Top end build l48
I will just order the kit. Its proven and made to work together. 375hp and 400lbs ft of torque is awesome. Also already have exhaust done. It is meant for my carb. It is also cheaper to buy the kit with proven results then put together a random one, cost more, and hope they work together.
Last edited by Planbmatt1; Jun 20, 2013 at 11:12 AM.


http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Flo-Te...lug,25118.html
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Flo-Te...lug,25117.html
Scott


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sme-k-375-400
It comes with everything needed and it is all guaranteed to work together. It is rated at 375hp and 400 torque. Right around what I wanted. I read the speedway heads intake dosen't match well with gaskets also.
Also is meant for a 750 cfm carb which i have 600 cfm carb. Will that be fine? They have a kit 25 hp down meant for my carb.
So should I just save up for this kit?
1.) If you look at that Car Craft article I gave you a link too, the one that compared the different heads, you will see that the kit you are thinking of buying uses the same camshaft and heads that they use in the test. Your engine will be very similar to that engine, just with less compression. Might give you a better idea of what you are getting into.
2.) The intake manifold provided in that kit will not take a Q-jet. You'll need to buy a square bore carb. A cheap way out of this may be to look for an old Holley 3310 (750 CFM vacuum secondary) and rebuild it.
3.) Here's a tip: Look up the individual prices for each component of the kit, and add them together. It might end up being a little less than the cost of the kit to order each piece individually. Summit seems to think that, instead of giving you a package deal, they should charge you a little extra for the convenience of the kit.
4.) The head gaskets that come with that kit will not be .015" thick. Probably more like .042" thick. There goes about a half a point of compression, which you will need for that big cam. Plan on spending a little extra to get the thin head gaskets, they'll be worth it.
5.)Speaking of cams, I think that cam is a little too much for what you are looking to do. You'll need a higher stall converter, more compression, and more gear out back for it to work well. This kit may be a better option for you:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sm...-400/overview/
Scott
Last edited by scottyp99; Jun 20, 2013 at 02:57 PM.



Scott



That looks like a pretty good deal, there, man, good luck with it,
Scott
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts




Scott
Last edited by scottyp99; Jun 21, 2013 at 10:33 AM.
Also i thought they did because there site said everything else needed is rocker arms and a gasket so I just though they came with pushrods. Or else they would of said and you need pushrods.
cam & lifters: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lun-10120702lk
heads: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Flo-Te...lug,25118.html
gasket: http://www.northernautoparts.com/Pro...tModelId=22765
timing chain: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cl...make/chevrolet
intake manifold: 2101 intake manifold from forum user
rocker arms: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...make/chevrolet
would this be everything? puts me at $1000
Last edited by Planbmatt1; Jun 21, 2013 at 01:12 PM.


http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-p...-manifold.html
Yeah, I've never heard of heads being sold with pushrods. You will find that, in this hobby, most people selling things assume a certain level of familiarity with the product. You can't make assumptions like that. Forums like this are where you go with "dumb questions" like that!
Scott


cam & lifters: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lun-10120702lk
heads: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Flo-Te...lug,25118.html
gasket: http://www.northernautoparts.com/Pro...tModelId=22765
timing chain: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cl...make/chevrolet
intake manifold: 2101 intake manifold from forum user
rocker arms: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...make/chevrolet
would this be everything? puts me at $1000
Now what you need to think about is what can/should be done, as long as the whole thing is apart anyway. You are going to have to remove the fuel pump and fuel pump pushrod, so you should think about a new fuel pump, fuel pump pushrod, and rubber fuel lines that connect the fuel pump to the hard fuel lines. (there is a good chance that you will destroy the 35+ year old rubber fuel lines while removing them.) Another thing to think about, is the fact that once you have the whole front of the engine off, it's not that much more trouble to break the center link, drop the oil pan, and replace the oil pump and rear main seal. Maybe even drop a main cap and take a look at the bearings. (the number 1 bearing will tell the tale, as it's the farthest from the oil pump.) then seal her back up with a Felpro one piece oil pan gasket. Another benefit of doing this, is that it is easier to get a good seal between the oil pan and timing cover, if you install the timing cover first, and the oil pan second. None of it is mandatory, (although I would almost consider the new fuel lines mandatory) but it's all a really good idea, "while you're at it....."
Scott







