Buying a C3, Advice?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 109
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From: Fremont CA
Buying a C3, Advice?
Well, I've had a couple of C4's and a Couple of C5's, now I want to buy a C3. What can you guys tell me about what to look out for when I go looking? Any particularly good years or years to avoid? I am looking at 2 right now, a 78 and an 81. Any advice is welcome.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,274
Likes: 4,366
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi T,
There are MANY things to consider in buying a 68-82.
The first thing that comes to mind is the decision between a 68-72 car with chrome bumpers, a 73 with rubber front bumper and chrome rear, and 74-82 with rubber bumpers front and rear.
The next thing I'd consider is the drastic change in horsepower as the years go by.
These things may or may not matter to you.
Regards,
Alan
There are MANY things to consider in buying a 68-82.
The first thing that comes to mind is the decision between a 68-72 car with chrome bumpers, a 73 with rubber front bumper and chrome rear, and 74-82 with rubber bumpers front and rear.
The next thing I'd consider is the drastic change in horsepower as the years go by.
These things may or may not matter to you.
Regards,
Alan
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
The '78 is the basic mid-70's Corvette. The '82 is a bit more 'modern' with cross-fire injection (two throttle bodies and a computer) and 'jazzed-up' aero additions. If the injection system is working properly, you'll get much better gas mileage than with the stock Q-jet. I like the Q-jets and don't drive it enough to eat that much gas, but if you plan on driving it a lot, that will make a difference.
Ooops! Just re-read your thread and you said '81. Well, that is a Q-jet carbureted engine, but it does have some electronics on it and the carb. It is an "oddball" year. I think I'd stay away from the '81, if I were you.
Ooops! Just re-read your thread and you said '81. Well, that is a Q-jet carbureted engine, but it does have some electronics on it and the carb. It is an "oddball" year. I think I'd stay away from the '81, if I were you.
Last edited by 7T1vette; Oct 31, 2008 at 05:34 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,369
Likes: 12
From: wichita kansas
depends on what you want the car for. the 68-72 (and you could possibly include 73 in this category) are gonna be more expensive, but probably a better investment also. if you want performance, keep in mind that GM started de-tuning these cars in about 71', so the earlier cars are gonna have more "muscle". if you just want a nice driver, and don't want to spend alot, and don't expect alot of appreciation, the 74-82 models are great. perhaps they will catch fire in the market someday also. can't really go wrong as long as it says CORVETTE on it somewhere! rick
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 12,681
Likes: 3,134
From: Shamong, NJ
I prefer the 81 to the 78. Generally 81's are more refined with better resale value, more options and similar performance to the 78, unless the 78 has the optional L-82 engine. 81's & 82's built at Bowling Green have much better paint, body fit and overall build quality than 81 and earlier cars built in St. Louis.
Things to check on any 68-82 included rust in the frame, especially the boxed end under the door jams, were the trailing arms bolt to the frame. The trailing arm boxes themselves. The windshield posts and header are also prone to rusting, you can usually see the rust through the windshield at the base of the posts. If the posts are rusted out, it's about a $1,500 job to fix correctly. On 76-82's, you need to check the floor pans as these cars had steel floors that often are rusted out.
As far as mechanically, the most common problems are leaking brake calipers and power steering slave cylinders and control valves. Neither of these are a big deal to fix, or terribly expensive.
Things to check on any 68-82 included rust in the frame, especially the boxed end under the door jams, were the trailing arms bolt to the frame. The trailing arm boxes themselves. The windshield posts and header are also prone to rusting, you can usually see the rust through the windshield at the base of the posts. If the posts are rusted out, it's about a $1,500 job to fix correctly. On 76-82's, you need to check the floor pans as these cars had steel floors that often are rusted out.
As far as mechanically, the most common problems are leaking brake calipers and power steering slave cylinders and control valves. Neither of these are a big deal to fix, or terribly expensive.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,438
Likes: 41
From: Raleigh NC
St. Jude Donor '13-'14
There's been many a posts on this subject. Chstitans42 started a thread solely for people looking to buy a C3: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ight=buying+c3
More threads:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ight=buying+c3
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ight=buying+c3
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ight=buying+c3
And They all pretty much say the same thing.
