Headlights will not close properly
#1
Headlights will not close properly
After replacing all the hoses and confirming they are installed correct and trying three different switches, the headlights will not go down by the headlight switch (unless I pull the release under the steering column). It is a 1975
thanks in advance for the help
thanks in advance for the help
Last edited by rbat; 01-23-2012 at 10:16 PM.
#2
Team Owner
Vacuum leak(s) in hoses, cracked hose(s), leak in tank, low vacuum level from engine (10" Hg or less) are possibilities.
But, the most likely problem is that the vacuum relay(s) that direct vacuum to the headlight servos has internal leakage. You can test this by bypassing them altogether.
The Yellow striped hose is the main vacuum supply going to the center nipple on the relay. Pull that hose off the relay and run it to the headlight servo (either UP or DOWN). The light bucket should respond quickly, if the light switch is ON and override is not pulled and if you have adequate vacuum level. {Note: If you have a relay for each side, you may want to remove that Yellow-striped hose from the other relay and block it off during this test.} If that works OK, then run that hose to the other nipple on the servo to see if it works OK in the other direction. Then do the same testing for the other headlight.
When done with this test, you should know if your vacuum level is adequate and if the vacuum relays need replaced. I have actually come up with a method of refurbishing original units...as long as the shuttle valve (inside) is merely worn...but not deteriorated. However, I'm not sure the effort to achieve that solution is justified when you can buy a new one for about $60.
But, the most likely problem is that the vacuum relay(s) that direct vacuum to the headlight servos has internal leakage. You can test this by bypassing them altogether.
The Yellow striped hose is the main vacuum supply going to the center nipple on the relay. Pull that hose off the relay and run it to the headlight servo (either UP or DOWN). The light bucket should respond quickly, if the light switch is ON and override is not pulled and if you have adequate vacuum level. {Note: If you have a relay for each side, you may want to remove that Yellow-striped hose from the other relay and block it off during this test.} If that works OK, then run that hose to the other nipple on the servo to see if it works OK in the other direction. Then do the same testing for the other headlight.
When done with this test, you should know if your vacuum level is adequate and if the vacuum relays need replaced. I have actually come up with a method of refurbishing original units...as long as the shuttle valve (inside) is merely worn...but not deteriorated. However, I'm not sure the effort to achieve that solution is justified when you can buy a new one for about $60.
#3
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Mar 2008
Location: Oxford MA-----You just lost the game!!!!
Posts: 5,948
Likes: 0
Received 62 Likes
on
52 Posts
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...tem-works.html
Edit: Wait a minute, you say you pull the little **** under the steering wheel to get them to come down? That's supposed to make them stay up. You may have something hooked up backwards.
Scott
Last edited by scottyp99; 01-24-2012 at 07:59 AM.
#4
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: Westminster Maryland
Posts: 30,173
Likes: 0
Received 2,878 Likes
on
2,515 Posts
Hi r,
In 71 the hose hook-up to the dash headlight switch was shown incorrectly in the AIM, and elsewhere. Depending on what schematic you followed to check the hose locations, you might have hooked them up incorrectly.
The BLUE striped hose coming from the bottom nipple on the over-ride switch connects to the FRONT nipple on the headlight switch.
Could that be your problem?
Regards,
Alan
In 71 the hose hook-up to the dash headlight switch was shown incorrectly in the AIM, and elsewhere. Depending on what schematic you followed to check the hose locations, you might have hooked them up incorrectly.
The BLUE striped hose coming from the bottom nipple on the over-ride switch connects to the FRONT nipple on the headlight switch.
Could that be your problem?
Regards,
Alan
#5
the car was apart
If they worked fine before, and you replaced the hoses, and now, suddenly they don't work, you don't have to be a rocket surgeon to put 2 and 2 together and get 4. My first instinct would be to re-check the hose installations. Here is a link that should help you out if you don't already have it.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...tem-works.html
Edit: Wait a minute, you say you pull the little **** under the steering wheel to get them to come down? That's supposed to make them stay up. You may have something hooked up backwards.
Scott
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...tem-works.html
Edit: Wait a minute, you say you pull the little **** under the steering wheel to get them to come down? That's supposed to make them stay up. You may have something hooked up backwards.
Scott
thanks
#6
Vacuum leak(s) in hoses, cracked hose(s), leak in tank, low vacuum level from engine (10" Hg or less) are possibilities.
But, the most likely problem is that the vacuum relay(s) that direct vacuum to the headlight servos has internal leakage. You can test this by bypassing them altogether.
The Yellow striped hose is the main vacuum supply going to the center nipple on the relay. Pull that hose off the relay and run it to the headlight servo (either UP or DOWN). The light bucket should respond quickly, if the light switch is ON and override is not pulled and if you have adequate vacuum level. {Note: If you have a relay for each side, you may want to remove that Yellow-striped hose from the other relay and block it off during this test.} If that works OK, then run that hose to the other nipple on the servo to see if it works OK in the other direction. Then do the same testing for the other headlight.
When done with this test, you should know if your vacuum level is adequate and if the vacuum relays need replaced. I have actually come up with a method of refurbishing original units...as long as the shuttle valve (inside) is merely worn...but not deteriorated. However, I'm not sure the effort to achieve that solution is justified when you can buy a new one for about $60.
But, the most likely problem is that the vacuum relay(s) that direct vacuum to the headlight servos has internal leakage. You can test this by bypassing them altogether.
The Yellow striped hose is the main vacuum supply going to the center nipple on the relay. Pull that hose off the relay and run it to the headlight servo (either UP or DOWN). The light bucket should respond quickly, if the light switch is ON and override is not pulled and if you have adequate vacuum level. {Note: If you have a relay for each side, you may want to remove that Yellow-striped hose from the other relay and block it off during this test.} If that works OK, then run that hose to the other nipple on the servo to see if it works OK in the other direction. Then do the same testing for the other headlight.
When done with this test, you should know if your vacuum level is adequate and if the vacuum relays need replaced. I have actually come up with a method of refurbishing original units...as long as the shuttle valve (inside) is merely worn...but not deteriorated. However, I'm not sure the effort to achieve that solution is justified when you can buy a new one for about $60.
#7
Team Owner
Member Since: Jun 2000
Location: Southbound
Posts: 38,928
Likes: 0
Received 1,469 Likes
on
1,248 Posts
Cruise-In II Veteran