Nope, won't work.

The ball stud in the PS control valve is designed to move against a spring to control the valve. The stud in the adapter or on a manual control rod is mounted solid so there is no play.

I have driven my car with no PS (hose broke, removed belt) and there is a lot of play due to the control valve. When there is hydraulic pressure in the system, that play is minimized since the hydraulics keep the stud centered.

 

im so sick of the play in my wheel... but i dono if im in a position to cough up 700 bucks for one of these babys... one day...

 

Believe me Johnny, it's the best 700 bucks I've ever spent on this pig
Bring your car by, I want to see it!

One word of advice I have for anyone considering this swap, or to any new steering system, make sure your steering/suspension is in top shape. Either inspect it, or have it checked by a shop that knows C3's before spending the big bux on a new system you may not even need. Problem could be as simple as a worn idler arm. I narrowed it down to the control valve, and after several rebuilt units and one new valve, figured enough was enough and bit the bullit. Use process of elimination before deciding to spend money that would otherwise be better spent on a front-end rebuild

BTW everyone have a Happy 4th tomorrow

 

Did you reinstall the steering column for shortening? How much did you have to cut off? With which toll did you do this?
Thanks, Günther

 

I did not remove the column, took a mallet and gently tapped on the end. I think I tapped it in around 2 inchs

Did you find out if the box will fit a car with a big block?

 

1) What exactly do you mean when you say you had to "shorten" the steering column? Did you have to cut a section off?
2) Did you eventually get the Pitman nut on fully?

 

The steering shaft sticks out the end of the steering column (out under the brake booster) by some 4 to 5 inches. Since all Corvette steering columns (starting the 1967 model year) were energy absorbing, the steering shaft is actually in two pieces. The steering shaft was designed to telescope onto itself in a severe frontal collision.

You can take advantage of the design feature and tap the end of the steering shaft and get it to move back into the steering jacket by several inches (if needed.) There is a lot of overlap between the upper and lower steering shafts so you are in no danger of losing your ability to steer the car.

You may need this telescope feature to fit an integral power steering gear into the car or to fit the universal joints needed for a rack and pinion steering gear.

Jim

 

Thanks Jim.

 

1) I tapped on the end of the column as described in the above post. It's easier than it sounds, especially with the header and steering box removed

2) I borrowed a torque wrench with a 150 lb setting and was able to get the nut to turn another 1/2 turn. The nut is still not past the end of the shaft, but there are no threads visible

 

Hi

I cannot confirm it will fit in all big block cars.

Dear Borgeson

I am willing to offer my car as a guinea pig to see if the BB HOOKER side exhaust headers make it past. You offer the box + kit and I will provide the PS pump etc ( manual steered car right now ) + my work.

Is that a fair deal ?:o

Rgds. Günther

 

Wow...and to make it easier you're in Europe...right next door to him....

 

Just so you BB guys know, I had to clearance the pipe next to my stock steering box on my 72 BB. I am using Hooker side exhaust so I'm pretty sure this box will be a no go with this brand of pipes.

 

Hi

I presently have a gap of over 1/2 " between the stock manual box and the HOOKER sidepipe chrome headers.
Borgeson claims that the PS box only moves about 3/8 " further to the engine, so should make it without needing to dimple the pipes.

And I guess that a small flat spot on the pipe would not hurt the exhaust flow that much, in case its required.

Rgds. Günther

 

Hi

Wow...and to make it easier you're in Europe...right next door to him....

Yea, that's how we are over here, always helpful first taking care about others . Our skin is not nearest to us.

Have fun. Günther

 

So with this box do I still retain the POS Power Steering control vlv?

carbster09

PS mine is a BB car and I want to have decent steering; been fiddling with this for too long.

 

Hi

Yes and no.
The kit includes a bracket that deactivates the valve. You can retain the PS relay rod etc, don't need to find a manual one.

Rgds. Günther

 

That's the same thing that the rack and pinion guys say. Now I'm confused. Which way to go?
Bee Jay

 

The control valve is replaced with a "drag link adapter" similar to what was used on non-power steering cars from the factory



Probably a matter of preference which system to use, but what got me interested in the Borgeson steering box is because once installed, it looks like it belongs there. Only someone familiar with Vettes can see it's not a factory box.
Plus it's several hundred dollars cheaper


I put this system through it's paces on the Monterey cruise yesterday, had no problems with it, I'm very happy with it

 

My wife wanted PS for the 70 LT-1 I installed a Corvette Steering Service kit over 3 years ago (Tom "invented" the Jeep box conversion.) I have been VERY HAPPY with the performance of this conversion and it allowed me to retain my 6quart "trapdoor" LT-1 oil pan (I have a NOS GM power steering system sitting in my garage right now and didn't use it because it would require me to change my LT-1 oil pan.) I know this conversion has plenty of clearance with Stailessworks small block 1.75" diameter chassis exit headers but, with a big block you may have some re-working to do on the driver's side tubes of any header system. The old power steering control valve is eliminated on this conversion and our C3 Corvette's technology level is moved from the 1950s invented Bendix power steering to the 1960s invented Saginaw intregal boost PS box. I have known people who have installed the rack and pinion kits, you loose ground clearance, the brackets are SCARY flimsy looking and the numer of universal joints and brackets makes me think the long term reliability will leave something to be desired. The "Jeep box" conversion is relativley straight forward, looks factory stock after completion and fits in with my idea of a proper modification for a reliable Corvette. Do a search on the amount of cracked mounting brackets the rack and pinion systems have had then make your decision, I know what I want in my Vette.

 

Saw your car yesterday, sharp & the wife definitely knows how to handle it! Didn't know it has a non-stock steering system on it, would like to have checked it out