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2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (track prepared)
C3 of Year Winner (track prepared) 2019
Also, where did you end up moving your passenger side coil packs? I am debating if I want to put mine on that heat shield or not. I currently have the relocation brackets to move them off the valve covers and up higher near the fuel rail. However, mounting them to the heat shields would certainly go a long way to further cleaning up the engine bay.
Right now I still have. The coil packs on some custom made heat shields. They are working fine. As for the intake I have not done anything yet. Just got the car back and the headers and intake are probably my first projects to do.
Gordon, Glad to see you're able to get back to the LS swap. Hopefully that means that the other parts of you life have settled and you can relax a little and enjoy the finer things in life, like your Vette.
Bringing this thread back to life a little. I am working with AR headers to get some headers that fit decently and work! My next big project on this is. Getting an air I take setup. I have a few ideas but would like cold air instead of putting it behind the rad support. I may put it behind temporarily just to get it running. Then onto the interior And getting the vintage Air setup working. Lots of little minor details need attention also. This project has sat to long to not get moving. Hoping for spring to get it going.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (track prepared)
C3 of Year Winner (track prepared) 2019
I hope you come up with a good solution (that doesn't involve a snake of air duct tubing) for the intake tube! I am still trying to decide what I want to do about that.
I have contemplated doing what we have done with other cars and cutting a large hole in the inner fender and passing the filter into the wheelwell. You can then build a shield to protect it from the elements but I'm not sure I want to do that with this car.... Seen it done on countless mustangs and even some Tri-5 LS swapped cars and it looks good.
Just a little update. This is one of the reasons this is taking so long. It is all the small details that nobody will ever see or even think about that make the car work right. The DBW pedal is obviously different than the stock pedal. To try and mount it in the stock location the pedal would be on the trans tunnel Rather than bend up the new pedal I decided to make an aluminum mount for the pedal. Started out as a 6X6 piece of aluminum. I cut measured and drilled it until I was satisfied with the fit of it. Bolted it all in in the final configuration adn I get full pedal travel and the pedal is in almost the stock location.
Starting point
Backside of the mount. I had to mill out some of it for the rivits holding the original plate on.
In the car.
Your thread is very inspirational! I am waiting to get further along before starting a thread on my 74 frame-o/ff resto / LS1/4L60E swap. Neither of which was planned but after getting the car home and up on the lift I realized it was the only way to go!
One of the things I have been head scratching on was the DBW gas pedal. What size plate are you using? 1/4"?
I know you said the factory LS3 oil pan fit with the Steeroids set up, do you know if it will interfere with the factory set up at all?
I'm not sure but if need be I can take some measurements and pictures if you need them. Something that is out now that was not when I put my LS3 in is slider motor mounts. Dirty Dingo now has slider so if you need a little more clearance you can slide the motor a little back and forth. My Dirty Dingo mounts are one way or the other. AR headers use these mounts and recommend them. The only thing then is the trans mount which depending on trans used is going to require mods anyway. There are some options out there but the stock pan on the LS3 Vette looks like it should clear factory linkage.
cool thanks! I just finished swapping an LS1 into my '72 Suburban and used their slider mounts. I havent found a the car Im looking for yet, but Ive started doing the research ahead of time for the swap. Im leaning towards using the GMPP LS3/525 crate motor, which is why I was wondering about the factory LS3 pan....I had to use the Holley muscle car pan on my Suburban.
Got the aluminum tube and some silicone hose and an air filter. It fits better on this side than the AC side. I just laid the bung for the airflow sensor on the tube to see how it would work out. Also have to get the hood back on to see how it all fits under the hood.
I put the hood back on last night and happy to say I have good clearance. Probably about 1.5 inches from the largest diameter of the filter to the hood. The L88 hood gives good clearance for this. I would have preferred to go over the hood support but just not possible without major core support work and having the hood open like the C5 cars do. I am looking forward to removing the vacuum headlights and going electric as there is a bunch of vacuum hoses up front I would like to clean up. I am also going to put the airflow sensor in the tube coming up from the bottom. There is plenty of room and it keeps the top part of the tube clean looking. That will probably be today's project.
Spring is coming, I need to get this back road worthy
I think it probably would fit as it tucks in pretty well in that spot. I searched forever for that tube. I saw a bunch but the bend was not sharp enough. This one I found and got a part number. I googled the part number and I actually bought it from Amazon and used the free shipping because I was not in a hurry. The others wanted like 18 dollars to ship a 16 dollar piece of pipe. If you want the info I can dig it up for you.
Also got the filter from Amazon and the silicone couplers I got off eBay for a song. Actually bought 2 couplers but only needed one.
Ok will do. Do you need the bracket for the tube for the air sensor. Can't remember which motor you are using. That was also tough to find but I got the little piece that the sensor bolts to.