Thrown Rod on 383 Stroker
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 4,101
Likes: 10
From: NorCal
Forget about the pushrod. If he found it on the road, someone dropped it there. He will find all of his pushrods intact, in place.
If this is legit, and I have no reason to doubt the poster, that part did not come through that hole. From the location and size of the hole next to the pan rail, a rod bolt and/or nut caused that vent hole! 'IF' he's real lucky, and the fact that it was idling (also sort of strange), he'll find a damaged rod and crank and maybe not much else. Take it to the bank...
Hans
If this is legit, and I have no reason to doubt the poster, that part did not come through that hole. From the location and size of the hole next to the pan rail, a rod bolt and/or nut caused that vent hole! 'IF' he's real lucky, and the fact that it was idling (also sort of strange), he'll find a damaged rod and crank and maybe not much else. Take it to the bank...
Hans
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 4,101
Likes: 10
From: NorCal
There is one other possibility I did not consider. That pusrod may have been propelled through the valve cover as the lower end exploded, kind of like a bomb going off under the lifter. In this case, a connecting rod would be the propellant, but you would find a small hole in the valve cover, and probably a dent or hole in the hood... Naaaah!
Hans
Hans
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
From: Glen Carbon il
Pushrod looks to be in good shape
I cant imagine that it would come out of the Oil Pan unscathed, looks like it has normal wear on the outer 1/3 rd of the pushrod, but anything is possible.
this is an interesting one indeed, and april fools is long past. I would expect it to at least be bent if one of the crank throws pushed it out the side of the oil pan.
subscribing to this thread !!
this is an interesting one indeed, and april fools is long past. I would expect it to at least be bent if one of the crank throws pushed it out the side of the oil pan.
subscribing to this thread !!
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 117
Likes: 0
Just a note - The push rod pictured has without a doubt been fitted and used at some point. You can see the slighly shiny part for about 1/2 inch on the right hand side (or top) where the push rod guide plates (Mounted under the rocker studs) have rubbed and worn/polished this section. This reduces the chances of it being the 17th pushrod? How long did the clonking noises go on for before it died? Was it a single clonk (pushrod being pushed thourgh the pan), or multiple clonks (something breaking before pushrod being pushed through the pan)? An engine would also still run (although rough) with one pushrod missing as it would be firing on 7 instead of 8 cylinders.
If it were me there was no way I could resist pulling the valve covers before even signing on here to post the message, the suspense would be killing me!
I really hope this is a true post and not a hoax, Some of the guys that have replied have been out to the garage and probably spent an hour trying different things to work out what is and isnt possible. On the basis you have a picture with a hole in the oil pan I am taking your word for it.
Keeping my fingers crosses for you, and like everyone else really want to know whats gone on inside that motor!
Lester
If it were me there was no way I could resist pulling the valve covers before even signing on here to post the message, the suspense would be killing me!
I really hope this is a true post and not a hoax, Some of the guys that have replied have been out to the garage and probably spent an hour trying different things to work out what is and isnt possible. On the basis you have a picture with a hole in the oil pan I am taking your word for it.
Keeping my fingers crosses for you, and like everyone else really want to know whats gone on inside that motor!
Lester
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,057
Likes: 4
From: Concord Calif
If this is a for real thread, then the damage to that oil pan did not come from that push rod! But in any case the engine needs to come out because of that hole in the pan. As far as the push rod, who knows, one need to see if all the other push rods are there or not but no matter the hole in the pan says the engine comes out, then lets see all that happened.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
From: Cibolo TX
Lester:
I appreciate all your advice. Like I mentioned before, I am not an engine guru but I am trying to learn all that I can and I know just from the replies of alot of people know excatly what they are talking about including yourself. As for the noise, it was a single noise then a backfire, then it died. I tried to start it initially but the engine wouldnt crank over but I didnt keep at it.
I appreciate all your advice. Like I mentioned before, I am not an engine guru but I am trying to learn all that I can and I know just from the replies of alot of people know excatly what they are talking about including yourself. As for the noise, it was a single noise then a backfire, then it died. I tried to start it initially but the engine wouldnt crank over but I didnt keep at it.
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
I did the same as Larrywalk and I could not get a stock pushrod to go through to the pan. I tried through the oil return holes and through the lifter bores on #1 , 2 and 3.
However I did cut a piece of .250 soft rod to pushrod length and I was able to get it to drop through to the pan through #1 intake lifter bore. So depending on engine block mods (larger return oil holes and such)and camshaft I'm thinking that it is possible for a pushrod to get through to the pan,after it gets through there is no telling.
Stock pushrod is around .310 so if return holes are larger or corners are trimmed for whatever reason a stock rod should go through also.
John I can't wait to see what you find when you remove the valvecover.
However I did cut a piece of .250 soft rod to pushrod length and I was able to get it to drop through to the pan through #1 intake lifter bore. So depending on engine block mods (larger return oil holes and such)and camshaft I'm thinking that it is possible for a pushrod to get through to the pan,after it gets through there is no telling.
Stock pushrod is around .310 so if return holes are larger or corners are trimmed for whatever reason a stock rod should go through also.
John I can't wait to see what you find when you remove the valvecover.
