Stingray Side Emblems Install
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 294
Likes: 1
From: Racine Wisconsin
Stingray Side Emblems Install
I removed the Stingray script side emblems (as well as all other trim) for a trip to the paint shop. The Stingray emblems are in good shape. One of the four pins was broken off long ago but the pin may be redundant with the adhesive. I plan to clean these up and reinstall them. There was a stringy black adhesive on the back of the emblems that easily came off with mineral spirits. The adhesive reminded me of weatherstrip adhesive. I notice that modern replacements have what looks like a foam adhesive die cut to match the script. Lacking the die cut foam adhesive, what would be the best way to duplicate the GM adhesive? I was thinking of using some black RTV Form-a-Gasket. The 3M weatherstrip may also work. Any ideas or experiences? Thanks.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,168
Likes: 4,245
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi7.....,
Originally there was the black die cut adhesive you may be seeing remnants of.
I believe there were no speed nuts used on 69-72 cars.
But, you could certainly use a couple on each script.
Regards,
Alan
Originally there was the black die cut adhesive you may be seeing remnants of.
I believe there were no speed nuts used on 69-72 cars.
But, you could certainly use a couple on each script.
Regards,
Alan
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 969
Likes: 1
From: NJ
When I bought my '70 those emblems were not being held in place by anything. I guess previous owner didnt use anything after the paint job and they stayed in place just fine. I did get some speed nuts so they will go on soon.
Racer
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 420
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I just put l82 emblems on my 74 could not find double sided tape so used a clear general glue from a parts store looks good no mess when u put it on u have to hold it in place for about 5 min so it grabs after that its on there really good
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,030
Likes: 363
From: Lubbock Texas
If I am remembering correctly, many moons ago on this forum someone posted the part number for a 3M double sided tape that was specifically for emblem reattachment. I have used 3M black weatherstrip adhesive on other cars in the past with good results.
DC
DC
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 294
Likes: 1
From: Racine Wisconsin
As a matter of fact, I only found one speed nut. The other pins appeared to never have had them installed. Lots of options. Thanks everyone.
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Racer
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 427
Likes: 1
From my recollection those emblem 'stud's were secured by what the body shop industry called 'barrel nuts' They had nothing to do with a nut that would thread onto the stud but a 'sleeve' that was inserted into a drilled hole in the body then inserted to accomodate the stud as it was shoved into the sleeve. There were 'grip tips' that would prevent the emblem from working it's self away from the body.
We used many adhesives to secure emblems. I avoided the 'black goop' on the back of the emblem as for most cases it still looked like 'black goop' when the emblem was in place. The thin script of 'Cutlass' looked like hell.
We used 3M double sided adhesive tape and cut out around or in between the emblem letters. Very time consuming. 3M had a thinner clear tape to secure the emblem but it was quite thin to try to cut around.
I would suggest to go to what the AIM manual called for and duplicate.
Good luck.
We used many adhesives to secure emblems. I avoided the 'black goop' on the back of the emblem as for most cases it still looked like 'black goop' when the emblem was in place. The thin script of 'Cutlass' looked like hell.
We used 3M double sided adhesive tape and cut out around or in between the emblem letters. Very time consuming. 3M had a thinner clear tape to secure the emblem but it was quite thin to try to cut around.
I would suggest to go to what the AIM manual called for and duplicate.
Good luck.
8th Gear
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
I used a double sided tape from the home improvement store that is used to hold floor laminate down where 2 edges but together. I just stuck it to the emblem and use an exacto kinfe to trim to shape. I then stuck it to the car after pulling off the backing. It has been holding for over a year now with no problems
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,114
From: Crossville TN
Whatever you use, it should be safe for the paint surface and it should also provide a 'cushion' so that the emblem does not vibrate against the paint and cause abrasion. You need to be able to remove that emblem and adhesive without damage to the paint.
I would highly recommend that you install at least 2 of the speed nuts on emblem pins to retain it securely. You don't need to tighten them too much...just enough to keep it snugged down. Those pins aren't very strong, anyway.
When I refurbished those 'script' side emblems, I found it IMPOSSIBLE to repaint them as the originals were (only the "background" section painted black). So, I chemically stripped the emblems, sprayed satin-black paint on all of it, then used an X-acto knife to peel off the semi-hardened paint from just the top surface of the lettering. They look a bit different than the originals....but I actually like them better!
I would highly recommend that you install at least 2 of the speed nuts on emblem pins to retain it securely. You don't need to tighten them too much...just enough to keep it snugged down. Those pins aren't very strong, anyway.
When I refurbished those 'script' side emblems, I found it IMPOSSIBLE to repaint them as the originals were (only the "background" section painted black). So, I chemically stripped the emblems, sprayed satin-black paint on all of it, then used an X-acto knife to peel off the semi-hardened paint from just the top surface of the lettering. They look a bit different than the originals....but I actually like them better!
Last edited by 7T1vette; Jun 21, 2013 at 04:23 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2013
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From: Central Wisconsin
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Kissimmee fl
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The thing about the script emblems is they usually trap dirt and wax and get really hard to clean around.
A thin "washer" cut from a piece of proper sized vacuum tube slid over the studs, and then speed nuts or a short length of vacuum tube over the studs once installed, allows for quick removal for clean-ups and keeps paint damage to a minimun.
A thin "washer" cut from a piece of proper sized vacuum tube slid over the studs, and then speed nuts or a short length of vacuum tube over the studs once installed, allows for quick removal for clean-ups and keeps paint damage to a minimun.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,206
Likes: 365
From: The Motor City
But, respectfully I couldn't help notice that a couple of the "resourceful" solutions are probably going to end up back here as bona fide "Bubba's Bible" posts by their next care-takers... pass the the chisel, please.
Just say'n