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Hey Gordon, how much fuel pressure did you have before you swapped the lines around? And how much after switching? I ask because I am also having problems with getting mine to start. The same symptoms that you have. I am planning to update my post tonight if you want to have a look.
Riggs
I had no fuel pressure. I took the line off at the injector rail and got nothing at all. Not even a drop. Followed it back and took off the regualtor to find I had the lines swapped around.
Wish you were out here.. I have all the ECM diagnostic stuff to tell you what's going on.
You can use a screwdriver or stethoscope to listen to the injectors, will need to have someone else cranking for you..
Not much will stop these from getting spark - have the right reluctor wheel and the crank position stuff all hooked up?
Yes I have all the correct stuff. Nothing was taken off the motor from when it was a running car. I changed the cam and used the correct timing gear for the 09 LS3 with the 3 bolt. It is the LS7 gear. I had a custom wiring harness from PSI. I have to go back over everything to check it all out. I will listen to the injectors but pulled a plug and saw no spark either.
OK Bonehead move here. I was trying to get it just to fire today but could not get any fuel up to the rails. Crap I thought something was wrong with the pump. I could hear it and it sounded like it was priming. Well long story shortened a little I had the two lines on the filter/regulator crossed. Duh! Swapped them around and guess what I have plenty of fuel right at the fuel rail. Still have no fire yet. Not getting spark nor do I know if the injectors are firing. Just want to hear it fire!
I made the exact same mistake when I first tried to start my TPI. I improvised an injector noid light out of an interior (low wattage) light bulb and ruled out an injector issue before I sorted the fuel lines out. I have since invested in a real noid light, because I have twice since then had to diagnose mysterious no-start issues. Well worth the $15, but I know that Autozone loans noid lights out for free if that option is available to you.
Unfortunately I can't help you with diagnosing the LS1-- TPI is stone age in comparison. Good luck!
Just a little update on the original post. As some of you have seen from my other post I did get it running. Had a small wiring issue but it is now up and at least running. Only problem wa I had a major PS fluid leak from the rack. Another issue of crossed line. Pressure and drain lines crossed. I am becoming a master at that. Lines in proper location now and no more leaks. Onto the interior stuff now. At least I can move the car now. More room outside to have the interior work going on. Here is the link for the running video.
I'm Home Now from my extensive and highly successful World travel Gordon. Let's connect up soon. Have the plate and parts, will visit my source of machining on Monday. Update soon. Cheers.
David
It is getting closer but still a ways to go. I am working on the interior now getting the dash back in and the carpet back in and the Vintage Air duct work in. Again it is all a custom fit. I hope to get it out and run it again tomorrow with some coolant in it. I have been firing it up dry and only running it for about 30 seconds or so. I now have hoses on it and some water in it to keep it cool. I will be working on it shortly.
I saw a guy at Bloomington Gold a few years back (2008) with a LS1 in his '69. T56 trans., Let me tell you it was of the hook. The performance and the crowd responce was really good. He was a engineer and designed and built most of the parts to do the swap himself, before some of the stuff came to the aftermarket. When my ol 327 dies, im going LS baby! Have fun and good luck on your project
Okay I took a few weeks off this project and did not touch it. I was extremly pissed off that the headers did not fit and am still upset about this. These were not cheap and they don't fit worth a crap. Ihad to modify them to fit around the steeroids and the ground clearance is terrible. Like 2 inches. So I have a 900 dollar piece of header wall art if anyone is interested.
OK rant aside I am back into it. Iordered a new set of F body headers uncoated so if any mods need to be done I can then will send them out for coating later. I also ordered a set of the Wilwood 6/4 piston calipers from Van Steel and a Wilwood MC also. These should arrive shortly. I have had a set of offset trailing arms for about 2 years sitting in the basement and figured this would be a good time to install. I have one done today and they are much better looking and beefier than the stockers. So nothing real new on the LS motor part but I feel like I did something on it. Pictures will come later.
Hey Gordon sometimes you need to walk away, cool down then get back into it again. That sucks about the headers, riggs had trouble too.Did you get my PM about the steering?
