back to the drawing board---get your buddys vacumn gauge that will give us another piece to the puzzle
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Old Jun 8, 2006 | 10:46 PM
  #156  
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Ok, I'll do that. Hey man I can't thank you enough for taking the time to help me. It really means alot to me. I'll post back tommorow with the results of the vac test.
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Old Jun 8, 2006 | 10:48 PM
  #157  
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Originally Posted by JustinD
Ok, I'll do that. Hey man I can't thank you enough for taking the time to help me. It really means alot to me. I'll post back tommorow with the results of the vac test.
Your welcome= I just hope we can figure this out over a computer.Talk to you tomorrow.
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Old Jun 9, 2006 | 12:48 AM
  #158  
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JustinD Have you made up any new cuss words yet?? try not to
pick up the FORD tune up tool ( hammer ) and beat it to death.
I don't think a vacuum leak will cause your engine to bacfkire up
the carb like it sounds like it is doing, but it hurts nothing to check
it out. What happens when you move your dist clockwise to retard it
does the backfiring up through the carb lesson?? Some-how some-where
you must be to far advanced. Is there any chance when you put the
crank gear at 12 oclock and the cam gear at 12 that you may have got
the cam gear one tooth to the right, that would cause your cam to be
advanced. My uncle a long time ago put a motor together this way and it
would start and run, my father fiqured out what he had done and fixed it.
Its just food for thought.

Last edited by Little Mouse; Jun 9, 2006 at 02:47 AM.
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Old Jun 9, 2006 | 08:36 AM
  #159  
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Originally Posted by Little Mouse
JustinD Have you made up any new cuss words yet?? try not to
pick up the FORD tune up tool ( hammer ) and beat it to death.
I don't think a vacuum leak will cause your engine to bacfkire up
the carb like it sounds like it is doing, but it hurts nothing to check
it out. What happens when you move your dist clockwise to retard it
does the backfiring up through the carb lesson?? Some-how some-where
you must be to far advanced. Is there any chance when you put the
crank gear at 12 oclock and the cam gear at 12 that you may have got
the cam gear one tooth to the right, that would cause your cam to be
advanced. My uncle a long time ago put a motor together this way and it
would start and run, my father fiqured out what he had done and fixed it.
Its just food for thought.
We have been "assuming" (I know "*** out of you and me")that Justin's timing marks are correct.But there are 2 variables the mark on the dampener and the scale on the cover.Dampeners slip,keys shear and there are diff.covers with scales in diff. locations.I think your right Little Mouse we should back off the timing until it runs better(ignore marks for now)Justin did you establish true TDC when you were "degreeing cam"?This is important and is the basis for all timing procedures.I have had nightmares about this!!! This diagnosis by computer is worse than assembling a carburetor blindfolded and 1 hand tied behind your back.Moving on to cam at 12 and 12---Justin did you rotate the crank 2 turns and see the marks come back to exactly 12 and 12?To check to see if this is correct without removing timing chain cover is tough but is possible.OK if we "assume" (I know dont say it)everthing inside is correct then we have to work on fuel delivery and ignition problems but 1 thing at a time.Back that timing up and let us know what happens.

Last edited by ...Roger...; Jun 9, 2006 at 08:41 AM.
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Old Jun 9, 2006 | 09:27 AM
  #160  
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I had a cracked plug once that would cause backfire up through the carb. Difficult to find. Engine idled and ran smooth with an occasional backfire through the carb. Finally pulled all the plugs and inspected with a magnifying glass and found one with a small crack in the insulator. Replaced the plug and all was well. Something to think about.
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