Ibanez540r

Hobart Handler 140 is an awesome 110v mig welder. The largest 110v prior to going 220. Hobart is also made by the same parent company as Miller (the best) without the extra cost.

DUB

teamo,

You are aware that I repair issues like this from time to time...don't you???

If you do..was it that do did not have a cut-off wheel and use it???

How are you planning on getting the new nut in the cage???? Cutting holes in your frame to get it in from the bottom??? Or is the top section of the cage ruined now....which could have been avoided if it is.

I know there is more than one way to do something. BUT in post #30...third paragraph....I wrote how I would do it...and if you did it would have made your job easier. Cutting out the nut...10-15 minutes...if that.

And not that it matters....if the inside of the cage is slightly damaged...and you have the new square nut. I would weld onto the nut on 2 sides....opposite of each other. I would weld on some more steel and make the nut wider so it can not turn and re-install it.

UNLESS you are trying to do all of this WITHOUT the use of a welder. And if you are...I wish you the best.

DUB

teamo

Hi Dub,
I don't have a welder as of yet so I was unable to use your method of welding a nut onto the bolt. The cage itself is in good shape and I only had to open up one side (back side) with the cut off wheel. So as of right now the cage is still welded to the frame on three sides. I have to get a new replacement nut (going to order several in case I need any for the other side). When I get the welder I will weld some steel onto it as you suggested so that it doesn't spin in the cage. I will then have to slide the new nut into the cage and weld a small piece of steel onto the back of the cage to close it up and give it a little more strength.

teamo

Not much progress to report lately. I bought a welder at Harbor Freight. It wasn't very expensive and I am sure that there are much better quality machines out there (Miller, Hobart, etc.)but it is all that I could afford. I bought a 170 amp mig welder. It uses flux core wire or it can be used with the shielding gas. I ran a new circuit from my sub panel and I also had to make up an extension cord so that I could get it outside and use it in the driveway. I haven't welded in a long time and I only learned some of the basics back then in high school. Had a friend of mine who is a certified welder come over and show me a few things. Now I am really bitten by the weld bug. Can't wait to build my own welding table and welder cart soon. Work will resume on the body mounts/cage nuts when the kids are back in school and I have some time.

chevygod

Go, go, go!

teamo

I got a little work done this past week. Still cleaning up and removing rust from parts in the electrolysis tank. I am going to paint some of the frame with por 15. Not going to be able to get the entire frame done but at least the frame rails that go under the rocker channels as well as the channels themselves. I had some wooden blocking under the rockers as a safety measure in case the jack let go of the body but it was very hard to get at the top of the frame rails and wire brush everything. I just bought some 1/2 inch threaded rod (see pictures) which brings me to the question. Is this rod strong enough to safely support the body without risking it breaking? I couldn't find any plain steel rod so I ended up getting zinc plated rod. The specs online lists zinc plated threaded rod at around 66,000 psi compressive strength. I have the body supported on one side in four places.

Frank_Nesta

1/2 inch thread rod will more than support the body. It looks like you are raising the car to clean the frame. Is that correct? If the answer is yes. You are in compression, not tensile strength and you are fine.

teamo

Yes that is correct. I am raising it one side at a time to clean and paint the frame rails, rocker channels, and replace all of the body mounts. After that I am going to install new brake and fuel lines. Wish I had the room to do a full body off. Maybe someday.

swensonm

Well now I scared to death to tackle this job.......I have printed Dubs write up and will keep it handy. Darn shame DUB does not live in San Antonio!

teamo

Continuing on with the frame clean up and painting I found a tar like product on the inside of the rear frame rail where the gas tank rests on. I used degreaser to soften it up and most of it scraped off pretty easily. Did the factory use anything like that? It is kind of strange because it is only on this one frame rail. It did it's job because the metal is pretty clean underneath. I am going to continue on with the POR 15 painting. The POR is a really good product. The stuff is deadly though and they weren't kidding when they said to use breathing protection. The pictures are of the frame rails before and after and one of the rocker channels with the completed POR application.

DUB

Well on your way. Looks good. You are following proper procedures BEFORE you apply the POR-15.....meaning....IF you are not sandblasting the steel clean and fresh...you MUST ( or REALLY SHOULD BE) using the 'Marine Clean'...and then the 'Acid Etch'as the directions indicate.

I really hate to see work being invested an a few steps left out ( if they were) and thus causes a product NOT to adhere as designed. With many products..changing prep procedure GREATLY effects the overall performance if the product.

If any doubt(s)...call their Tech Dept.

