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Looks good, did you allow for the carpet and floor mat, as far as the pedal travel, I noticed on mine that it was limited by the carpet, buy only slightly though. I ended up shimming the pedal assembly away from the fire wall with two 1/4'' shims I made out of steel.
I haven't done much on mine lately, I been to busy taking care of other things, How ever the high light of my weekend was I went to a salvage yard that I've never been to, to pick up a used Hydro booster for the output push rod, I'll use the old booster as a core return.
Some people think I'm nuts for saying that the trip to the junk yard is the high light of my week end, but seriously it was pretty cool to see a yard that still has some of the older 60's and 70's cars and trucks.
Hey while I am thinking about it, the place you have used for reprogramming the ECU, Can they do a mail order tune for a motor that has and upgraded cam and heads setup that would be close enough to run for the first 500 mile break in and debugging period. What did they charge you? I've got two sources, the first one has not responded to my emails and the second one, which is a local group, I believe will only Dyno tune the car, which I don't want to do until the transmission has gone through it's recommended break in period of 500 miles.
Riggs, I do not run any floor mats for just that reason. The ybunch up and get caught on things. Just a PIA for me so I just run the carpet. I did leave enough room under the pedal but won"t be sure until I get the carpet back in. It will be quite easy if I have to shim it out a little. Definitly one of the first things I will check once the carpet is in.
As for the computer. The company is called PSI. I'll PM you all the info on them as they are not a supporting vendor here and I'm not sure on the rules. They took all the not needed stuff out of the computer and did a base tune on the computer. They did recomend once it was up and running and everything is working to take it to a tuner and have a final tune in order to get the most out of it.
Can't believe I just saw this thread. Very nice work gordan! You should check out Cartek for a tune since you are local. PSI (I believe that's the one in PA, correct?) tuned a friend's car and it made significantly less power than when we brought it to Cartek. It also ran a lot leaner which scared him. Anyone who has been around LS's can vouch for Cartek
Yes Cartek does excellent work. I have seen and experienced first hand some of their work. I will probably use ECS since I know those guys and they are pretty close to me. PSI is not a tuner, at least the one I used. They do make the wiring harnes and will work on the computer to give it a general tune and take out all the stuff tha tis not needed. Like Vats and the second set of O2 sensors. PSI is located in Toms River NJ.
MGW shifter came today. It is kind of a different shifter as the bottom is a Camaro shifter and the top of it is a Corvette. I called and they said they could do this and have had a couple of calls for some different shifters like this. The trans is from an 06 GTO and I had to change the shifter pivot which there is a picture of. The GTO one is quite a bit longer so the Camaro shifter will not work.
This is the piece I had to change. The GTO one is longer and the GTO shifters are a totally different shifter.
Shifter just bolted on to see how it fits and moves. Very positive feel.
Little set back today. Remember this picture of the new roller bearing installed in the crank? This is the bigger bearing they now use in trucks and in the LS7 motors. So when I ordered the Monster clutch I thought it would be better. Wrong!!!! The LS7 is Corvette specific and not friendly when using a T56 from a rear wheel drive car. I got the trans up and almost in but it would not go the last 1/8 inch. After much back and forth it felt and sounded like it was bottoming out. The splines of the input shaft were bumping on the pilot bearing. After removing and much measuring I confirmed this is a no go. I called my brother in law and he remembers having the same issue with his LS7 and a Rockland Gear T56. He had to go back to the standard smaller size one. So the clutch is back out and I have to get a regular pilot bearing and put it in. I did manage to get the motor back in today so that is a little progress. One step forward and a few back.
Isn't all this trial and error bs great to deal with, it some times gets to be a little aggravating to deal with. What makes it worth all the pain these LS swaps create, is knowing how sweat it will be once it's done.
I have made very little progress on mine, but I did a few things last night, one of which was, I changed out the 1/2'' NPT 45 degree fitting for a 90 so it would clear the control arm better, I wasn't sure how yours was fitting, it would all depend on the set back placement with the motor mounts.
I have made very little progress on mine, but I did a few things last night, one of which was, I changed out the 1/2'' NPT 45 degree fitting for a 90 so it would clear the control arm better, I wasn't sure how yours was fitting, it would all depend on the set back placement with the motor mounts.
Riggs.
It looks tight but I will wait until I get the trans bolted up and the crossmemeber mount set so I can see how everything sets in. It cleared before with room to spare on the mock up but as you know things grow and shrink when finally bolted in.
A note on the pump. A 45 degree was rubbing the upper A arm.
My solution. I also made both heater hoses the same size (5/8" I think), to work with the Vintage Air.
Any reason you went with 6 point flywheel bolts instead of the typical 12?
Those are the stock GM flywheel bolts. It is what came with the clutch so I used them. Usually use ARP but these hold up well under some pretty high Hp cars.
New pilot bearing is installed and everything went back in smoothly. Trans and motor are now in. Hopefully permanantly now. Note to anyone doing this do not use the LS7 style pilot bearing.
The flywheel is a billit 18 pound wheel. The lighter weight one that they sell. Indexing these is near impossible. The so called hole is not perfectly round and it is so broken up tough to get the indicator to go around it. Never heard anyone having any issues and I used a Quick Time bellhousing which I have heard is machined quite well. Here you can see the bellhousing. There is no bearing retainer on the T56
There's a guy over on the Pro-Touring website that is zeroing in his T56 bellhousing. He figured something out.
G,
You can still do it with a dial indicator, but it is a pain in the butt. My Quick Time housing was not within specs and I had to use offest pins. It took me the whole freaking afternoon to get it dialed in, but now it's spot on. These trans are not forgiving if they are not near perfect on alignment and it would be a shame if it did not shift nice and smooth for ya. Give me a shout and we can discuss if you want.