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Just imagine an 18" long [forest] green 18 ga. wire with a male Packard connector on one end and a brass 1/4" spade lug on the other. Then about 3-4" from the end with the spade lug, there is another (identical) spade lug wired in at that point. It would be like you stripped some insulation off the wire at that location, but did not cut the wire; then you would double the bare wire section back on it's self and solder that bare wire into the second spade connector. Those two connectors get hooked to the 2 pins on the TCS temp switch and the male Packard connector gets inserted in the female connector on the firewall (green) wire. You can find a small roll of green 18 ga. wire and the connectors at about any good car parts store to make one up.
Does that idle solenoid also increase the idle when the a/c is turned on? I currently don't have the solenoid on my '71, but when I turn on my a/c, the engine drops about 300 rpm. I'm wondering if that's why it's happening. Is this possible?
Does that idle solenoid also increase the idle when the a/c is turned on? I currently don't have the solenoid on my '71, but when I turn on my a/c, the engine drops about 300 rpm. I'm wondering if that's why it's happening. Is this possible?
Yes, according to the NCRS article page 6 it served that function as well.
I've never heard of this which leads me to a question. It appears that the solenoid is mounted to the carb. I am not using the original carb and do not plan on putting it back on... ever. I believe I know some of the parts and relays that include this, but can someone tell me exactly what can be removed of this system without affecting anything else? I do not have A/C.
If I'm not using it, I just assume clean up my engine compartment a bit.
You can just remove all of it without negatively affecting anything but idle/low speed emissions level. Of course, if you live in a state that requires emissions inspection, the inspectors will expect to see all of that 'stuff' on the car.
You can just remove all of it without negatively affecting anything but idle/low speed emissions level. Of course, if you live in a state that requires emissions inspection, the inspectors will expect to see all of that 'stuff' on the car.
So if I understand correctly, there is a sensor with a "V" shaped plug on the passenger side head, another sensor to the tranny with a single wire, and then a relay. First of all, any parts I'm missing excluding the solenoid on the carb? Second, where's the relay? Is it on the firewall, and if so, where?
Hi 71S,
The parts to this system are the solenoid and bracket on the carburetor (which is already gone), the wire running to the solenoid along the drivers side valve cover can be rolled up and tucked into the harness at the firewall, the jumper wire for the temperature sensor on the passenger side can be unplugged from the harness, but the sensor remains in the block and finally a rubber line can be run directly to the carb from the distributor can for the advance instead of running to the solenoid and then back to the carburetor.
There are 2 delay timers on the firewall to the left of the wiper motor that most people leave in place.
It cleans the top of the engine up a little but not too much.
Regards,
Alan
Sorry for the repeat of 7T1's and Duke's info , I'm a slow typist!
You can just remove all of it without negatively affecting anything but idle/low speed emissions level. Of course, if you live in a state that requires emissions inspection, the inspectors will expect to see all of that 'stuff' on the car.
Would removing all this cause a rough idle? I ask because I have a '71, that I think has had it removed, and I have a rough idle I cant track down.
Thanks
Would removing all this cause a rough idle? I ask because I have a '71, that I think has had it removed, and I have a rough idle I cant track down.
Thanks
If the vacuum port on the carburetor that was formerly used by the CEC is not capped it constitutes a vacuum leak and vacuum leaks can cause rough idle.
As can bad timing, fouled plugs, cracked distributor cap, bad or arcing plug wires, cracked plugs and so on.
If the vacuum port on the carburetor that was formerly used by the CEC is not capped it constitutes a vacuum leak and vacuum leaks can cause rough idle.
cc
Assuming that all vacuum ports have been plugged, does removing the CEC have any other consequences or disadvantages?
Assuming that all vacuum ports have been plugged, does removing the CEC have any other consequences or disadvantages?
Why would someone want to remove it, anyway?
Thanks
You actually get a performance gain by disabling the CEC system. It is designed to do 2 things, one good and one bad. The solenoid is a good thing as it is there to ensure that the throttle blades are completely closed when the engine is shut off thereby preventing dieseling.
The other thing, the vacuum part, is strictly for emissions control. It ensures that there is no vacuum advance allowed except during the first 20 seconds of startup, when the engine temp is under 82 degrees, above 232 degrees or you are in third or fourth gear. This has the effect of raising the engine temperature to burn off more hydrocarbons.
If you care about looking original leave all the stuff there and just disconnect the hoses from the distributor and the carburetor and replace them with a direct hose from the vacuum advance can to the manifold vacuum port on the carburetor.
The TCS system actually makes the engine combustion chamber run hotter, because it disables the vacuum advance unless you are at WOT or in 3rd or 4th gear. Without the TCS system, you have higher emissions at idle and low throttle, but your engine is 'happier'.
Is the TCS switch in the head a standard type thread? I ask because I just put electric fans in my 71 and remembered this switch. I have the TCS pieces, but I'm more or less bypassing them anyway since I just run my advance off the carb. I'd been looking to see if I could use the existing switch to trigger the fans and finally thanks to you all I found out how it works, but I don't think triggering at 232 degrees would help me, lol. Could I just replace this switch with a standard electric fan temp swtich or am I going to run into problems with threads, etc.? Thanks for the help!