Glad you are back at it! I know how it feels to be frustrated and pissed off during a project, sometimes the best thing to do is just walk away for awhile.
Gordon, if it's any consolation, at least one person is glad to know not to buy your first set of headers. It seemed a little dicey to me at the time I needed to make up my mind what to do about the exhaust. I have an LS3 and elected to stay with the as-supplied crate engine manifolds. Some rewelding on the "z-bar" was necessary but it wasn't bad. Fit with my Borgeson steering just fine
But I am interested in knowing what sort of obstruction there is to the mechanical clutch linkage for future reference. Last I looked at the F-body header pictures posted it seemed #5 cylinder was definitely in the way. If you think of it and get a picture, great for future reference.
Gordon, if it's any consolation, at least one person is glad to know not to buy your first set of headers. It seemed a little dicey to me at the time I needed to make up my mind what to do about the exhaust. I have an LS3 and elected to stay with the as-supplied crate engine manifolds. Some rewelding on the "z-bar" was necessary but it wasn't bad. Fit with my Borgeson steering just fine
But I am interested in knowing what sort of obstruction there is to the mechanical clutch linkage for future reference. Last I looked at the F-body header pictures posted it seemed #5 cylinder was definitely in the way. If you think of it and get a picture, great for future reference.
Cliff (ignatz)
Can't help you with the mechanical linkage. I am running an 06 GTO T56 with the LS style hydraulic throwout bearing. So I have no worries about the linkage. I vowed to run long tubes one way or another on this build and I will do it. The budget has long gone way over so it is just at the point I will do what it takes.
Once I get the headers and brakes installed Iwill post up some pictures. I have the trailing arms assembled back together and one side just bolted on. Enough for today.
Gordon, good to see your moving forward with the project. I will be watching for the post about the F-body headers. Did you go with the pace setters 1.75 or something else?
I have been looking at several brands and styles, but as you may know they wouldn't do me any good at this point, the motor is trashed and being rebuilt.
It will be good to see your project moving forward again.
Gordon, good to see your moving forward with the project. I will be watching for the post about the F-body headers. Did you go with the pace setters 1.75 or something else?
I have been looking at several brands and styles, but as you may know they wouldn't do me any good at this point, the motor is trashed and being rebuilt.
It will be good to see your project moving forward again.
Riggs
Yes I went with the Pacesetter 1 3/4 tubes. I will be careful taking the packaging off and trial fitting. If they are not close to fitting I will return and try something else. They should be here by weeks and so I should be able to try them by the weekend. I will post up some pics and a write up on the trial fit.
Got the headers in and am trial fitting them. Good news bad news on these. The ground clearance is way better as the ytuck up very tight to the floorboard. Almost to tight but I have a 1/2 shim in the trans mount which I can reduce a little to gain some clearance. This won't mess up the driveshaft angle to much so I might try. The bad news is the drivers side exit points out towards the frame rail more than I would like. This can be fixed by cutting the tube at an angle and rewelding it. It does fit the Steeroids with plenty of clearance. Those with a stock heater box or stock AC box I don't know how it will fit. Pretty tight to firewall on passenger side. So tight Iwill have to relocate the coils I relocated there. I don't have any pictures yet on this but will post some up later. I think these can be made to fit much better than the others. The others just had no ground clearance at all. The welds and such are not quite as good as the other set but I can clean them up before I send them off to be coated. Not to worried about that part. They are very tight to the engine block so the plug wires I had come from underneath may have to be reworked also. So as usual this has taken one step forward but about 4 backwards to make everything else around it fit correctly. This may get done by next year at this rate.
Gordon, It's a shame that the F-body headers fit better than the C3 headers. By the look of the photo's they would work well for my setup as well, My trans mount is lower than stock, so the angle would probably be close. The ground clearance looks great.
What year F-body did you by for? I believe there is a set for 98-2000 and 01-02, I think that the other set, opposite of the ones you have, don't have the kick out. You may want to confirm with Quil, we made no mention of the driver side kicking out that I remember reading.