To each his own...what works for you doesn't work for me...Until I moved out west, I ,too, autocrossed in the midwest in a Rippe built C-4 and won my share. The F-41 used a skinny little 7/16" bar which I will use on a tight course. I'm running much wider race tires and I'm sure my driving style is much different. Go with what works for you

 

Got mine (spreader bar) from Guldstrand, along with lots of other bits.

 

You posted earlier hiway and back road .If you want 200+ in these circumstances check in with Michel Jackson .He already ready lives in Never land.

 

When I first got my car it had the 7/8 fr bar and a 7/16 rr. The oversteer was dangerous at highway speed so I removed it. Problem solved. I could not belive that a wimpy bar like that would have any effect at all but it sure does! Now I have added a 1 1/4 bar to the front and re-installed the rear. All is well now in that department. I have always thought Vette brake really should sell they're monster rear bars with a warning.
Front spoilers are a must have for anything over 60mph in a c3, I know that for a fact, so I added one to my c2. I used a 1st gen Camaro spoiler. It's a little wide but unoticable unless someone points it out. It's a pain in the *** to work around [I'm a minimalist] but I wouldn't be with out it.
Does anyone know the difference between Gulstands and Vette brakes bump steer blocks? I am about to order a set. They may be an item one wants to consider for handling upgrades.
Frank

 

Guldstrand vs. VB&P bump steer blocks...

...the geometry is likely the same. VB&P's kit includes HD rods for just a few extra bucks. Either way, you'll have to drill the additional hole in the knuckle on '77 and up.

 

Socket head VS hex head bolts also

 

Frank,

The blocks are to placed the tie rods at a more level attitude so that toe and such don't change as the front wheels move vertically.

In the earlier cars, they had two holes in the steering arms, fast and slow ratio. When PS became a standard item, the hole for the slow ratio was filled.

The bump steer blocks bolt into both holes so if you have a later car, you need to drill the hole for the second mounting bolt.

Bob

 

I am going to SCCA Autocross my 1968 390HP Big Block convertible Vette this year for the first time. Anyone have a suggestion for suspension springs and sway bars? This is a 4 speed car with 4:11 rear end. Looking at changing it to a 3:70. Any thoughts?

Jim

 

Thanks fella's, Gustrand also can supply H.D. tie rod adjusting sleeves. Do I understand correctly that the existing tie rod holes in the steering arms must be drilled regardles to an oversize because they're tapered holes for tie rod studs, but need to be a straight hole for a bolt to install the blocks. Has anyone drilled to enlarge these "on the car"?

 

 

Except it's $140 for the blocks and tie rod sleeves from Guldstrand vs $100 for the same from VBP. I plan on contacting both and determining if their blocks are essentially the same, if so I'll get the VBP.

 

Jim,

When you say auto-cross I assume that you are talking about low speed events in parking lots and the like. Not high speed events on race tracks. Years ago that was the distinction. High speed events were called time trials or solo events. Auto-Crossing was on tighter, parking lots where the course was laid out with orange traffic cones. Courses were designed to give small, light wt. cars the advantage and to negate the horsepower of a larger GM car.

Just a couple of thoughts from an old auto-crosser. A BB car with an all iron motor will understeer like crazy. You need to work on getting the front to stick and the rear to loosen up a bit. An understeering car at a low speed auto-cross will not approach the FTD cars.

Here are a couple of ideas on how to do that. First,Install the next size smaller front bar if the rules will allow it. You could loosen the end links on the front stabalizer bar. That will delay its effect.

Put poly mounting bushings on the rear bar, that will stiffen it up some as well.

Adjustable shocks set full soft in front and full hard in the rear.

Play with tire pressures. Set the fronts lower than the rear. I think we used to run pressures up to 40 lbs in the rear to kill off the traction back there.

All the above techniques were an attenpt to get the front to stick and allow the rear to slide around a little. When you have the car balanced, you can use trailing throttle to get the rear to come around in the tighter corners. That way you are not plowing along (in understeer) waiting for the grip to return to the front so that you can get on the throttle.

3:70s might be better than 4:10 as you have an abundance of torque and you don't need more low gear to smoke the tires. 4:10s would work if you are always on real tight parking lot courses, you just have to develop an educated right foot!

Just my thoughts.

Bob

 

Yes I noticed that, that is why I am asking about differences. Let us know what you find out, I would like to support Dick, he probably developed that item.

 

This would be extremely tricky to do on the car, unless you had a lift & some sort of fixture to keep the drill at 90 degrees to the arm. I took my steering arms off and put them in a drill press. It's not as bad as it sounds, and took me two afternoons to do the job. Remove the brake caliper, rotor, and then 2 bolts .... arms are off .

Also, the bottom surface of the arms were not flat and I had to take a file/stone to them to get decent mounting surfaces for the blocks. I used a 5/8" drill for the two 5/8" bolts and then did the final fitting with a dremel & sanding drum. You have to drill out both holes so there is no taper left in the arms.

 

If you get the street version, on the pre-'77 cars you don't have to drill anything. If you get the race version, same geometry, bigger bolts, then you have to drill the holes larger.

 

I got both...first got Guldstrands but needed the tie-rod sleeves so I got the VBP kit. Blocks are physically the same. Only difference is G's are anodized gold and VBP's are black.

 

Just curious, where did you find some street versions that didn't require drilling? I could see where that would be really nice for a street only vette.

The black paint on VBP's is more for corrosion resistance until you put them on the car. The black paint comes off REAL EASY during the installation, and mine required repainting. No big deal, just thought I'd mention it.

 

[QUOTE=Jason Staley;1564568108]Just curious, where did you find some street versions that didn't require drilling? I could see where that would be really nice for a street only vette.



Both VBP and Guldstrands blocks use a bolt that fits the narrow taper. Guldstrands race version uses a bigger bolt and requires you to drill out the taper.

 

I wonder if VBP changed their's. I purchased mine from them a couple of years ago, and they used the larger bolts that required drilling out of the tapered holes.

 

If we already have HD tubes we probably don't need the tubes with the kit though right?


Guldstrands kit is only $90 not that 10 dollars really matters

http://www.guldstrand.com/scripts/pr...?idproduct=117

I also just found this pic

What kind of block is this?