I bought this 81 model as a project. The PO took apart the doors etc and never put it back together so I have a box of parts. It was missing some window tracks etc so I decided to tear down the rest of the door and rebuild the windows. Putting it back together now and trying to figure out how and where the parts go. Yes, I have a AIM and a haynes but it doesnt directly show how the channel attaches to the window. Looking at pg 272 it shows the lower window track and how it bolts to the window but does the track not sit flush against the window? It looks like the bushings behind it would keep it from sitting flush, making it unstable. Also, there is a hole at the rear of the window with nothing thru it. Does it stay that way? It doesnt show anything thru it in the AIM. Would like to get it water tight this wknd. Tips, tricks and pics especially would be appreciated.

Thx

I FIGGERED IT OUT but now another issue
THX

 

I got that figured out but now another issue. The roller/guide on the rear of the window is larger than the track. It is the stock guide and roller so not sure whats going on with it.
I'm pretty sure that vertical track/guide and roller hook to the horizontal track on the bottom of the window but it doesnt fit...

 

Answered my own ? again. What a nimrod.

I had the roller / guide on the wrong track. Turned it around and boom.

what do ya know.

WIndow is still sluggish going up and down but am only using a battery charger to power the motor and probably not pushing enough to make it operate smoothly. I removed all of the track and cleaned and lubed all of the parts but still sluggish. Hope using the charger is the culprit. Will probably check to see if it's pushing 12v and if it is, then its the motor , right? That would suck, not as bad as trying to realign the window to where it meets the weather stripping smoothly but still sux the same.
I think there is supposed to be a stop on the top of the forward window guide to keep the window from going too high. Is that so? If it is, then I'm missing the stop and have to install one.

Thx

 

It isn't the voltage, it is the amps.

a charger probably doesn't put out enough amps to power the window fast enough.

Hook it up to a battery and see what happens.

Doug

 

will try it tomorrow. I hate this time change. Gotta do the PS too. Will probably tackle it tomorrow.

 

When replacing the window hardware back in the doors, is there a left and right short guide or does it matter which door they are placed in? If they are different, how do you tell which one is which?

 

You are using terms that do not make sense. What "short guide" are you asking about. There is NO GUIDE. If you are asking about the "FELT ADJUSTERS"...they are the same.

Also always use your windows when the engine is running. They will work with just the key on...but the alternator will give it more "umph" and they will actually work faster. I always tell my customers his. I have adjusted more doors and windows than I can recall...and I always have the engine running on final testing.

DUB

 

http://www.performancechoice.com/pc.html?frame=5.9492

http://www.corvettemagazine.com/tech...power-rebuild/

 

Pete,
Thx for the links. I've been using the corvette magazine article and its helped.

DUB
Sry for the confusion, I'm new to vettes and attempting to complete this 81 project. It currently doesnt run so I've been using the charger to operate the motor so I can get windows in and adjusted. The short guide I am speaking of is not the "felts" but its the 8" long piece of track that bolts horizontally to the inside of the door about midway down. The roller guide from the regulator goes inside its track.

Thx

 

The AIM is great to have, but it doesn't show details of assembly processes that were not done at the final assembly factory (ie, doors, engine, etc.). The AIM shows just those things that are put together when the car is assembled...not things pre-assembled at other GM factories.

You really need a copy of the Chevrolet Chassis Service Manual. It has the detail you need on the "other" stuff. Also, if you intend to rebuild any of the major sub-assemblies (engine, trans, diffy, starter, alternator, P/S components, steering box, etc.), you also need a copy of the Chevrolet Chassis Overhaul Manual. Those two documents, along with the AIM, are the prerequisite references for C3 DIY folks. Without any of them, you are left guessing.

Haynes, Chilton???? Very meager info, at best.

 

The major work has been done such as motor, tranny etc. it just needs reassembly. My first task is to get it as weather proof as possible then complete reassembly of motor etc

 

I replaced the regulators and rollers a few weeks ago and could not get the windows to go up without binding. Took the car to Dub and he said the outer weatherstrip was not correct. He ordered the correct "fuzzy" strip and fixed my problem. Follow his instructions and you'll be OK.

Here's some more drawings from the AIM.

 

The AIM has those drawings; the CCSM has detailed procedures for removal, reassembly, installation and adjustment (if required). Both good references...totally different in 'context'.

 

Cool, So I guess that should be my next purchase. On a side note, I havent installed the weather strip or the fuzzy strips yet, just wanted to make sure everything was operational before putting it all back together. I'm going to hook the car up to the battery in my truck and see what blows up?. Just kidding. I hope.
I'll let ya know what happens.
BTW, is there a How To: section here that gives step by step instructions etc? I've seen the ones posted via corvette magazine etc just wondering if there was something attached to this site? If not, would it be a good idea to start one?

 

It would appear I am doing this all backwards. I also have new window seals/felts to install. Most suggest installing them prior to installing the window. Sux as I just got the damned thing in and aligned. Anyway, Seeing as I have a box of parts with no directions or what goes where,


UPDATE.

Holes do not match plugs on stripping. I read that some of the cheaper vendors have this issue. I do not know where these came from but I guess I'm going to have to buy another set.... OR if someone has any ideas short of wollering out the holes in the doors.