DUB

teamo

Got some work done this past weekend. I cleaned and painted the rear cross member and the trans cross member with por 15. The front side of the trans cross member had what looked like the same tar like product on it as the gas tank cross member. I scraped it and used the marine clean on it but it still feels too greasy for my liking. I painted the back side which came out clean. I am going to mix up some of the marine clean in a stronger ratio and go at it again. I used a grinder with a flap disc to clean up and paint the gas tank protector. Came out very nice. Next step is new fuel lines and body mounts on the right side then it is on to the left side for more cleaning and painting of the frame on that side.

DUB

Looking good.....keep up the good work.

DUB

Brian79

As a first time owner, I've already learned much from your posts
Thank You
Brian

teamo

I got some work done today. Put all of the new mounts in place on the side that I am working on. The body has shifted a little since it has been jacked up. Occasionally I have had to move it back down so that I could reposition the supports so I must have shifted when I was doing that. Not sure if it was on this forum or another one but I bought a Harbor Freight centering pry bar at another posters suggestion. It isn't perfect but I was able to move the body mostly into position. It isn't the final assembly anyway so when I am all done with all of the frame clean up and painting I will get it centered right over the locating holes. The number 2 and 3 bolts caught the cage nuts and threaded in so it is pretty close. I was unable to open the doors to get into the interior because the front gaps on the doors were really close with the car jacked up and I didn't want to damage the front edge. When I lowered the body back down the door gaps went back to where they were. I was able to go into the back and reach into the pocket where the number 4 cage nut was supposed to be. I previously cut the bolt heads off on both of the number 4 mounts because the bolt was just spinning. I assumed it was because the cage nuts had broken free from their rivets. Well it appears that this thing has been apart at some point prior to my Brother owning it because there were no cage nuts in there. Bubba just threaded on a nut and didn't even bother to use any washers. I am going to use a large neoprene washer and a large fender washer with a lock washer and grade 8 nut when I put them back. I would replace the cages but it is very hard to get back there into the pocket to rivet the new ones on and the outer reinforcements are in very good shape so I don't want to disturb them. Well it's on to the other side maybe tomorrow. I have all of the mount bolts out on that side already except for the #1 so that should only take a few minutes and I can start the jacking process. Here is a picture of the pry bar, the bar inserted into the alignment hole on the sill, and the number 4 bolts. Attachment 47881386

Attachment 47881387

Attachment 47881388

teamo

Continuing on with the frame clean up I found that the left #4 body mount reinforcement is rusted through. I hadn't noticed it before but I was under the rear of the body where the gas tank has been removed and I noticed the metal was all disintegrated. Just ordered a new #4 reinforcement, a new nut cage, and the factory rivets. My question is how do I install these rivets? I know they are supposed to be hammered/peened to fasten them. I would guess that I just have someone hold a piece of flat steel over the head from the inside and hammer the rivet shaft that protrudes through the reinforcement until it is flat?

P3x

Hi Jim,

A light hitting rivet gun with a flush set and a bucking bar (chunk of steel) would be the best method and give you the best control. I think the rivets are fairly soft aluminum and a muffler tool will most likely drive them as well - if you can control the speed of the hits. Don't want to bounce off the head and start hitting all over...

I have these tools from my earlier days working on aircraft. Let me know if you like some assistance.


Tim

gcusmano74

If you have a convertible there will be a matching bracket on top, inside the luggage compartment, that holds the deck lid hinge and spring assembly.
I used 5 or 6 small bolts w/nuts to hold the reinforcement in place, and then just removed them one by one and pop riveted the bracket to the fiberglass.

Don't tell the NCRS.

teamo

Got the left side #4 reinforcement riveted on today. Used the correct aluminum rivets, a cheap air chisel from Harbor Freight, and a riveting bit from an aircraft tool supply company. The bit was only $12.00 including shipping. I riveted a new cage nut in and then I had a family member operate the gun while I crawled inside and held a small steel maul against the heads. It was a little tough to get the rivets through and lined up so I used a punch in one of the adjacent holes to pull the reinforcement into alignment. The other reinforcement on the right side is in pretty good shape so I am not going to remove it. If I was doing that side then I would also put in a new cage nut. The cage on that side is missing so I will use a large neoprene washer and a steel washer inside to spread the load of the nut out. If anyone is contemplating doing this job I would say don't be afraid of it. I was worried that it wouldn't come out right but other than a little pain crawling around in the tight space in the cargo area it was worth doing right. Here is the reinforcement before and after.

DUB

YEP...riveting in this #4 reinforcement gusset is NO FUN. I have been there....many times.

DUB