One more little thing crossed off the list. MOunted and installed the filter/regulator on the frame. I am using the stock fuel line, cut to the right length of course and using the Vette fliter/regulator. I still have to plumb the lines from the pump down to the filter but I am doing that on the tank.

 

Great looking setup. It looks like your fuel line has been replaced since the original, it looks new as well.



Riggs.

 

That fuel line was replaced about 92 when I had the body off the car. It is a SS line so it should look OK. The other end has another fitting on it right about where the frame bends up. That is where I run a flexible line to the fuel rails. Working on the tank and fuel pump this afternoon.

 

Looks like you mounted the filter on the right rear frame rail. I was able to mount both the walbro external pump and regulator there and keep the spare tire in place.
Are you planning on an external or intank pump?

 

Pump is an internal Walbro 255.

 

Sumped?
I'm considering a couple options over the external pump.

 

The setup that Gordonm has is the easiest, and cleanest setup that I have seen. Not to mention that the cost wasn't bad as well. I'll be running the same setup.

I like the look of the simplicity of just the filter being seen and not having a pump, regulator and filter cluttering up the back of the car.

Riggs.

 

Here is what I am building. Not done yet but you get the idea. I did it at an angle so it sits flat on the bottom of the tank. I have put the pump as far at the bottom as I can. It sits at an angle but the highest it is off the sump is maybe 1/4 inch. I'll have more pics when it is completed. Fuel lines on backorder right now.






Here is my old setup. Worked very well for the Mass Flo system I was running,

 

Tanks Inc?

 

You bet.

 

Gordonm, when you cut the hole in the tank for the fuel pump Assembly did you have any trouble with the ring not setting flush to create a good seal when the pump is installed into the tank? The ring is wider than the flat surface on top of the tank. I have not cut mine yet but will soon. Are you welding the ring inplace or no.

Riggs.

 

It will definitly not set flat. I had to hammer and dolly a portion of the tank so it would set flush. Good thing there is a good size gasket for it. I will use some good sealer also. I am not going to weld the ring on. I can get my hand in through the filler hole and hold it in place.

I also read somewhere now that my hole is already there that you do not have to make it 4 1/2 inches. Somewhere I think I read that a 4 inch hole will do. Little tricky getting the pump in but someone I think did it. That would give you some more tank flange to work with.

 

Gordon nice work!!!!!!!!!! i wish i was still in the state i would like to see that in person, bob

 

Nice to know, I might try to tackle it still yet this weekend, I'll see what I can come up with and let you know how it turns out.

Riggs.

 

Let us know how it works. I was planning om a spiral sump.

 

Onto another part of the project the AC. I went to mount the condenser and with the Vintage Air brackets it should fit great. WRONG! As with everything else they don't fit real well. So I did a little modification. You are supposed to use the same holes in the support that you use for the upper radiator brackets. Well I cut the brackets down some and used my own mounting. I used all Stainless hardware and I like the looks of mine better. Plus it will be easier to mount the radiator, which I am thinking about custom mounts on that also.

 

Where did you get this engine???

 

Engine was sourced from Cleveland Pick A Part. Gus was real accomodating. They had a complete rolling 18K mile 09 Vette for sale. I did not need the complete rolling frame with drivetrain and just don't have the room to part it all out. He offered just the motor and accessories to me and we worked out a deal for that. The motor is extremly clean and should when it eventually fires up be just what I wanted.

I was able to get into the motor last night. I finally decided on a cam and springs for it. There are a zillion cams for these motors and everyone has their own idea on what works. The cam is certainly not wild by any means but once it is installed and I have some computer tuning it should put out around 520 to 530 flywheel HP.
Here are a few shots from last night. The LS3 motors use a 4X sensor on the cam and on the LS3 they use a big single cam bolt. Most aftermarket cams and the LS7 use a 3 bolt cam so I got the correct LS7 cam gear and 3 bolts to replace the single bolt. I am going to use the stock chain as the LS3 uses a better chain than the early LS motors. Just a cam gear change.



Changing out the springs. Still going to use the behive springs. The Comp Cams 26918 springs have been updated and provide enough "spring" and allow enough lift for the cam I chose. Also going with titanium retainers because I have a heavy right foot so it will see some rpm and these have quite a bit less weight than the steel ones. I am also going with a rocker arm trunion upgrade on the stock rockers. There have been some failures with the stock bearings in these spewing little rollers all over the engine. Rare it is but for a 125 dollars it is cheap insurance against grenading the motor.
Old springs



The nice thing about the LS motors is you do not have to remove the intake for a cam change. The lifters can stay in they just have to be in the up position. They sit in a plastic retainer and "should" stay in the up position after removing the valve train. You just spin the cam a few times and they stay in the up position. Now this is a low mile motor so there should be little wear and they should stay up but I have heard they might slip down. Not a good thing after the cam is out. They do make a special tool to slide in the two valleys to hold up the lifters. I found out on LS1 tech a 5/16 dowel works as well. I had an old piece of 5/16 tube hanging around that worked great for one side but could not find anything else. A piece of 5/16 threaded rod is smaller but a couple of wraps with some tape to protect the lifters from thread damage and make it the correct size works great. These are the two things you see sticking out of the front of the motor. You can also slightly see the lifter rollers in the cam hole.





Parts are arriving tomorrow so it should be back together shortly.

 

How much does a 'yard' LS3 go for ???

 

They can go anywhere from a low of a few thousand to a high of 8 or 9 thousand depending on what you get with them. The LS7s are in the most demand so they command the most money. The LS3s are pretty much in demand so they are up there also. LS1s with lots of miles can be had pretty cheap. It is the little things like sensors and the accessories tha treally add up in the project so try and get as much as you can with the motor. What you don't use you can sell off. I have some parts that I will not be using so it will probably be off to ebay after it gets done.