Trailing Arm Hell
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
Removing the TA's is much easier if you use a elongated nut,the kind of nut that is used when you want to connect 2 lengths of threaded rod together, then screw two bolts all the way into the nut and position the assembely into the TA pocket in the frame. Then back out the bolts so they spread the walls of the pocket about a 1/16 of an inch. The TA's and all the shims can be removed quite easily reinstall TA's and shims in reverse. Remember to keep track of the shims so they or their replacment shims can be reinstalled to their original position. 3/8ths or 1/2 inch thread size should work.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 987
Likes: 7
From: Surrey British Columbia
Hmmm... I cornered the Sawall's Blade market when I removed my T.A.s. I torched the rubber bushings as well which helped. In the end it was all for not. The T.A.'s were too badly corroded to reuse. So was my frame (oddly enough, everything else on the car was is decent shape except for the frame).
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 5,339
Likes: 546
From: Central Texas
Removing the TA's is much easier if you use a elongated nut,the kind of nut that is used when you want to connect 2 lengths of threaded rod together, then screw two bolts all the way into the nut and position the assembely into the TA pocket in the frame. Then back out the bolts so they spread the walls of the pocket about a 1/16 of an inch. The TA's and all the shims can be removed quite easily reinstall TA's and shims in reverse. Remember to keep track of the shims so they or their replacment shims can be reinstalled to their original position. 3/8ths or 1/2 inch thread size should work.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 850
Likes: 36
From: Providence RI
Went through the same nightmare myself last year. After wearing out a bunch of metal sawsall blades I tried one of those blades designed for cast iron pipe that has no teeth but has a bunch of abrasive grit instead. It went right through the bolt without any problem at all. 
Wish I used it first. Oh well..Live and learn!!!!
Wish I used it first. Oh well..Live and learn!!!!Corvette Stories
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Drifting
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 1,952
Likes: 6
From: Palos Verdes Peninsula California
I just finished tearing the *** end out of my '81 for suspension rebuilding. I've got to say that all of the horror stories that I have read about removing the trailing arms were correct. 
I was fortunate enough to pound the shock mounts out very easily. I felt blessed. Then on to the rusted shims and frozen front mounting bolts. I knocked on the bolts enough to know that those bad boys were not going to come out easily. So off to the Depot for a large supply of Sawzall blades. These bolts and shims had been soaking in penetrating oil for a few days. I guess that didn't matter. Seven Sawzall blades, many body (mine) nicks and scratches, lots of verbal abuse, and four hours later...those bitches were out!
I'd like to first thank the members of the C3 Tech Forum for preparing me for this mentally.
Secondly I'd like to thank my neighbors for not reacting to my many loud outbursts of profanity.
I was fortunate enough to pound the shock mounts out very easily. I felt blessed. Then on to the rusted shims and frozen front mounting bolts. I knocked on the bolts enough to know that those bad boys were not going to come out easily. So off to the Depot for a large supply of Sawzall blades. These bolts and shims had been soaking in penetrating oil for a few days. I guess that didn't matter. Seven Sawzall blades, many body (mine) nicks and scratches, lots of verbal abuse, and four hours later...those bitches were out!
I'd like to first thank the members of the C3 Tech Forum for preparing me for this mentally.
Secondly I'd like to thank my neighbors for not reacting to my many loud outbursts of profanity.
Racer
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 284
Likes: 4
From: Philadelphia Pennsylvania
this picture nicely illustrates my current trailing arm rage. I spoke too soon in another thread when I said "the pivot bolt came right out". It actually came out most of the way and spins/slides freely but for the life of my I can't get it out the rest of the way. I can't fit any tools in the little pocket to grab the bolt head and I can't push the bolt through because there's about 1" of body panel in the way. I'm gonna try getting a really long thin pair of pliers to grip the bolt head to get it that last bit out of the trailing arm.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 7,804
Likes: 4
From: Standing still with all my might Texas
Cruise-In X Veteran
St. Jude Donor '09-'11
Can you get a vice grip on the exposed bolt shaft (the part where you have the line drawn and labeled "bolt 80% out")?
If so, clamp a vice grip tightly on it then you can
the side of the vice grip and hopefully get the bolt to move. If that doesn't work you might be able to fit a pickle for in there and use the vice grip to pry against.
If so, clamp a vice grip tightly on it then you can
the side of the vice grip and hopefully get the bolt to move. If that doesn't work you might be able to fit a pickle for in there and use the vice grip to pry against.
Racer
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 284
Likes: 4
From: Philadelphia Pennsylvania
Can you get a vice grip on the exposed bolt shaft (the part where you have the line drawn and labeled "bolt 80% out")?
If so, clamp a vice grip tightly on it then you can the side of the vice grip and hopefully get the bolt to move. If that doesn't work you might be able to fit a pickle for in there and use the vice grip to pry against.
If so, clamp a vice grip tightly on it then you can
the side of the vice grip and hopefully get the bolt to move. If that doesn't work you might be able to fit a pickle for in there and use the vice grip to pry against.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,483
Likes: 459
From: Lititz PA
Working on these old Vettes is one of those things that our Fathers told us "Builds Character". A year from now, after you've done a lot more to your Vette, you may look back and say "Trailing Arms? they weren't so bad". The Bird Cage, or Ball Joints, or the Dash wiring, now THAT was BAD!
Happy to hear you're making progress,
John
Happy to hear you're making progress,
John
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,663
Likes: 162
From: columbia city in
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 825
Likes: 40
From: Glasgow, Scotland
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 5,339
Likes: 546
From: Central Texas
Update
Now everything is back together. She's cruising down the road again.
I put the trailing arm bolts back in by attaching fishing line to the bolt and pulling the bolt through. WHAT A TIP THAT WAS! Now the "hell" is long gone but the memory remains. The payoff was worth the pain.
The trailing arms were rebuilt by tracdogg2 to perfection. The car handles like a dream. I had the rear alignment set this week. Putting anti-seize on the shims helped the technician get the newly installed shims out for readjustment.
Now it's on to the front suspension. I've purchased all Moog replacement parts. Let the "hell" begin...
I put the trailing arm bolts back in by attaching fishing line to the bolt and pulling the bolt through. WHAT A TIP THAT WAS! Now the "hell" is long gone but the memory remains. The payoff was worth the pain.
The trailing arms were rebuilt by tracdogg2 to perfection. The car handles like a dream. I had the rear alignment set this week. Putting anti-seize on the shims helped the technician get the newly installed shims out for readjustment.
Now it's on to the front suspension. I've purchased all Moog replacement parts. Let the "hell" begin...