Project 69-LS3
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Yes, it´s time for a update...
The rear end is here almost completed.
After a few more hours it looks like this, the frame is finished...
Now it´s time for the body.
The doors and the door gaps did not fit like the should, so i had to do some work on them...
After a few hours...
The same work was done on the other door gaps.
Now is the gaps on the decklid next i line to be reworked and the the gaps around the lights...
The rear end is here almost completed.
After a few more hours it looks like this, the frame is finished...
Now it´s time for the body.
The doors and the door gaps did not fit like the should, so i had to do some work on them...
After a few hours...
The same work was done on the other door gaps.
Now is the gaps on the decklid next i line to be reworked and the the gaps around the lights...
Last edited by BB502; Nov 25, 2012 at 04:36 PM.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
I have not bought any bolt kits, all the bolt is the original bolts but i have clean them and had them coated ( a few was to rusty so i bought new ones i my local hardware store )
I bought a straight thermostat housing on Ebay, it was the easiest solution.
Last edited by BB502; Nov 26, 2012 at 07:03 AM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 845
Likes: 12
From: LAKE BARRINGTON IL
thank you for the answers!
when you lifted the body off the frame...did you just pull the 6 or so body bolts and lift it? or did you disassemble the body to parrtially reassemble it for your lift?
Thanks,
R
when you lifted the body off the frame...did you just pull the 6 or so body bolts and lift it? or did you disassemble the body to parrtially reassemble it for your lift?
Thanks,
R
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,886
Likes: 9
Thanks " ´75 "
I forgot to show this picture of the new pulley to the steering pump, there is no problem now with the pulley hitting the control arm. ( but i cut the bolt on the control arm , just for safety)
The pulley is a modified pulley from a Saab...
The frame is ready to be reassenbled again.
I made new brake lines:
The engine was painted chevy orange:
The control arms was rebuild with poly bushings:
I purchased a set of Coilovers:
The front end is almost finished:
I´m making my own version of the Steeriod rack and pinion kit ( the steering rack is from a Saab 9-3 ), mounted in brackets i have made:
I haven´t decided if i should go with these brakes (I must use 18" wheels or bigger ) or if i should use standard size brakes so i can use 15" rally wheels if i want to:
The engine is back in the frame again:
I made a bracket on the engineblock so i can use the original clutch likange:
This is so far i have come ( i´m from Sweden so you have to excuse the spelling...)
I forgot to show this picture of the new pulley to the steering pump, there is no problem now with the pulley hitting the control arm. ( but i cut the bolt on the control arm , just for safety)
The pulley is a modified pulley from a Saab...
The frame is ready to be reassenbled again.
I made new brake lines:
The engine was painted chevy orange:
The control arms was rebuild with poly bushings:
I purchased a set of Coilovers:
The front end is almost finished:
I´m making my own version of the Steeriod rack and pinion kit ( the steering rack is from a Saab 9-3 ), mounted in brackets i have made:
I haven´t decided if i should go with these brakes (I must use 18" wheels or bigger ) or if i should use standard size brakes so i can use 15" rally wheels if i want to:
The engine is back in the frame again:
I made a bracket on the engineblock so i can use the original clutch likange:
This is so far i have come ( i´m from Sweden so you have to excuse the spelling...)
Those brake lines look to be copper. I hope they are not copper. Copper work hardens from vibration, gets brittle and can crack.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 4,363
Likes: 1,588
From: los altos hills california
Agree with gcusmano about the copper, bad idea. I put SS in for gas and brake lines and the pre-formed lines weren't all that good a fit. Bending them to make them fit was a PITA. After 40+ years my factory steel lines were in pretty good shape so (my two cents) I would recommend you use steel, not stainless steel and not copper.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,037
Likes: 14
From: Mobile Alabama
Agree with gcusmano about the copper, bad idea. I put SS in for gas and brake lines and the pre-formed lines weren't all that good a fit. Bending them to make them fit was a PITA. After 40+ years my factory steel lines were in pretty good shape so (my two cents) I would recommend you use steel, not stainless steel and not copper.
http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performan...11534/10002/-1
http://store.fedhillusa.com/?gclid=C...FQWnnQodbUMANw
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...eywordless--ad
Last edited by 74modified; Nov 29, 2012 at 04:45 PM.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
They are probably Cunifer lines, very common on European cars. Much easier to form than steel, much much better than stainless. A copper/nickle alloy that is DOT approved and does not corrode. I have used it and it is great stuff.
http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performan...11534/10002/-1
http://store.fedhillusa.com/?gclid=C...FQWnnQodbUMANw
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...eywordless--ad
http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performan...11534/10002/-1
http://store.fedhillusa.com/?gclid=C...FQWnnQodbUMANw
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...eywordless--ad
Yes, i´m using copper/nickle brakelines.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 845
Likes: 12
From: LAKE BARRINGTON IL
BB502,
wondering how you got the body off so nicely and together on your lift...
did you just pull the body bolts and lift it?
or did you disassemble the body to partially reassemble it for your lift?
thanks,
R
wondering how you got the body off so nicely and together on your lift...
did you just pull the body bolts and lift it?
or did you disassemble the body to partially reassemble it for your lift?
thanks,
R
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
When i pulled the body i just used my engine hoist, but that hoist do not lift straight up so the body scraped a little against the frame, but i didn´t care at that point.
But when i had the frame finished i didn't want it to be scraped so i had to build another lift.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 845
Likes: 12
From: LAKE BARRINGTON IL
BB 502
What upgrades/kind are you doing?
I see the Brembo....which kit?
anything with suspension?
Planning on starting my frame-off in June, and am starting to look into upgrading/resto-modding plans.
Thanks,
R
What upgrades/kind are you doing?
I see the Brembo....which kit?
anything with suspension?
Planning on starting my frame-off in June, and am starting to look into upgrading/resto-modding plans.
Thanks,
R