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I ran into a roadblock removing tach/ speedo dash panel.i removed all screws on face and under steering column cover ,panel will not move.i just want to slide back to remove speaker from under dash pad passenger side not to hard even with A/C duct.what am i missing?
I just did this. All three sections hook to each other, as well as the front door jambs on the outside and the bottom of the dash to make up a solid assembly. There are screws on the outside of the panels on both sides, that you access with the car doors open (door jambs). You'll need a shorty phillips to get to these.
There's also screws on the sides of the center section of the dash, that hold the inside edges of the left and right dash panels into the center section, makes sure these come out. And there is a screw or two, under the top edge of that same center dash section, that hold the dash down in the center. The dash won't budge, unless you remove those screws (and the three screws in the top edge of the right dash panel as well, take a close look with a flashlight in the holes too, because these screws will sometimes embed themselves down into the holes and be invisible, but still solidly holding the dash panel in).
I found it made it easier to remove the map panels on either side of the transmission, because part of the problem, of even removing the right side panel, was that the bottom edge on the inside was solidly butted up against the center console and I had to gently bend it to even get it to come out. Also, the vent tube on the right dash is a friction fit to the vent system and you might have to tug it gently, to remove it.
And if all of this doesn't make sense, your solid best bet is to gently tug at each of the panels and see what's holding it up, from coming out. Hope this helps!
Remove/loosen the upper windshield interior panel so that you can remove the A-pillar panels. Then the upper dash panel can be lifted a bit. You may need to pull out the upper dash panel.
Hi,
I don't think you can slide the driver's side pad straight back without dropping the steering column a few inches.
I wouldn't pull up on the upper dash pad until the brace that screws to it and the cowl is removed. You might just split the pad in the middle.
If you drop the column and pull the pad down and back about 3 inches you have access to the speaker.
Regards,
Alan
Hi,
I don't think you can slide the driver's side pad straight back without dropping the steering column a few inches.
I wouldn't pull up on the upper dash pad until the brace that screws to it and the cowl is removed. You might just split the pad in the middle.
If you drop the column and pull the pad down and back about 3 inches you have access to the speaker.
Regards,
Alan
I just did one and you have to drop the steering column to allow the speedo/tach panel to drop a little bit so you can get the dash pad back and out.
Unless you want to tear something up. I would also heat the top surface of the dash pad to soften the vinyl...and less prone to cracking..because the dash pad does have to be lifted in the middle a little bit to get it to come past the lower pillar post areas.
You only have to remove the top pad mounting screw from the bracket (behind the right-side dash pad) and drop the steering column (leave firewall end as-is). Then, you can pull and drop the driver's dash pad a bit and grab the top pad and pull it towards you about an inch or so. That will allow you to tip it up in front and get just enough clearance to get your hand and a tool in there for the speaker change.
I strongly advise that you not try to 'bend' the top dash pad at all. They are very brittle and tend to crack/snap BEFORE you have any clue that it is in trouble.
You guys are terrific like a band of brothers.alan love the photo really help to familiarize me with the dash pad placement.my ride has a real nice dash pad probably replaced before i purchase?i will attack tomorrow now that i have plan. Thank again!
It may be overkill but if your pads are really nice, I would bring the interior of your Vette up to temperature. This will give you a little safety margin from the horrid "crack".
For what its worth you see that arched strip of metal that connects the tach and speedometer. That is a ground, that ground was hitting my aftermarket speakers positive terminal (the magnet was larger than the originals) and grounding it out. You may want to take that into consideration if you are replacing the speakers so the terminals are on the other side.