handling
Pro
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 655
Likes: 0
From: Sarasota Fl
Maybe, but not necessarily. You guys with big ci engines may be able to make the bigger front springs work since you have that NOW throttle response...Danny had that throttle response because he had a 15lb clutch and flywheel assembly. Again, most of the local guys (a coupla former National Champs in C3's no less) swear by springs no bigger than 550's and small-ish front bars. I'm just trying something new this year. I'm afraid my car will be so stiff in front it'll just be a push-pig around the corners.
I'll probably throw on a 3/4 front sway bar and see what happens.
Why doesn't anyone run solid bushings? is that road race only?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,247
Likes: 210
From: Detroit MI
One guy on here-SolidLT-1 from California-makes his own bushings from delrin. I don't have the materials or ability to make any otherwise I would probably try them. Poly is good enough for me in my mind.
Where are you from? What year car? You have been posting in the handling and performance threads, but just little snippets-what's your background? Autocross only, track, etc? We're all friendly here...
Where are you from? What year car? You have been posting in the handling and performance threads, but just little snippets-what's your background? Autocross only, track, etc? We're all friendly here...
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 2,225
Likes: 44
From: Penticton B.C. Canada
As mentioned earlier I will post here my results of conversations with Guldstrands......... When I called back this aft, Dick transferred me to the office lady to finalise my order, he had it all figured out for me and had given it to her so I was unable to speak further with him.
The order I placed consists of a set of :
G01-017, Bump steer kit and the required shorter sleeves [9"]G01-113b, kit. I must confess that I am still a bit unsure. Last week I called, spoke to someone else and asked for an instruction sheet for this kit. It did require drilling the steering arms to 5/8. In today's conversation with Dick, his actual words were that they used a smaller dia bolt to match the smallest dia on the tapered hole so the blocks were attached more with a "Clamping Force". No machining or drilling required, mount them directly to the installed steering arm. Sounds o.k. If I have to drill the steering arms, no big deal...
Frank
The order I placed consists of a set of :
G01-017, Bump steer kit and the required shorter sleeves [9"]G01-113b, kit. I must confess that I am still a bit unsure. Last week I called, spoke to someone else and asked for an instruction sheet for this kit. It did require drilling the steering arms to 5/8. In today's conversation with Dick, his actual words were that they used a smaller dia bolt to match the smallest dia on the tapered hole so the blocks were attached more with a "Clamping Force". No machining or drilling required, mount them directly to the installed steering arm. Sounds o.k. If I have to drill the steering arms, no big deal...
Frank
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,478
Likes: 4
From: Formerly from the Great White North but now residing in the Desert Southwest NM (The Land of Dis-Enchantment?)
As mentioned earlier I will post here my results of conversations with Guldstrands......... When I called back this aft, Dick transferred me to the office lady to finalise my order, he had it all figured out for me and had given it to her so I was unable to speak further with him.
The order I placed consists of a set of :
G01-017, Bump steer kit and the required shorter sleeves [9"]G01-113b, kit. I must confess that I am still a bit unsure. Last week I called, spoke to someone else and asked for an instruction sheet for this kit. It did require drilling the steering arms to 5/8. In today's conversation with Dick, his actual words were that they used a smaller dia bolt to match the smallest dia on the tapered hole so the blocks were attached more with a "Clamping Force". No machining or drilling required, mount them directly to the installed steering arm. Sounds o.k. If I have to drill the steering arms, no big deal...
Frank
The order I placed consists of a set of :
G01-017, Bump steer kit and the required shorter sleeves [9"]G01-113b, kit. I must confess that I am still a bit unsure. Last week I called, spoke to someone else and asked for an instruction sheet for this kit. It did require drilling the steering arms to 5/8. In today's conversation with Dick, his actual words were that they used a smaller dia bolt to match the smallest dia on the tapered hole so the blocks were attached more with a "Clamping Force". No machining or drilling required, mount them directly to the installed steering arm. Sounds o.k. If I have to drill the steering arms, no big deal...
Frank
Like I said before, I bought both sets, Guldstrand and VBP, neither required drilling out the taper. Both require the use of the shorter tie rod sleeves. Come on fella's, believe in me. I wouldn't give you bad information or "steer" you wrong.
Seriously, Dave at Guldstrand told me that back in the day, the racer only part required drilling and the use of the 5/8" bolts.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,478
Likes: 4
From: Formerly from the Great White North but now residing in the Desert Southwest NM (The Land of Dis-Enchantment?)
A word of caution to anyone following this thread...The bumpsteer kits we've been talking about only help with a lowered car. They may actually increase bumpsteer affect if installed on a stock height vehicle.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 1,758
Likes: 4
From: Medford, Or
Buy a C5 or C6. The trailing arms are the weak link on C2, C3 and C4 Corvettes. GM have go to a A-Arm design on rear for C5 and C6. Makes a huge difference.
Changing the front camber with aftermarket A-arms will allow you to take advantage of your radial tires.
The trailing arms are the weak link on C2, C3 and C4 Corvettes. GM have go to a A-Arm design on rear for C5 and C6. Makes a huge difference.Changing the front camber with aftermarket A-arms will allow you to take advantage of your radial tires.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 2,225
Likes: 44
From: Penticton B.C. Canada
Like I said before, I bought both sets, Guldstrand and VBP, neither required drilling out the taper. Both require the use of the shorter tie rod sleeves. Come on fella's, believe in me. I wouldn't give you bad information or "steer" you wrong.
Seriously, Dave at Guldstrand told me that back in the day, the racer only part required drilling and the use of the 5/8" bolts.
Seriously, Dave at Guldstrand told me that back in the day, the racer only part required drilling and the use of the 5/8" bolts.
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Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,478
Likes: 4
From: Formerly from the Great White North but now residing in the Desert Southwest NM (The Land of Dis-Enchantment?)
I have a C-5 and my modified '73 will run circles around it, trailing arms and all.. After-market A-arms typically will increase camber and castor adjustability.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,478
Likes: 4
From: Formerly from the Great White North but now residing in the Desert Southwest NM (The Land of Dis-Enchantment?)
I use custom valved Bilsteins...others use Bilstein Sports, QA-1 and Koni adjustables. This is getting into pretty personal territory. Everyone, I'm sure has their favorites and are used to compliment their spring set-up.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,478
Likes: 4
From: Formerly from the Great White North but now residing in the Desert Southwest NM (The Land of Dis-Enchantment?)
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,478
Likes: 4
From: Formerly from the Great White North but now residing in the Desert Southwest NM (The Land of Dis-Enchantment?)
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,478
Likes: 4
From: Formerly from the Great White North but now residing in the Desert Southwest NM (The Land of Dis-Enchantment?)
Those are the same ones I'm using...