LS3 into my 72
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,496
Likes: 6
From: springfield ohio
So, Am I understanding this right, you have to center the bell housing using dial indicators to make it truly centered? Aren't the bell housing mounting holes and the pins made to automatically center the bell housing? How are you truly finding center of the crank shaft? I can't believe that the manufactures are allowing this much slope in their product.
Riggs.
Riggs.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,655
Likes: 19
Last 621 bell housing I checked was 0.020 out. That will kill a trans fast.
You center it with a dial indicator rotated on the flywheel. There are quite a few online sites detailing the procedure.
The guy on Pro-Touring used the front plate off the trans mounted to the bell.
You center it with a dial indicator rotated on the flywheel. There are quite a few online sites detailing the procedure.
The guy on Pro-Touring used the front plate off the trans mounted to the bell.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
I actually did dial in my Quick time bellhousing off the somewhat circular opening of the back housing. I found the best was with the stock pins in the block. It did not come out perfect but was within .005. It seemed the circular part was a little out of round by a few thousandths but i did the best i could. Never thought of using the mid plate.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
Today got some more done I installed the new tank with the new fuel pump and lines. I got it all up and installed and then remembered, Did I tighten all the fittings up there. So back down it came. Retighten everything and back up there. That is all secured.
Now remember when I said things grow and shrink from the trial fit period? Well they do. I did not like the clearance on the heater hose fittings. They did clear but under hard throttle and hard cornering I was concerned it would hit. So out the fittings came. I will replace them in a different location. The header fits good on the passenger side. Fuel lines are all made and hooked up. Drilled and fit the rear crossmember mount. So it is in its home position now. Hopefully for good. I don't see any reasong for it to come out again but you never know.
Now remember when I said things grow and shrink from the trial fit period? Well they do. I did not like the clearance on the heater hose fittings. They did clear but under hard throttle and hard cornering I was concerned it would hit. So out the fittings came. I will replace them in a different location. The header fits good on the passenger side. Fuel lines are all made and hooked up. Drilled and fit the rear crossmember mount. So it is in its home position now. Hopefully for good. I don't see any reasong for it to come out again but you never know.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,496
Likes: 6
From: springfield ohio
Looking real nice. Do you think one 90 and one 45 would work for clearing the upper control arm? Mine is close, but I am going to pull mine back apart and cut the threads on the 90, down a bit to give some extra clearances since the fitting bottom out but still left plenty of thread to allow me to cut it down.
Have you tried to fit the driver side header yet? I trail fitted mine to check the clearances and found that the steering u joint at the rack will not clear the header tube, I guess I will have to dimple the tube to make it work.
How are you doing with keeping that nice fresh paint job from being scratched? I have large furniture moving blankets on my fenders, the other day I had some brake cleaner spray onto the blanket, and about ten minutes latter I noticed it, lifted the blanket an found that the brake cleaner went through the blanket carrying some of the die with it, and now I have a mark on the fender that is permanent, I was PISSED. Hope you have better luck then I, with keeping the paint nice.
Riggs
Have you tried to fit the driver side header yet? I trail fitted mine to check the clearances and found that the steering u joint at the rack will not clear the header tube, I guess I will have to dimple the tube to make it work.
How are you doing with keeping that nice fresh paint job from being scratched? I have large furniture moving blankets on my fenders, the other day I had some brake cleaner spray onto the blanket, and about ten minutes latter I noticed it, lifted the blanket an found that the brake cleaner went through the blanket carrying some of the die with it, and now I have a mark on the fender that is permanent, I was PISSED. Hope you have better luck then I, with keeping the paint nice.
Riggs
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
Tomorrow I will try the drivers side header. The fittings fit I just dont think there was enough clearance. With the motor under full power and if in a tight turn I was worried with the movement that it would hit. This will be driven hard and I just was not comfortable with the clearance. I am going to put on all the acc on the front with the AC bracket and see exactly where the fittings need to be. This is also with no shims in the upper control arms. If I need some shims it would be even closer and would for sure interfere.
As for the paint, Iam doing the same with the moving blankets. They do not show on this photo but they are being used. Just trying to be very careful around the paint.
