Thanks for showing the proper tools to use.

 

 

CA I am almost there. wiring the dash in the middle of restoring a 71. Both keep me pretty busy, Thanks for asking.

RVZIO

 

 

Cage for the cage nut. Some after removing them use the many different fasteners available, or you can rivet them.

 

 

Don't know why there would be, it's not going anywhere. But that's just my opinion. I actually will have to repair both my #4's in the near future.

 

No issues using the aluminum rivets by the vendors. Large flat head 5/16. You may have to snip them shorter if needed.

RVZIO

 

Pop rivets can be used to hold the retainer for the large square nut. Becasue the p[op rivets is not holding a part of the cars structure.

BUT..I would use the solid aluminum rivets for the other areas that hold the gusset plates on due to they are considered a part of structure.

Granted there are people out there that will use machine screws and nuts...and they can do as they wish....and some use nothing but pop rivets.

DUB

 

Dissimilar metals (I.e. aluminum and steel) will eventually blend together in a melded ball of corroded metal stuff after several years due to normal electrolysis.

 

And the galvanic action that occurs is usually due to salt being introduced to the area where the two dissimilar metals touch.

To STOP this. It is simple. All you need to do is apply a barrier between the two dissimilar metals and that will not occur.

I use a layer of thick clear packaging tape and that does it. How do I KNOW this works.

When I worked at Fruehauf Trailers years ago I worked on the main assembly line in the department that riveted on the side walls and front and rear wall. When the guy would rivet the walls in place so I could install the front and rear wall. he placed and thick piece of wide cellophane tape at the end of the PAINTED floor rails that would be able to be riveted to the ALUMINUM lower side rail of the wall. And I can tell you that I have never seen a trailer have issues in this area and knowing that trailers are used all across the globe in areas where slat is used during winter. Not only that...this method was confirmed by one of my customers who career was in dealing with galvanic action and what to do to stop it.

Take any of this for what it may be worth. Because I have worked on Corvettes with the aluminum body mounts a that were strictly southern cars not subjected to salt and when I pull the body...the aluminum spacers are still perfect...and when I get some Corvettes that lived up north and driven when salt was able to get in that area. The aluminum spacers almost fall apart and powder away.

DUB

 

Thanks for sharing your experience with that, Dub!

 

Related - I suppose? Sorry if I'm hijacking. In need to remove the #4 cage nut - just drill out the rivets?

FWIW, I'm just about done the passenger side structural on my body-off, I just need to figure out what to do with that #4 and the seat belt support. The #4 reinforcement is completely missing (like, not anywhere, not even remnants)- and the seatbelt support is shot totally- so thats my "august" project. I'm expecting the same crap on the driver's side too.

 

 

Drilled from the bottom up, right?

And yeah- I'm gonna have to either fabricate or buy reinforcements. At 35 bucks, that's a steal.

 

If the outer mount plate is needing to be replaced due to bad rust.. Buy new ones.

AS for needing to use the cage and square nut...that is up to you.

I will make my own square washer that fits down in the pocket out if 1/8" thick steel and then either weld a nut to it or not weld it on. The thick steel washer will transfer out more of the pressure evenly when the bolt is tightened that the large square nut GM used. The only reason the cage is used was for fast assembly on the assembly line. And I can install the bolt and then the nut on the inside even if the nut is not caged all by myself with no issues.

DUB