I have a AIM but was wondering what items need to be in place before windshield install. It looks like the t-top corner trims should be in place due to the tight fit on the install screws, anything else?

Thanks, Kevin

 

It kinda depends on if You are going to use the double stick tape (OEM) or the more modern Adhesives. For sure with the OEM tape you want to make a trial run, screwing the Moldings in place and checking out the clearance between the Glass. With Adhesives You can just go for it and hope that once the moldings are in place You can still move the Glass around enough to get the clearance with the moldings the way you want it.

 

Hi Kevin,
The windshield header corner moldings are the only thing I can think of.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan

I recommend a test fit of the glass to determine how far it needs to be held off the windshield frame in order for the 2 a-pillar ss trim pieces to fit against the glass without a gap. It's extra work but usually worth the effort.

Added: GB, you beat me to it!

 

Check on the integrity of your molding clips that are across the top frame section. If they are bad...I would replace them now.

For what it is worth:

Also...be aware that you need to be careful on what you apply to the metal frame BEFORE the windshield goes in. Having too many different layers of materials on the area that the urethane will adhere to is and/or can be dangerous. The reason is shear strength. Procedure on today's cars is not to apply paint/clear to the pinch-weld where the urethane is going to be applied. The pinch-weld can either be left bare steel (and the installer will apply the primer required to the bare steel) or it can be primed with an approved primer. The idea is not to get too many mils of material...or several layers of different products that can shear off of each other in a crash. I am just mentioning what is now an APPROVED standard. And you can do whatever you want...but many/most approved glass installers will follow the standard due to their liability if anything were to go wrong in a collision. I know my guy is a "stickler" and I know what I need do to...regardless that when your car was manufactured...the windshield was not designed, engineered and crash tested as a part of the structure. Most if not all of the bonded in glass in vehicles today are a part of structure..



Hate to say it...but GM DID NOT use butly tape (double stick as like you mentioned) on windshields. It was a material that cured much like the urethane's of today. This is not an opinion...but fact. It clearly states it in the AIM. Back glass' for the 73-77 did use butly tape...from what I have found in service manuals and the AIM.

DUB

 

Hi,
As dub describes a 'pumpable' material was used to set/seal the windshield. It was called thiokol.
It 'flowed' so readily that a 'damming' strip', (dense foam rubber with adhesive on one surface), was needed to prevent the material from oozing toward the interior side of the post where it could have been seen from the interior.
Interesting but probably more than you wanted/needed to know!
Regards,
Alan

 

If you have the upper dash out, I would install it before windshield.

 

Thanks....very good info. I agree on "built up" paint. I cleaned and wire brushed mine, put a thin layer of epoxy primer and a thin coat of epoxy paint. I feel pretty comfortable that I will get a good bond. I will probably Scotchbrite the epoxy paint slightly before installing the glass, the epoxy paint, when cured, can get slick.

My only question, with the modern sealants, will I need a damming strip? If not to stop the sealant, to trim out?

Kevin

 

With modern sealants you need to somehow make sure the windshield is spaced out (away from the pinch weld) enough. If it's too close the moldings wont fit. Small rubber spacers will probably be needed.

 

For what it is worth. When I have the windshields installed the guys cut small rubber blocks to set the height and then the moldings are temporary set up...even the one across the top so the windshield fits well with very little gap The gap being about 1/16th"

The urethane's of today are quite thick and have good body to them...they should not run away from you.

Make sure you contact the manufacturer of the urethane you plan on using because there are special cleaners and primers for the glass and the body. And you might also ask if their primer will adhere to you epoxy paint. Calling is worth the time...unless you feel that "possibly" doing it all over again is OK with you.

One tip: The guys who do it for me cut a "V" in the tip about 1+ inch...and when they apply the urethane to the windshield they apply it to the glass at the outer edge...using a finger to guide the tip on the tube of urethane...and when they are done. The urethane stands up to the fine point of urethane like they cut in the tube end....much like a pyramid. Then they use the suction cups and flip the glass and install it. I notice they test run the glass install DRY a few times so when they start to set the windshield...they know how to do it so they get the fine sharp end of the urethane to contact the pinch-weld and when they start to set the glass in place...it begins to build up on itself and creates a very good seal with good volume. Then they use the plastic "tongue depressors" and make sure the urethane is coming up on the side edge of the glass to make a good seal...but not so much that it effects the upper molding clips. Then it is immediately installing the upper molding...which I had already put tape on and also put a piece of tape on the t-top stainless trim so we know exactly where to position the upper molding. Then the side moldings go on.

Lastly...if needed...before the urethane sets-up...I make sure that the top outer corners are very tight with very little gap. If the glass is low...they slide in wedges made out of rubber to lift the windshield before it sets from the inside..

DUB

 

Keywords : trial fitting and letting the glue harden ( before putting the screen in) a little if you want to prevent it from running off.

 

DUB or Alan 71 do you have any pictures on what the corners and upper mouldings should look like sitting against the glass? I had Safelite Glass do mine and my moulding have not fit well since the glass install. This is not a hijack just thought other users could benefit from the pictures as well. Thanks

 

Hi ac,
It REALLY does take some pre-fitting, (which is a lot of extra work), to get the trim pieces to fit snuggly against the glass.
It has more to do with the a-pillar trim than the long thin piece of trim because that piece can be 'angled' a little to get it to fit tight. Having good, (not rusted or bent), trim clips in place is necessary too though. The lip on the long thin piece of trim must be able to slide completely into the clips, not just sit in front of them.
There's a little adjustment on the screws that mount the a-pillar trim but it's the distance the glass sits from the windshield frame that determines the gap.
In this picture there's no gap between the glass and the trim. Note the a-pillar trim holds the long thin piece of trim tight.
The nice thing about using a damming strip is it automatically holds the glass a set distance from the windshield frame. I didn't use any blocks or spacers.
It's do-able but takes time.
Regards,
Alan





I think you can see the fit of the trim to the glass in this picture.

 

Mann that is perfection, very nice. Might have to call the glass company back out to have them re-do it. Wonder if they could pull the glass back out without cracking it??