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Hi guys, I've been meaning to post an update on the Vette for some time now. Unfortunately I can't find the USB cord for the camera so I won't be able to post any pics right now. I'll look for it first thing tomorrow morning. I've been prepping the chassis for paint and have wire brushed the driver side and will do the other side next week. The front suspension is if and also being prepped for a rebuild and paint as well. What I'm still trying to figure out is how I should go about painting the chassis. Should I do one half first and then the other, or should I do everything at once? Keep in mind that this is a body on resto. How did you guys do it when painting the chassis? I'm using "Zero-Rust" for paint. I'll try to post pics tomorrow if I can find the USB cable.
I've been staring at my daughter's 1976 rusty subframe......dreading the thought of doing a body-off resto just to clean up the frame. From what I read, the only thing that requires a body-off resto is installing a new fuel line.
Can you describe your experience in rust removal/prep of the frame. Is it as simple as a wire wheel and laying on your back?
Here is my list for refurbing the frame. 1) Use an icepick or other sharp/pointed tool to probe the frame for weak areas that can be punctured; if you can't stick the pick through the frame [anywhere], you have a pretty solid frame. 2) Use a grinder or drill with a heavy wire wheel to knock off as much loose rust as you can; remaining rust that is solidly attached to the frame is not a major concern. 3) Buy at least a gallon of "rust converter" and apply it liberally to the frame so that all the remaining rust is changed into an inert compound that will no longer progess as 'rust'; this is particularly important in the areas that are difficult [or impossible] to reach with the wire wheel...use a squirt bottle, etc. to flood those areas to minimize the propogation of rust. 4) Select your "coating" of choice: Semi-gloss Rustoleum (brushed)-best 'bang' for the buck; POR-15 [or other epoxy-type paint-most expensive/best protection; or 'something else'.
Lots of work...but not 'brain surgery'. You can get it to be well prepped and well protected without removing the body.
I've been staring at my daughter's 1976 rusty subframe......dreading the thought of doing a body-off resto just to clean up the frame. From what I read, the only thing that requires a body-off resto is installing a new fuel line.
Can you describe your experience in rust removal/prep of the frame. Is it as simple as a wire wheel and laying on your back?
Everything came off with just a wire wheel on an electric drill for mine. I had one side jacked up high, with jack stand underneath, and began the process. I'm still going to have to hit it with Zero-Rust's Prep Step, which is a "Rust Remover & Metal Conditioner." I'm gonna leave that for a day or two to dry, and then I'll go ahead and start painting the chassis. It takes lots of time and patience, so be ready. I was lucky that my chassis cleaned up pretty well with no rust issues, at least the driver side since I haven't done the other side, and looks as good as the day it left the factory. I'm still looking for that USB cord so I can post some pics.
OH, it seems like a lot of prep work, but that's just me because I want everything to be done right. On their web site it says that all you need to really do is wire brush/wheel the chassis to clean it and then paint.
I've been staring at my daughter's 1976 rusty subframe......dreading the thought of doing a body-off resto just to clean up the frame. From what I read, the only thing that requires a body-off resto is installing a new fuel line.
Can you describe your experience in rust removal/prep of the frame. Is it as simple as a wire wheel and laying on your back?
I stared at mine for five years, until the clutch broke. A decision to pull the engine and transmission started the whole process. Good luck at being able to stop at "just the frame." The more you do, the more things you will find that need "a little love." Work at it one section at a time (front-middle-rear) so you don't get too many things pulled apart and become overwhelmed or discouraged. Start with a mild degreaser like Spray Nine, which is much easier on both your skin and the car's paint. Make sure you have a good set of goggles and be prepared to pick the wires out of your face and clothing.
Bottom line...the underbody is a dirty, nasty job that needs to be done...the sooner the better. Your daughter's 34 year old car isn't getting any younger or less rusty just sitting there. Go for it.
Hi,
I think you can do a good job with the body on. But there are a few places on the frame that you don't have access to in the rear at the kick-up over the rear suspension.
Because there is such good access further forward I was dissappointed with the results in that location, after a LOT of thought I lifted the body.
And went crazy!
Regards,
Alan
A body off resto would be great if you had the time and money for it. By the look of your daughters frame and suspension, I would say that it's going to take a bit more time to get all of that off of there. My suspension and frame didn't look too bad, so it didn't take very long to remove the grime and surface rust off of the chassis. Since I don't have the time, or the budget, for a body off resto I'm just doing the body on resto. The suspension and other things like that will be rebuilt though. I'm in college right now, so both my budget and time are tight. I plan on removing the engine and tranny, to paint everything, once the car is at my friend's shop.
How's it going Alan? I'm gonna do the best I can to get as much of the chassis painted and looking right. I didn't work on the car today because I had to go buy a couple of things I needed to continue prepping everything. I want to have my Vette looking at least half way as good as your Vettes.
Cleaning up the frame with the body on won't give you access to the top surfaces where dirt and sand may settle. I found a lot on the top side of the cross member which the differential is bolted. You won't have access to the channels behind the rocker panels either. Are you trying to stop rust or just clean it up a bit? As others have said I found many things which needed attention when I lifted the body. With the body lifted you would have access to the entire frame and underside of the birdcage, another rust area.
is it better to go with a actual brush or drill bit brush?
Drill bit brush. You'll never finish with a just a brush. I'm going to use a wire brush for the smaller tight areas. I still can't find that USB cord. I'm gonna use my other computer and post the pics that way. A body off resto is just not an option right now. Maybe in the future, but for now I'll be happy with what I'm doing.
You can get to a lot of the frame without taking the body off. I thought I had a light layer of surface rust on mine judging by the color, but it turned out to be a thick layer of undercoating covered in orange/brown dirt. Once I had scraped off the undercoating I had the original frame paint exposed and just used lacquer thinner to remove and reveal the clean frame. I used Eastwood Chassis Black in an airbrush to paint the frame once it was clean.
Beautiful condition, looks like a nice car!
My 70 looked nothing like that when I took it apart.
Generally speaking, any car made with steel, even Corvettes, rust in the northeast.
Sometimes wish I had gone South to buy one.
Thanks for sharing..
I've been staring at my daughter's 1976 rusty subframe......dreading the thought of doing a body-off resto just to clean up the frame. From what I read, the only thing that requires a body-off resto is installing a new fuel line.
Can you describe your experience in rust removal/prep of the frame. Is it as simple as a wire wheel and laying on your back?
You've got it easy brother!
Here's what I had to start with
Take your time, use good materials and it will turn out great.