More threads:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ight=buying+c3
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ight=buying+c3
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ight=buying+c3
And They all pretty much say the same thing.
Last edited by LeMans Pete; Oct 31, 2008 at 06:35 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 12,681
Likes: 3,134
From: Shamong, NJ
82's had the Cross-Fire injection, not 81's. Not a bad system, when it's running right. The only C3 with an opening "rear hatch" was the 82 with the Collector Edition package.
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Drifting
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,970
Likes: 45
From: Cameron Park CA
Hi thraka,
Since you live in Cali, you may want to consider that '75 and older Corvettes do not require smog inspections. This can be a big deal especially if you want to mod your engine, or even if you want it to run well.
Since you live in Cali, you may want to consider that '75 and older Corvettes do not require smog inspections. This can be a big deal especially if you want to mod your engine, or even if you want it to run well.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,465
Likes: 0
From: Orange Park Fl
'81s had a computer controlled Quadrajet.
By the way, I love my '81. I've been driving it every day for five years now and it still puts a smile on my face every time I get behind the wheel! My vote is for the '81
.
Pro
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 707
Likes: 31
From: Pitman NJ
Get the one that is in the best condition. Always check for rust before you buy.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,911
Likes: 2
From: gold coast queensland
if i could have any c3 i think i would go for a 70 or 71 and maybe a 72 ( really i want a 63-67) but i have an 81. i love the fact that it has more mod-cons and better cabin features than the earlier cars but you cant beat the chrome bumpers on the early 70 models. the 81 was a real pain in the *** for me to modify because of the computer that controls the carb , transmission and distributor but you might like to keep it the way it is since your in cali. after having c5,s and 4,s be ready to deal with doors that go clunk instead of clack and glass that doesnt seal up perfectly around the tops and aircon that isnt up to the same quality as climate control and handling that isnt as forgiving etc etc but when i get head turners ill put up with all that.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 3,407
Likes: 2
From: Carmichael CA
Just the usual...avoid cars that have oil coated engine compartments or obvious signs that they cleaned it up. Take a look at the interior and see if it's worn...C3 seats will most likely have a tear or two and the carpet faded and worn in spots, unless a previous owner replaced them. They are 30 year old cars, so unless it's been done already you will need to rebuild the suspension, engine, tranny, rear end, u-joints, rear spindles, clock, but the cigarette lighter probably works just fine.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,453
Likes: 976
From: RI, Now Franklin/Nashville TN
I like the body style better on the 80-82, but the 78 (I am biased) is basically a 70's vette with a more modern body. If you like the styling of the 80-82 and can live with an automatic, the 80 L-82 is the one to go for (it only came in an automatic and is pretty rare with only apprx 5,500 made). The suspensions are much softer in the 80-82 versus the gymkana suspended vettes prior to 80. I would avoid the 75-76 years if performance is important since these years have the most anemic engines including the L-82. The 73,74, 77-79 L-82 is pretty good on its own, comes with a 4spd if you want one, and responds very well to relatively minor engine tweaks for addiional power and drive ability, especially if don't have emissions inspection or you are exempt like most cars 25 years and older cars are in the Northeast. The 69-72 have the most power stock but cost more initially. The L-82 from the mid to late 70's will make close to the horsepower of the earlier SB with the deletion of the emissions hardware and basic modifications with a slightly lower compression ratio. I think it basically comes down to which style you like and how much money you need to spend based on the year if you want a SB. The big blocks are a different deal but all the C3's suspernison and brakes are essentially the same.
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 134
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From: Apple Valley MN
Uh, no. The '82 collectors edition had the hatch and all '82s had cross fire injection.
'81s had a computer controlled Quadrajet.
By the way, I love my '81. I've been driving it every day for five years now and it still puts a smile on my face every time I get behind the wheel! My vote is for the '81.
'81s had a computer controlled Quadrajet.
By the way, I love my '81. I've been driving it every day for five years now and it still puts a smile on my face every time I get behind the wheel! My vote is for the '81
.