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Old Feb 2, 2016 | 06:30 PM
  #101  
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Originally Posted by DUB
The gasket is the base plate gasket for your throttle body where it contacts the top plate of your intake.

Spend your money how you like...BUT I would NOT buy a relay and replace it UNLESS I have check to see that the voltage drop is due to it. Simple to check with a volt meter.

YES...you can plug off the vacuum line for your smog system for the time being.

DUB
Dub, there are two reasons I suggested replacing the relay. First, it's a lot easier than chasing the wires with a meter. I'm pretty sure the measurements would need to made at the relay plug harness itself to eliminate the relay as the culprit. That would probably mean piercing the wires. Second, pitted relay contacts are often intermittant. It might measure OK one minute, and bad the next. The 1985 relay is only $17 from O'Reilly. Even my time is worth more than that.
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Old Feb 2, 2016 | 06:32 PM
  #102  
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Originally Posted by DUB
The gasket is the base plate gasket for your throttle body where it contacts the top plate of your intake.

Spend your money how you like...BUT I would NOT buy a relay and replace it UNLESS I have check to see that the voltage drop is due to it. Simple to check with a volt meter.

YES...you can plug off the vacuum line for your smog system for the time being.

DUB
Can't be the base plate gasket; there was only one in the kit and this one is nearly 1/4" thick. Kit had two matching (thin) gaskets that matched the original gaskets and I installed them beneath each TB.
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Old Feb 2, 2016 | 08:49 PM
  #103  
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Originally Posted by Luce
That hurts my heart seeing a 350 suffocating under those 2 tiny cavalier throttle bodies.
It would be a boring world if we all liked the same things; to each his own!
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Old Feb 2, 2016 | 09:59 PM
  #104  
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Originally Posted by toobroketoretire

Yes, the OEM had a round end and single wire whereas the replacement has an oval end and two wires. Standard Motor Products sells them and they complete with the necessary butt connectors and instructions. I changed mine over about 25 years ago and it only took about 30 minutes.
I just replaced mine with a BWD brand sensor a couple days ago. The new sensor came with a new plug with pigtails. The instructions said the new plug might be necessary because an earlier sensor had round pins, whereas the pins on the current version are flat. I take this to mean that there have been three styles - a single round pin, two round pins, and two flat pins. This might be important to know so someone doesn't try to force the earlier plug made for round pins onto the newer sensor.
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Old Feb 3, 2016 | 06:52 PM
  #105  
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Originally Posted by 454Luvr
Dub, there are two reasons I suggested replacing the relay. First, it's a lot easier than chasing the wires with a meter. I'm pretty sure the measurements would need to made at the relay plug harness itself to eliminate the relay as the culprit. That would probably mean piercing the wires. Second, pitted relay contacts are often intermittant. It might measure OK one minute, and bad the next. The 1985 relay is only $17 from O'Reilly. Even my time is worth more than that.
I get that...and YES I DO AGREE WITH you and your thoughts...you are correct but it would NOT require piercing the wire when you are checking the incoming 12 volts feeding the relay. Simply remove the relay connector (like you mentioned) and check the voltage coming INTO the relay and see if you are getting 12 volts. A person is going to be right there anyway...why not test it and verify before you go and drive for a part you may not need. And I am only responding the way I am is because I have done just that MANY times in the past. ASSUMING a part is bad only to find out it is a dirty connection or another issue is the problem...and the time I lost in skipping a step that I eventually had to do anyway to repair the problem. Do that a couple of times and it becomes almost second nature NOT to assume anything and test it first. I assume nothing any more.

In a given year...I can not keep track of how many Corvettes come into my shop where and when the owner replaced 'things'...just because the trouble code referred to that specific part...when it often times has nothing to do with that specific part...which is why it is in my shop and a lot of money has been spent on parts that were no needed.

Originally Posted by Bandit524
Can't be the base plate gasket; there was only one in the kit and this one is nearly 1/4" thick. Kit had two matching (thin) gaskets that matched the original gaskets and I installed them beneath each TB.
OOOPS...I missed the hard plastic stops made into the gasket... Not being able to see how thick it was...YES...the baseplate gasket for your throttle bodies is rather thin...about 1/16" or so. It may be a mess up in packaging. I would not worry about it..especially if you used the thin ones that did come in the kit. It is possible that it may be used on another Cross-Fire engine GM put in another car or truck.

DUB
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