As for the paint, Iam doing the same with the moving blankets. They do not show on this photo but they are being used. Just trying to be very careful around the paint.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
Riggs,
I trial fitted the drivers side and yes it does hit the ujoint. It is just resting on the ujoint. So something will have to move or be reworked. I did figure out a way for the heater hose fittings, I just have to do it now. Couple of other minor little things that popped up but I figured on these as I got going. I have all the front brackets on the motor to look at it and everything looks to line up pretty good. I'll click a picture of it soon.
Passenger side header. No problem
Drivers side header. Oops it looks like a slight interference. Tube dimple or rework the ujoint.
PS pump is a little close. Engine torque will pull it away from the control arm but it is still a little close to the bolt. I'll trim it back some for clearance.
I trial fitted the drivers side and yes it does hit the ujoint. It is just resting on the ujoint. So something will have to move or be reworked. I did figure out a way for the heater hose fittings, I just have to do it now. Couple of other minor little things that popped up but I figured on these as I got going. I have all the front brackets on the motor to look at it and everything looks to line up pretty good. I'll click a picture of it soon.
Passenger side header. No problem
Drivers side header. Oops it looks like a slight interference. Tube dimple or rework the ujoint.
PS pump is a little close. Engine torque will pull it away from the control arm but it is still a little close to the bolt. I'll trim it back some for clearance.
Last edited by Gordonm; Dec 18, 2011 at 03:35 PM.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
Ok here is the latest rendition of the water pump fittings. I was not satisfied at all with the clearance once everythign was bolted in and locked down. I jus tthought under full power and hard turns there is enough movement to hit the upper control arm. So back to the beginning. PLugged the holes and relocated the fittings. I have maocked up all the acc and AC bracket with the compressor and this will fit. I placed the fittings there with plenty of clearance all around. I will get another shot of this tomorrow with it on the car to show how it fits and how much clearance.
The casating is pretty thin at this point of the WP so I was a little hesitant about drilling and tapping. No problems at all I was happy to report. I did use JB weld to lock it all in place and seal it up as there is only about 3 threads that are engaged. Pretty rock solid and it only has to seal, not supporting anything. The fittings are extremly close to one another but there was clearance to turn and tighten them, it was only thousandths but that is all I needed.
The casating is pretty thin at this point of the WP so I was a little hesitant about drilling and tapping. No problems at all I was happy to report. I did use JB weld to lock it all in place and seal it up as there is only about 3 threads that are engaged. Pretty rock solid and it only has to seal, not supporting anything. The fittings are extremly close to one another but there was clearance to turn and tighten them, it was only thousandths but that is all I needed.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
Got the water pump back on today with some other things. The fittings clear everything just fine. I think I will go with straight fittings off the 45s I have coming out of the pump now. The 45s I have for the hose just don't want to cooperate very well. Straight seems to work better.
Also was working on reloacting the coils. The brackets I bought were for the back of the cylinder head. There is just not enough clearance to do this on my setup. So I made some plates. These are in the location of the stock plates I just made them bigger and out of aluminum stock. I drilled some holes for the brackets. I was able to route the wiring around some so it is out of the way and looks decent. I think I will paint these black also.
Finally just insatlled the valve covers and running some vacuum lines for trial fit.
Also was working on reloacting the coils. The brackets I bought were for the back of the cylinder head. There is just not enough clearance to do this on my setup. So I made some plates. These are in the location of the stock plates I just made them bigger and out of aluminum stock. I drilled some holes for the brackets. I was able to route the wiring around some so it is out of the way and looks decent. I think I will paint these black also.
Finally just insatlled the valve covers and running some vacuum lines for trial fit.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,496
Likes: 6
From: springfield ohio
Looks really good, I like the look of the valve covers with the coil packs missing.
The location you are using for the coil packs, won't they see a lot of heat? I was thinking maybe another aluminum plate bent similar to the heat shield, mounted in front of, and under the coil packs,but only running up to the top of the coil packs, would possibly shield them from some of the heat from those headers, but still allow the coils to shed off any of it's own heat. I think you'll shorten the life span of the coil packs with them seeing a lot of heat.
