I can 'dig it'and I kinda am careful when I want to tell someone something that sees to be dangerous due to fuel and a possible fire. Many people do not possess common sense..( NOT writing that you are one of those) ...but some people who may read what is written may NOT have common sense and follow directions incorrectly.

DUB

 

With gasket atch. Removed the IACs, cleaned, and appear in good shape to my rookie eye. Can I pressurize fuel lines without harness connected to check for leaks? And your comment ref safety is spot on; my bad!

 

Thinking about connecting 12 VDC to fuel pump & checking for leaks before I finish putting it all back together!

Any other recommended upgrades since I'm this far into it?

 

I would have worked on that intake.http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=...take&FORM=IGRE

 

I thought about it but happy with the stock performance and didn't want the hassle!

 

I can not think of anything else for you to do at this time. YES...if you want to power up the fuel pump and check for leaks...that is up to you....or just turn the key on and look.

DUB

 

Got it all back together and she started right up; can't remember ever running this strong. However, new fuel line between TBs interfered with the air cleaning housing so I got a rubber mallet and beat it down so housing would fit; probably not the smartest idea right? Now, the fuel line interferes with the smog pump; what is the correct way to deal with this?

 

Honestly..I have tubing benders so even if I had to take this line back off...I would increase some of bends so I can get the fuel line to clear things. AND YES....you kinda want to refrain from beating on your fuel lines unless you want to crack a housing where the fitting goes into the the throttle bodies. Obviously it is your car and you can do as you wish.

DUB

 

Opening up the discharge end of the runners accomplishes nothing other than adding a teensy tiny bit to the runner's volume. It may look cool but that's all it does. At the very best you can only achieve about a 10% flow rate increase which is still way short of what is needed.

 

Yeah, the cracked housing idea didn't occur to me until after I "fixed" it LOL; I won't make the same mistake twice!

Is there a new improved coolant temp sensor I should install? Seems I recall reading a post here about it but can't find it!

And I really appreciate you and everyone else helping me work through this!

 

Can you take a photo of your and the connector???

You can get one for a 1985 Corvette and wire it in with a NEW electrical connector. BUT...it is IMPERATIVE that you get the WIRES CORRECT and not switched.

DUB

 

Yes, the OEM had a round end and single wire whereas the replacement has an oval end and two wires. Standard Motor Products sells them and they complete with the necessary butt connectors and instructions. I changed mine over about 25 years ago and it only took about 30 minutes.

 

What does the 85 sensor gain me?

 

My intake has been ported .the huge egr arm removed.the performance gain was very noticeable well worth the work .Before you could buy the renegade intake,this was the best you could get.

 

That hurts my heart seeing a 350 suffocating under those 2 tiny cavalier throttle bodies.

 

The design of the coolant temp sensor is better. The design of electrical connector of the design you have CAN have problems. NOT 'saying' that it will...but it can. You can leave what you have...because I have changed them out when everything is back on and assembled. It is a bit more FUN...but can be done without taking everything back off....So the choice is yours.

Due to using a scanner when tuning engines like this...if the coolant temp sensor flag on my scanner shows that it is fine...I leave well enough alone. IF it becomes 'touchy'...I replace it with the new design and new electrical connector. If it were MY car and I was at this point....I would replace it. Because...with my luck...in a few weeks the coolant temp sensor would act up and I would be having to replace it....but that is my luck.

DUB

 

I want to drive it while searching for a place to properly bend the fuel line; just plugging the single vac line to the smog pump okay?

 

Did you ever resolve the issue of only having 8V at the fuel pump? That could easily be caused by the fuel pump relay. My suggestion is to replace it as a matter of routine maintenance, rather than wasting time trying to trace wiring. I had to do that on the '82 I bought a couple months ago, and I learned a few things...

1. The relay is located in the battery compartment on the forward wall, next to the ECM.

2. The relay is screwed to the wall from the other side (behind the driver's seat), and the screw heads are under the carpet. I elected to unplug mine and leave it in place, rather than tearing out the carpet. The plug wiring is long enough so it can be pulled back closer to the battery, where it's more accessible. I plugged in a new relay and left it in that position. The relay is all plastic and very light, and I don't see any potential issues with it hanging free in the battery compartment.

3. The original style relay is only available at a few select vendors, and it's expensive. Stocks seem to be running out. The later relay ('84-'87) has different mounting ears than the original, but it's electrically identical and fits the plug exactly. Also, it's available from many sources, including run-of-the-mill auto parts houses.

Good luck with everything!

 

Car runs great, better than I can ever recall but then that may be early onset Alzheimer's LOL! I'm going to replace the relay per your suggestion but haven't followed up on the 8 VDC; more than likely my poor electrical skills than the car!

Any idea what this gasket is for? It was in the TBI rebuild kit.

 

The gasket is the base plate gasket for your throttle body where it contacts the top plate of your intake.

Spend your money how you like...BUT I would NOT buy a relay and replace it UNLESS I have check to see that the voltage drop is due to it. Simple to check with a volt meter.

YES...you can plug off the vacuum line for your smog system for the time being.

DUB