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Guldstrand's website only lists one part number for their bump steer blocks. I don't see a distintion between a "street" or "race" version. Is there something I'm missing?
I'm planning on swapping in some Daytona front coils and at the same time adding poly control arm bushings and the bump steer blocks and new tie rod ends. Anybody know who's tie rod ends VBP sells? I'll get everything in one order if they're a good brand.
Next up: Guldstrand heim jointed sway bar links.$$$
Called Guldstrand today, the only version of the bump steer blocks available anymore is the race version. Although the person I spoke with said their parts person was MIA-I took that to mean that any order would take a long time to get, so I ordered VBP's setup. Although their information person couldn't give me any info on whether or not I'd have to drill out the tapered holes, so I'll have to call back tomorrow and speak with someone who knows.
From: Formerly from the Great White North but now residing in the Desert Southwest NM (The Land of Dis-Enchantment?)
Originally Posted by 69autoXr
Called Guldstrand today, the only version of the bump steer blocks available anymore is the race version. Although the person I spoke with said their parts person was MIA-I took that to mean that any order would take a long time to get, so I ordered VBP's setup. Although their information person couldn't give me any info on whether or not I'd have to drill out the tapered holes, so I'll have to call back tomorrow and speak with someone who knows.
Chris,
I got VBP's kit two months ago and did not have to drill out the tapered holes. Mine's a '73 but shouldn't make a difference. Talk to Gary.
After talking to staff at Gulstrands and getting conflicting info and hearing about inconsistant info from Vette Brakes on this thread I reluctantly decided to take the plunge and phone Guldstrands and ask for Dick. I know he is busy and doesn't need to talk on the phone to everyone about every part - thats why he has staff. In this case it was time to get the answer. He knew right away, he said no drilling of the steering arms was required, mount the blocks to the steering arms "on the car". I told him about our on-line discussion and if he were to give me part #'s for the blocks and adjusting sleeves he may get several orders in the next couple of days if I were to post the info on this thread. I am to call him back in a couple of hours and he will have it all the #'s together for me. I will post agian later once I have talked to him.
Frank.
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Unlike a lot of executives, Dick certainly doesn't seem to be allergic to working. I called a few weeks back looking for a couple of items that used to be in Guldstrand's catalog which weren't listed on the site, and he personally went scrounging to see what he could find for me.
After talking to staff at Gulstrands and getting conflicting info and hearing about inconsistant info from Vette Brakes on this thread I reluctantly decided to take the plunge and phone Guldstrands and ask for Dick. I know he is busy and doesn't need to talk on the phone to everyone about every part - thats why he has staff. In this case it was time to get the answer. He knew right away, he said no drilling of the steering arms was required, mount the blocks to the steering arms "on the car". I told him about our on-line discussion and if he were to give me part #'s for the blocks and adjusting sleeves he may get several orders in the next couple of days if I were to post the info on this thread. I am to call him back in a couple of hours and he will have it all the #'s together for me. I will post agian later once I have talked to him.
Frank.
I already ordered mine from VBP; still waiting to hear back from Gary on whether or not the tapers need to be drilled this month. Probably I won't hear back from him today.
However I believe I am all set for my front end make-over, parts are on their way. I have the Daytona's already, and I got poly bushings, the bump steer kit, new tie rods, and figured while it's apart it would probably be a good idea to replace the ball joints too, it's been almost ten years. My main goal for the year is to improve the suspension geometry; the rear is set way low right now so I'll be experimenting with raising it up to get in a better toe control range. We'll see how it goes. I'm so used to driving it with the bad geometry it'll probably take some time to learn how to drive it again.
Last edited by 69autoXr; Mar 18, 2008 at 02:59 PM.
From: Formerly from the Great White North but now residing in the Desert Southwest NM (The Land of Dis-Enchantment?)
Sounds like we're all going to have the same "secret" formula...looks like I'm going to have to find a new edge. Maybe a really big rear swaybar...hmmm Maybe we should just start a "spec" class for modified C-3's...
Gonna try something different...seems most of the top national C3 Solo guys have used poly successfully. Most of the guys around here, guys I grew up looking up to, swear by the rubber bushings. I'm gonna give them a shot, and form my own opinion.
Sounds like we're all going to have the same "secret" formula...looks like I'm going to have to find a new edge. Maybe a really big rear swaybar...hmmm Maybe we should just start a "spec" class for modified C-3's...
Maybe, but not necessarily. You guys with big ci engines may be able to make the bigger front springs work since you have that NOW throttle response...Danny had that throttle response because he had a 15lb clutch and flywheel assembly. Again, most of the local guys (a coupla former National Champs in C3's no less) swear by springs no bigger than 550's and small-ish front bars. I'm just trying something new this year. I'm afraid my car will be so stiff in front it'll just be a push-pig around the corners.