I was looking at my water pump earlier and seen that I can turn the front (90)fitting downward, to route the hose down and around the control arm and gain quite a bit of clearances from the control arm leaving room for any movement the motor will see from torque. I will have to pull the pump and try this to see if it works.
Riggs
The location you are using for the coil packs, won't they see a lot of heat? I was thinking maybe another aluminum plate bent similar to the heat shield, mounted in front of, and under the coil packs,but only running up to the top of the coil packs, would possibly shield them from some of the heat from those headers, but still allow the coils to shed off any of it's own heat. I think you'll shorten the life span of the coil packs with them seeing a lot of heat.
I was looking at my water pump earlier and seen that I can turn the front (90)fitting downward, to route the hose down and around the control arm and gain quite a bit of clearances from the control arm leaving room for any movement the motor will see from torque. I will have to pull the pump and try this to see if it works.
Riggs
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
I was thinking the same thing on the coil packs. They are about 6 inches away from the header. Think about the engine compartment on the new Vettes and how cramped they are and where the coils are located. They would get a good amount of heat also. When underway mine are always getting a breeze of air. I still might make a sheild of some kind also. It would not be very difficult to do.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,914
Likes: 229
From: Oakbank Manitoba
I think you have the wrong throttle body installed Gordon. Is it the "gold blade" LS3 t body? Depending on which ECM and installed tune you are using you might have trouble with it. The gold blade is from a 2009 and newer Corvette while the silver blade is from 2005 to 2008 Corvettes. What base tune and model of ECM are you using? ECMs 2008 and older can't use the newer gold blade throttle bodies.
For example....the GMPP harnesses and ECMs require the earlier LS2/LS3 throttle bodies with the silver blade. #12570790
Here is a link for you http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...he-ls3-tb.html
I just went back in your posts and saw the pull out engine was from a 2009 Corvette. Let me know what model number is written on the ECM and find out what base tune was used for programing.
For example....the GMPP harnesses and ECMs require the earlier LS2/LS3 throttle bodies with the silver blade. #12570790
Here is a link for you http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...he-ls3-tb.html
I just went back in your posts and saw the pull out engine was from a 2009 Corvette. Let me know what model number is written on the ECM and find out what base tune was used for programing.
Last edited by KENS80V; Dec 23, 2011 at 11:12 PM.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
The ECM is also from the same car. I used everything from the 09 Vette except the wiring harness which i bought from PSI and he assured me it will work. PSI also set the base tune on the 09 computer and just took off all the VATS and all unneeded stuff. These guys are good and if there is any problem they will help me out. They are somewhat local and I also have ECS about 30 minutes away and they will be doing the final tune on the dyno to get it all setup.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
Nothing to exciting today. I did get the new radiator fit in the core support. I was never satisfied with the old mounting of it. Also got the dryer and some of the lines in. AS usual nothing fits correctly or how I wanted it to. So what is a hour job turns into a 4 hour job. Here are a few pictures of the dryer and lines in. The core support in. I left the radiator out right now as not to damage it for a little while.
You can't really see the bracket in here but wha ta royal pita it was to get it set in the correct position and bent correctly so it clears. I have reset the lines also to fit the hole a little better. They did not fit well either.
You can't really see the bracket in here but wha ta royal pita it was to get it set in the correct position and bent correctly so it clears. I have reset the lines also to fit the hole a little better. They did not fit well either.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
There is a big vacuum fitting on the back of the intake manifold that the power brakes would hook to and any other vacuum source. I run a hydroboost so I only need the vacuum for the headlights. I will run a reducer for that line.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
Not a whole lot new. I took some time off over the holidays and went to Cancun for a week. Now back at it. I have the radiator back in and the fans and am rewiring the fans up slightly different than before. I just had my welder buddy come over and he is going to remove the section of header tubing and weld in a bend so it goes around the steering joint. Very similar to what Riggs did to his. This is the best solution. Don't know why it was not done when the headers were made. There is plenty of room inside to route the header. I'll take some recent pictures of it this weekend. I am also rebuilding a rear end right now that should be done this weekend. Many projects not enough time.