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I've already done the LSX swap, but am now swapping for a 4l60e. What did you all do for the output yoke on the trans? Curious what I need to do for the driveshaft as my TH400 had a much larger yoke.
keep the 4L60e tailshaft and upgrade the drive line to a C4 Vette or 4th gen F-body.
Dan
Vetteworks
Misc info:
Interior - Dakota Digital C3 gauges, C7 seats, alpine amp, Kenwood reciever, focal speakers, Vintage Air AC
Suspension - tracdog built 3:55 rear diff, Van Steel front coilover with rear monospring
Other - "new-way" Miata headlamp motors, Miata motor used on wiper door,
Wheels - 17" PVD finished TT II's with Nitto 555 tires
HP / Torque - Dino tuned resulting in 445 RWHP (detuned from over 500 hp) & 465 ft# Torque
Fuel Pump/Lines/tank:Tanks.inc tank with walbro pump
Steering System: Borgenson
Misc info: Global West upper and lower controls arms, C5 Z06 aftermarket wheels with 2.5 inch spacers and Nitto tires, VBP fiberglass rear spring, Dakota Digital 54 pickup gauges, Vintage Air, 7 inch touch screen radio with backup camera, electric headlight conversion, custom LED side marker lights, Magna Flow 454 exhaust wit quad tips,
Fuel Pump/Lines/tank:Tanks.inc tank with walbro pump
Steering System: Borgenson
Misc info: Global West upper and lower controls arms, C5 Z06 aftermarket wheels with 2.5 inch spacers and Nitto tires, VBP fiberglass rear spring, Dakota Digital 54 pickup gauges, Vitage Air, 7 inch touch screen radio with backup camera, electric headlight conversion, custom LED side marker lights, C5 heated seats, Magna Flow 454 exhaust wit quad tips,
That looks great! It looks almost exactly like what I'm about to build now. Didn't think to aim the cold air intake downward. How did you get the 6L80 in there? I'm about to use a 4L80e and I was worried about fitment but from the feedback, it sounds like it will fit.
I have used this thread quite a bit for ideas on my build. Some of the trials and failures have centered around where to route and mount wiring, ECU, battery posts, etc. These things are hard to see in pics and difficult to describe in the threads. Where are you guys putting your ECU? Where did you mount the fuse and relay box(es)?
On the inner passenger fender I added remote battery posts b/c it's a PITA to charge the car, especially if the battery dies with the electric locks. My relay box for the fuel pump and fans was also on the passenger fender but now I want to move it as the A/C lines will make them impossible to get to easily. I have another fuse box on the drivers wheel well. The ECU is on the firewall beside the brake booster. How about the hydraulic clutch master cylinder? Brake booster upgrades? Remote injector coils? There is limited room in the engine bay and sharing these things should help future swaps more functional after assembled and maybe look less "thrown together".
Engine Accessories: Corvette configuration from 2012 Z06 with Holley A/C Bracket 20-134 and a Dorman 300-301 Power Steering Pump Pulley. Used 960K6 Belt from AutoZone
Waterpump: Stock/Aftermarket: Stock (modified)
Manual Throttle/Drive by Wire: Drive by wire.
Transmission: Tremec TKO 500 from Silver Sport Transmissions
Crossmember (stock/modified/aftermarket): Original
Exhaust Manifolds/Headers: Hedman Headers Mid-Length 45916 (Had to remove the bracket for the reserve lock cable near steering column and put a small dimple near the steering box for fitment)
Wiring Harness (modified stock/aftermarket): Modified stock from a 2012 Z06
Radiator/Fan: DeWitts C3 LS Swap Radiator w/ dual electric fans
Fuel Pump/Lines/tank: MuscleRods LS Swap Fuel Tank with 255lph fuel pump and Summit Racing AN6 PTFE Lines.
Steering System: Borgeson Box
Misc info: Used an 8 quart dry sump tank from an 06-08 z06. I had to create custom AN12 hoses to connect the dry sump tank to the engine.
...... Where are you guys putting your ECU? Where did you mount the fuse and relay box(es)?.....Mike
Thanks for resurrecting this thread. When I built my car seems like there were a lot of LS conversions. Very few went carbureted which is what I did. Not sure I would make the same decision again. There was however a useful forum on carb'd LS motors at the time which I used a lot.
My motor is a GM Crate LS376. A lot of the engine and accessory mounting is from suppliers that don't exist anymore but at the time there was a thriving aftermarket.
As to your question, my 69 is non-AC and there was a lot of room behind the passenger dash pad, so that is where I put everything. I cut the starter battery lead short, brought it to a post through the firewall and then jumpered it to a post back out through the firewall to the starter. That gave me +12 supply voltage inside which I supplied to another fuse box for all the stuff that got added.
This picture is from early on when I was figuring out what went where. I have since put proper connectors on everything and tucked it away under the pad.
Here's an early picture of the battery cable through the firewall.
Thanks for resurrecting this thread. When I built my car seems like there were a lot of LS conversions. Very few went carbureted which is what I did. Not sure I would make the same decision again. There was however a useful forum on carb'd LS motors at the time which I used a lot.
My motor is a GM Crate LS376. A lot of the engine and accessory mounting is from suppliers that don't exist anymore but at the time there was a thriving aftermarket.
As to your question, my 69 is non-AC and there was a lot of room behind the passenger dash pad, so that is where I put everything. I cut the starter battery lead short, brought it through the firewall and then back out through the firewall to the starter. That gave me +12 supply voltage which I supplied to another fuse box for all the stuff that got added.
This picture is from early on when I was figuring out what went where. I have since put proper connectors on everything and tucked it away under the pad.
Here's an early picture of the battery cable through the firewall. There are equivalent posts on the inside to the fuse box and from that to everything else.
Sure seems like it would be a ***** fuka to get to your electronics if needed just saying .
Sure seems like it would be a ***** fuka to get to your electronics if needed just saying .
The passenger dash pad comes off with a phillips screwdriver. It's a "***** fuka" to get to any wiring on these cars. Every wire is color coded and labelled with its function. We do what we can.
The passenger dash pad comes off with a phillips screwdriver. It's a "***** fuka" to get to any wiring on these cars. Every wire is color coded and labelled with its function. We do what we can.
