L46 and running 91 octane
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 897
Likes: 246
From: Green Valley Ca
A lot of guys with L46 want to maintain originality. If your willing to make the jump to aluminum I would go AFR 180 65CC chamber, .015 Felpro 1094 head gasket. The combination of the aluminum head, fast burn chamber and .040 quench will run on premium, get full power @ 32 degrees initial timing instead of 36 and allow a much more aggressive advance curve. Likely give you 75 HP on top of the other benefits.
Cruising
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
From: Conway Arkansas
91 Octane
Alrighty, so out here in AZ 91 octane is the highest available at the pump and have noticed that my car detonates quite a bit at WOT, wasn't so much an issue when I lived in TX where 93 is everywhere. Aside from backing off on the timing, any other tips you suggest I try in order to maintain as much performance and avoid detonation? 11.0:1 CR apparently doesn't like 91 octane 
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
From: Okatie South Carolina
This sounds like a good option. I have been considering an MSD ignition system for my 70 L46. MSD recommends the 8572 distributor, 6426-6AL control box, 8202 Blaster 2 Coil and the 31599 plug wire set. I'm interested to know which distributor you used and if you were able to return the correct distributor and wiring enclosures? The 8572 distributor has an umbrella type wire retainer on top so I'm not sure about head room also the 8mm wires seem like they would be a tight fit. Would appreciate your comments and experience.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
Unless you have modified the cooling system with a larger capacity radiator, etc., sticking a lower temp thermostat in the engine won't help. The thermostat ONLY establishes the temperature at which the coolant begins to freely flow through the system (to warm the engine up more quickly); it does NOT set the stabilized operating temperature of the warmed-up engine. Most stock Chevy engines (with 180 degree stats) operated about 10-15 degrees warmer than the stat temp. You could actually remove the thermostat and the engine would [eventually] stabilize at the same operating temperature.
When GM changed over to 195*F stats (for emissions reduction purposes), the stabilized operating temps were very close to the stat temps. In some instances, removing the stat or changing to a lower temp stat MIGHT lower the stabilized temp a few degrees...but not down to the stat temperature.
When GM changed over to 195*F stats (for emissions reduction purposes), the stabilized operating temps were very close to the stat temps. In some instances, removing the stat or changing to a lower temp stat MIGHT lower the stabilized temp a few degrees...but not down to the stat temperature.