 

While trying to figure out what to do to the window seals I took the Lt Rear tire off to finish installing the E brake system. The engineer who designed that setup should be shot...
One thing tho that works well. I read it in a article somewhere, cut a notch in the screw driver to attach the upper spring. It will make the install go so much easier.

 

nspctr01,

I can fill you in on so many issues due to incorrect reproduced parts that it would make you head spin.

I have worked on so many doors that I can literally do them in my sleep...NO JOKE.

Just be aware that the TYPE of weatherstrip you use...at the doors and also on the windshield pillar and "B" pillar ( at the back of the door glass)...and ALSO not to mention the T-Tops.

Outer window seals (the fuzzy type) is what I HIGHLY recommend. You can run into binding on the rubber strip style.

Many parts are SUPER CRITICAL in the doors when it comes to window operation. TWO of these are the rollers at the front of the door glass ( where it actually attaches to the door glass) and the rear roller ( the one that is square on one side and round on the other where it slide in the rear vertical track and also the horizontal track that is secured to your door glass). I hope that you checked these "rollers" for free-play. IF these roller have free-play in them ( in and out play)...they are JUNK!!!! BECAUSE...IF these rollers have free-play in them...when you roll your window all the way to the top...you will be able to take the door glass and move it in and out and see the area that is causing it ...IS the free-play in these rollers. IT does NOT matter how much you push out on the felt adjusters...it WILL NOT change this problem...so when the door is closed...and you go to roll the window UP...the window will "kinda" do what it wants BECAUSE it is NOT tight at these rollers. The very smallest amount of in and out play in these rollers translates to quite a bit at the top edge of your door glass due to the angles.

Those horizontal tracks that are mid-way down are the same...and do not matter which door they go in. They are use to tilt the door glass so when you go and get it level with the T-top weatherstrip...you can do so...and NOT rely totally on teh upper stops in the front and rear vertical tracks. Also check teh rear vertical line at teh back of teh foor glass wher eit meetys up with teh "B" pillar weatherstrip and make sure that the door glass edge is parallel with teh body and NOT angled. THIS AREA is a GIVEN...an dis what I adjust to. "WHY???do you ask"

Because so many Corvettes have been damaged...and when they have been repaired...the "BOZO" who worked on it does not KNOW Corvettes...and I have seen NUMEROUS times that the windshield post is off...thus causing the angles to be so "out-of whack" that the door glass CAN NOT be adjusted....because any movement causes the door glass to hit the windshield post trim badly or begin to possibly chip paint at the "B" pillar. UNLESS the frame and or hinge post area is repaired....which in turn will cause for a new windshield to be installed...because when it was put in when things were off. A small amount DOES make a BIG difference.

NOW...onto weatherstrips.

Due to the density of many aftermarket weatherstrips...this increase in density puts added strain on the glass because it is actually pressing harder against the door glass than what was originally used by GM. This increase in tension will begin to wear out the ROLLERS. And in many cases...when the door is shut...you will not be able to roll the window up all the way..stop about 1 inch from the top...unless you crack open the door. You can adjust to your hearts content...modify this and that and you will still have the same problem. SO...obtaining LATEX weatherstrips is what I will ONLY install on those areas that used latex. I have wasted so many hours trying to get the "other" stuff to work it just makes me sick to my stomach. There are still "tricks" to when you go and install door main weatherstrips so you do not run into a "hard close" issue when you try to close the door....but it still is much better than the other stuff....which will work...but it will take some time to get it to finally take seat....but it still is an issue at the window sealing areas. The latex style weather strip is soft as a marshmallow...and the other stuff is NOT.

I hope your door hinge bushing and striker bolts is in good condition and have no free-play in them.

DUB

 

Dub,

Thx for the info. You should do a tech article on window installation and adjustment and post it here as a sticky in tech so we can learn from your expertise. The rollers were good so I just removed/cleaned/lubed and reinstalled. As mentioned earlier, I think I have the glass aligned pretty well and putting in the fuzzy guides took alot of the wobble out of the glass. Since the window seals I have do not fit my car, what vendor/make do you suggest? Not sure where these came from as they were in a pile of parts in a box that came with the car. I've got bags of bolts,bushings,cables etc and no idea where they go. This is my first vette and would like to get it running by new years if possible. It needs a few things installed/all parts are there/ such as shift cable, detent cable, tranny cooler lines, modulator valve line and the pulleys, belts,exhaust and probably some other minor things I'm forgetting about. I'll have to trailer the car to the exhaust shop and have the system mounted. Luckily the shop is about 2 miles from the house.

 

When it comes to the outer window "fuzzy" seals. As long as they are the fuzzy style...get them from who-ever you want. The reason is...no matter who you get them from...the chance that all of the "push-in" clips are perfectly positioned to fit int the oval holes in your door...is a hit-or-miss situation. Sometimes they fit perfect...sometimes they are off just a hair...but trust me...that 'hair" makes them not fit correctly. Sometimes the holes fro the screws are fine...sometimes not. And oh yeah...there can be a length issue also....where it may need to be trimmed slightly. Welcome to over-seas CRAP....or USA made parts that are not quite perfect. It always goes back to what I have said to customer numerous times. The 95% rule: "95% of the time...95% of the companies that make reproduction parts, reproduce them to 95% of perfect...and it takes 95% of my time to finish out that LAST 5% and get it 100% right".

DUB

 

What vendor sells the latex strips? I didn't see any mention of the materials in a few of the catalogs I looked at?