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I just finished tearing the *** end out of my '81 for suspension rebuilding. I've got to say that all of the horror stories that I have read about removing the trailing arms were correct.
I was fortunate enough to pound the shock mounts out very easily. I felt blessed. Then on to the rusted shims and frozen front mounting bolts. I knocked on the bolts enough to know that those bad boys were not going to come out easily. So off to the Depot for a large supply of Sawzall blades. These bolts and shims had been soaking in penetrating oil for a few days. I guess that didn't matter. Seven Sawzall blades, many body (mine) nicks and scratches, lots of verbal abuse, and four hours later...those bitches were out!
I'd like to first thank the members of the C3 Tech Forum for preparing me for this mentally.
Secondly I'd like to thank my neighbors for not reacting to my many loud outbursts of profanity.
Just wait, the fun ain't over, putting them back in isn't a peach either.
Much easier than removal, I have a trick my wife gave me for installation, jewelry wire, trough the bolt hole, strong enough to pull thin enough not to get in the way.
Congrats most do come out the hard way. I've learned over the years to focus on removing one of the thicker shims,once its out the others will come out,then you only have to sawzall the bolt.
I just pulled both of mine too. Tapped out the shock mounts, front bolts weren't frozen, but the shims were hell. Only thing that was a pain for me was the brake lines. New hoses from the frame and new hardlines are waiting for the trailing arms to get back from Vtech. Also have stainless shims that I bought for another Vette years ago that I never used.
Congratulations on your success, your have become a member of the fraternal order of knucklebusters!!
Before going straight to the sazall, I have used a three pound slide-hammer to pull one or more shims. You may need to make your own attachment to the hammer, but worth the effort IMO. Usually, the shims are rust frozen together and sometimes come out in a cluster with the slide hammer. If you can get one or more shims out, it makes the sazall much easier.
Read all the horror stories and felt totally blessed when it all came right apart.
I learned from my GTO that rust free cars are a lot easier on the language. It was a NE car and every nut and bolt was rusted. What a PITA. I said never again and bought a Corvette from Texas
Went through the same nightmare myself last year. After wearing out a bunch of metal sawsall blades I tried one of those blades designed for cast iron pipe that has no teeth but has a bunch of abrasive grit instead. It went right through the bolt without any problem at all. Wish I used it first. Oh well..Live and learn!!!!
This car was bought in Arkansas but supposedly came from California.
Pulling the shims out first was definitely the way to go. A slide hammer puller would have done wonders. THEN cut the bolts. Without PB Blaster penetrating oil the job probably would have taken much longer.
OK fellow enthusiasts. What tips are needed to put the trailing arms back in? I've read about the fishing line or jewelry wire. I'm prepared for almost anything now!
I just installed the VBP Performance Plus Suspension, ( check out my Album ) the hardest part of the whole process were the trailing arms. What I ended up doing was going to Harbor Freight and purchase a Long neck airgun for $14.00 and a carbide bit .A long nose electric grinder will also work. Bolts were out in literally 3 mins each. I had gone thur 3 saw blades before and didn't enen make a scratch, these are Grade "8" bolts nasty on saw blades. I know that you are done , but maybe this will help the next guy.
To install the trailing arm bolts, I used an extra long pair of needle nose pliers. This was recommended by Van Steel and it makes it very easy.
John
that is how I did mine. BTW when i removed mine one came out with no problems but one sure did give a me a hard time and a few blades before it was finally out.