Not wanting to break the ears off the diff cover, does anyone have the correct removal procedure for the steel leaf spring mounting bolts? Weight on or off the spring?....and impact gun better than breaker bar?

Understand the weight on the spring before tightening, but not sure about the removal.

I really don't want to crack those outer ears. 1973 original spring.

 

Get the wheels in the air, (you will need a jack to raise the outer ends of the spring where it attaches to the trailing arm), remove the nut/washer/bushing that attaches the spring to the trailing arm, slowly release the jack. Once both sides are done, remove the four bolts that hold the spring to the differential. I used a box end wrench, they're not that tight.

 

About 55 ft/lbs if I recall correctly. And an impact wrench will make the bolt removal a lot easier.

 

I do it this way...and NEVER had a problem. USE CAUTION. This is a spring under pressure.

KNOWING that a person needs to tighten the four bolts for the rear spring when the weight of the car is allowing the spring to flatten out.

I REVERSE the procedure...and loosen the FOUR bolts with the car on the ground. I have wood block I drive the car up on that allows me to slide under the car and loosen these four bolts....then I jack up the rear end. Then I lower it onto the jack stand I set up at one end of one side to the rear spring...making sure I have my open ended wrench in and ready to hold the head of the spring bolt at the trailing arm. I then lower the car onto the jack stand and when it allows me to move the rubber cushion...I remove the nut off the bolt. The I raise the car and when the spring is uncompressed on that side...then I do the other side.

When both are released...I set up jack stand top hold the frame and lower my floor jack and remove the four bolts under the spring at the differential.

JUST BE AWARE...when you are lowering the car onto eh jack stand to compress the spring so you can get the spring bolt off....when you go and raise it....the chance that the jack stand will wan to slide out shoot to the other side of the car is possible due to the arch in the spring will push it that way. I only do one side at a time so I can use the cars weight to compress the spring.

DUB

 

That all makes sense...thanks. Amazing what I found under there in my "completely original" car ....10 leaf factory replacement spring and a 7/16 sway bar that's not supposed to be there in a '73. Going with a new spring, shocks and heim joint struts..

 

If you haven't bought a new spring yet, you might want to consider going with one of the composite springs from VB&P. They provide a LOT better ride quality.

 

Hi J,
I believe the AIM indicates 60-80 lbs/ft for the 4 bolts, but not torqued until spring is compressed to design height.
Regards,
Alan

 

Sorry for the hijack
Any ideas for rear spring bolt removal on a 72 that is only the frame...meaning only the frame and rear suspension remain (doing a frame off). I cannot jack up the spring without the entire frame being lifted
Hijack over
Thanks
Nathan

 

BE CAREFUL!!!! many of the new steel springs use steel leafs that are THICKER.....thus.....your four bolts need to be changed so you still have enough thread grip going into the rear end cover...and this also means that you can not get the bolts TOO LONG...because the two bolts closer to the front of the car have to be carefully checked. BECAUSE IF you get bolts too long and tighten them...these bolts ( if too long) CAN crack the housing and allow gear oil to leak out. DO NOT ASK ME how I KNOW THIS! SO measure your old spring to the new one and see what you have.

Nathan,

I have done this a really crude way...don't wan to type it out....quick but dangerous if you are not REALLY,REALLY, REALLY careful.

And I have also bent a thick (1/4") steel plate that would cup the spring....Drill holes in each side. Bolt one of my pulling chains to it....set a floor jack on the differential crossmember above the spring. Put the chain on the saddle of the floor jack and pump the jack and it will raise the spring. Then you can CAREFULLY loosen (BUT DO NOT REMOVE) the 2 spring mounting bolts on the side you are raising..and then remove the outer bolt. Repeat on the other side.

KEEP IN MIND that the steel saddle I bent is being positioned towards the end of the spring..and I have clamps that I can clamp onto the spring so the saddle does not slide towards the differential when I am raising the floor jack.

MAKE SURE that you are using your BRAIN and always remember that this compressed spring has an AWFUL LOT of stored ENERGY....and it can REALLY HURT YOU. SO...YOU assume ALL liability in doing this. I am NOT there to over see this operation....so....once again...use your brain and BE SAFE!!!!!!

DUB