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Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
From: Cibolo TX
Valve Covers off
I got the covers off and didn't like what I saw. On the drivers side, on the 2nd set of two rocker arms, the push rods are gone and on the 3rd set, the second rod is gone. It may have pushed down into the block when I was removing the cover. On the passenger side, the 3rd set of rods, only one was gone but I am sure I knocked the other rod down when I removed the cover. I also found an additional two holes in my oil pan. One on the driver side and a second on the passenger side. I added two additional photos on my initial post which show what it looks like with the valve covers off.
So with that all said and done, what would be my best course of action? Have it towed to an engine shop?
Thanks again to everyone who has given me advice, i really do appreciate it.
So with that all said and done, what would be my best course of action? Have it towed to an engine shop?
Thanks again to everyone who has given me advice, i really do appreciate it.
Last edited by johndarrah24; May 11, 2010 at 06:03 PM. Reason: Added information
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 4,101
Likes: 10
From: NorCal
Hans
Last edited by Wrencher; May 11, 2010 at 06:26 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
I got the covers off and didn't like what I saw. On the drivers side, on the 2nd set of two rocker arms, the push rods are gone and on the 3rd set, the second rod is gone. It may have pushed down into the block when I was removing the cover. On the passenger side, the 3rd set of rods, only one was gone but I am sure I knocked the other rod down when I removed the cover. I also found an additional two holes in my oil pan. One on the driver side and a second on the passenger side. I added two additional photos on my initial post which show what it looks like with the valve covers off.
So with that all said and done, what would be my best course of action? Have it towed to an engine shop?
Thanks again to everyone who has given me advice, i really do appreciate it.
So with that all said and done, what would be my best course of action? Have it towed to an engine shop?
Thanks again to everyone who has given me advice, i really do appreciate it.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,993
Likes: 9
From: Gig Harbor WA
I got the covers off and didn't like what I saw. On the drivers side, on the 2nd set of two rocker arms, the push rods are gone and on the 3rd set, the second rod is gone. It may have pushed down into the block when I was removing the cover. On the passenger side, the 3rd set of rods, only one was gone but I am sure I knocked the other rod down when I removed the cover. I also found an additional two holes in my oil pan. One on the driver side and a second on the passenger side. I added two additional photos on my initial post which show what it looks like with the valve covers off.
So with that all said and done, what would be my best course of action? Have it towed to an engine shop?
Thanks again to everyone who has given me advice, i really do appreciate it.
So with that all said and done, what would be my best course of action? Have it towed to an engine shop?
Thanks again to everyone who has given me advice, i really do appreciate it.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,343
Likes: 4
From: Anderson SC
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 4,101
Likes: 10
From: NorCal
At this point you want to just save the heads. Work with the builder and order up a crate engine or a short block that's ready to go.
If you weren't so far away, I could help out. I have a line on a real nice complete 355 the guy wants $3500.00 for, or we could come up with something else... Kinda' blows when this happens.
Hans
Last edited by Wrencher; May 11, 2010 at 07:08 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 5,768
Likes: 3
From: San Diego CA
I had a camshaft break in my big block monte carlo, I was getting on the freeway when the cam went. it broke between two journals and dropped a chunk into the crankcase.
That chunk got caught by the crankshaft and was wedged up against one of the block bulkheads. stopping the motor instantly. Fortunately the car was an automatic so the rear wheels didnt lock up (but i sure slowed down quickly)
also all the lifters and pushrods on that portion of the cam dropped into the crankcase.
In the end I was shocked to find that the only damage to the bottom end was a nick in the cast iron of the block where the cam chunk got wedged by the crank. The crank was reusable, the block was reused. connecting rods and all the rest of the reciprocating assembly were reused.
Testament to the strength of the big block chevy.
I've also seen a rod get thrown, on my Austin healey 3000 - rod came right out of the side of the block and laid across the exhaust system...very messy and unfortunately I had to sell the car after that
I miss that car the most of the cars I've owned.
That chunk got caught by the crankshaft and was wedged up against one of the block bulkheads. stopping the motor instantly. Fortunately the car was an automatic so the rear wheels didnt lock up (but i sure slowed down quickly)
also all the lifters and pushrods on that portion of the cam dropped into the crankcase.
In the end I was shocked to find that the only damage to the bottom end was a nick in the cast iron of the block where the cam chunk got wedged by the crank. The crank was reusable, the block was reused. connecting rods and all the rest of the reciprocating assembly were reused.
Testament to the strength of the big block chevy.
I've also seen a rod get thrown, on my Austin healey 3000 - rod came right out of the side of the block and laid across the exhaust system...very messy and unfortunately I had to sell the car after that
I miss that car the most of the cars I've owned.
Pro
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 613
Likes: 3
From: Fleetwood PA
Take it back to the guy that built it. If he's a do right guy, he should at the least take it apart and see what caused the problem for free. If he bought the engine from a third party, and only installed it, he's really not responsible two years after the fact and he will have to contact the builder. A cam coming apart(which I'm 99% sure is what happened) is usually an oiling issue. It might have locked up in the bore and BAM!!! thats all she wrote. Have him check to see that the cam bearings were installed with the oil holes in proper alignment. Then check to see if the oil channels to the bearings were clogged by a loose piece of RTV sealer or other foreign material. If either of these or another obvious build error is the cause, they should be responsible for ALL repairs. If nothing can be found, you may only be able to recoup part of the cost. Good luck with it, and keep us up to date on the outcome!!!