PROFESSIONAL OPINION/RESPONSE:

Regardless of HOW the steel line got damaged is irrelevant.

YES...I am aware that there are rubber hoses...BUT...they ARE NOT ON TOP of the INTAKE!!!

A/C hoses that leak or blow will not set you car on fire like a leaking fuel hose CAN do.

YES...I am also aware of the GOOD rubber hoses...but that is NOT the point. Rubber hoses require replacement at some point. Steel lines can basically last....uhhhh...for....uhhhh....ever.

People can do 'things' how ever they want to....BUT...my thought processes on issues like this...if NOT carefully addressed...can cause for my business to get taken from me due to changing a design and something failing and an attorney getting a hold of that and I LOSE EVERYTHING.

AND...I can not count the number of times when person did their own fuel system 'cluster' and when they pull it into my shop and I raise the hood and feel the rubber fuel hose going to the carb...it is hard as a ROCK... and when I replace it...I can LITERALLY SNAP IT IN HALF. SO.......THIS is why I respond like I do. So many people forget things.

DUB

 

one problem repaired correctly.

On my volt meter...if I have the positive and negative switched when checking voltage...my display wills till show the voltage but there will be a (-) sign in front of the reading. TEST your volt meter on your battery and see what it does.

Fel-Pro. I have the number of it at the stop but not here at home....OR..you can call Fel-Pro and talk to tech and they can tell you. The kit will have the gaskets UNDER BOTH throttle bodies and also the COMPLETE intake gaskets where the intake bolts to the heads...ALONG with the BIG gasket for the top plate. Just to let you know.

'Jury' is out on this one. it will depend on how well the engine runs and if you have any issues.

I can say that when you get the factory service manual...and choose to do it...I would follow the steps of doing it to the LETTER. I have the manometer, IAC rubber plugs and all tools needed to do this....including a scanner...so attempting to do the balancing without the correct tools is just.... in my opinion. I do not have time to jerk around on something when i can buy what I need to do it by the book.

YES...that can be a little pesky son-of-a-gun. IF the tension on the TV cable is to much that it will not slide off the linkage stud. WAIT until you get the fuel lines off and when you are removing the throttle bodies...they can slid to where you need them so you can remove the cable end. JUST REMEMBER to re-install it when you are putting that throttle body back on.

DUB

 

Fel-Pro gasket set will be here tomorrow; owe you many beers!

 

Just to set the record straight, I've got brake line wrenches that I've used to try to break these fuel lines loose without success! Got the fuel return line loose using vise grips but that's not working with either the supply line or the line between TBs! Lucky I've got new lines in the mail. No way to make my own wrench either; any ideas?

 

who sells that fuel line?do you know the thread size?

 

Corvette Central for $39 and no!

 

I have the Snap-On 5/8" and 16mm flare wrenches. They have a LOT of meat at the wrench end. There reason I have both is sometimes somebody got in there with the wrong tool and I need the option and find the one that fits the flare nut TIGHT. If my memory serves me correctly..I use a 3/4" open end wrench to hold the fitting so I can break the flare nut loose.

I usually pull back hard and fast to see if I can shock it ...so-to-speak. IF that does not work.... I will apply a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone to the threads and then carefully tap on the nut so shock it lightly. Re-apply the mix and tap again and again.

In some cases I will get under this fitting with something solid and support it and use my air hammer and let the fast light shocking vibrate into the fitting WITHOUT gong full trigger and POUNDING the fitting to death. Knowing how to control the trigger is IMPORTANT HERE. And I might sit there with the air hammer tapping on it for 10-20 seconds.

I have Vice-Grips that I have ground the teeth off of and made smooth...and sometimes I use them for this type of issue.

YES..I also know how to carefully use heat ...and I will stop there.

And I know it does not help...but if all fails....I cut the line and make a new feed line and bend it. It is what is it sometimes. Keep in mind I am getting paid for this so I do not have days letting car sit waiting for some 'magic' to finally happen. I have to make decisions that make sense for me.

DUB

 

I've got new lines in the mail. What do you think about blowing the lines out and cutting with my Dremel?

 

Tube cutters would be way safer.

 

I was unfamiliar but you're definitely correct; just need to find them!

Thanks!!!

 

Just throwing this out there because I went though this a few months ago on my 82.

But check your alternator. I know it sounds funny but mine would crank over fine but wouldn't start. Turns out the alternator was bad. The crossfire likes a voltage well above 12 V I guess. I even had the old alternator tested at the parts store. Don't trust those testers! They are no good! I finally bought a new alternator and after charging the battery it fired right up, been good ever since.

 

Will do and thanks but first I've got to get both injectors firing; once complete I'm going to chase the 8 VDC pump gremlin.

 

How much of a hassle to replace supply fuel line to the front TB?

 

SIMPLE...you have dirty/loose circuits causing this...especially IF the battery is at 12+volts. If you battery shows 12 volts and you energize the fuel pump and you get 8 volts....you have dirty/loose connection SOMEWHERE between the battery and the fuel pump connection. The engine does NOT need to be running....so the alternator is NOT in the equation at all and NOT the problem. So...as it was made...turn the key on...the fuel pump runs for 2 seconds and that is when you can check it. IF you are NOT getting 12 volts to the fuel pump relay...then it is only logical that you can not get 12 volts to the fuel pump.

ALSO...the fuse in the battery box in the back corner.....make sure this fuse DOES NOT get HOT after the car has been running for a while. Feel it. If it is HOT...the fuse terminals are DIRTY and need to be cleaned and make sure the fuse feels like it is getting good tight contact when you re-install it. IF the fuse just 'falls into' the fuse terminals with little to no effort...the terminals need to be pushed together again so these terminals will grip onto the fuse terminals and make good contact...thus...NOT get hot..

Take a flash light and look. It is not that bad ...but then again it is NO PICNIC either. A/C compressor and or smog pump stuff...and if my memory serves me correctly...there is a hose line strap that holds the supply and return line to the engine block where the old style mechanical fuel pump was bolted to the engine block.

THE TRICK HERE is IF you are making a NEW supply line from scratch is to scribe or lightly etch a line lengthwise in the supply line tube...and cut the line where you scribed it so you KNOW that the lines when removed..will allow you to align the scribed line and make it so you can bend a a new line correctly...JUST AS LONG as when you are removing the one section of line you do not jack it all a round and bend it and can not use it as a template.

As for cutting the line..... I would use my air saw. I WOULD NOT use a cut-off wheel UNLESS I knew there would not be any excessive fuel running out of the line when I was cutting it.

DUB

 

Only had to cut the one fuel I twisted!

 

YEAH...that fuel line looks like it paid the price.

Glad to read you git it off.

DUB

 

Another pic!

 

Not planning on removing either TPS or IAC; your thoughts?

 

Any of you find yourself in a similar predicament, tried a tube cutter but would have taken forever and not enough room for a complete 360 on the line. So I blew out the lines from the filter forward (both directions), placed my shop vac near where i was cutting to suck up the metal particles, and used my Dremel (low speed) and took my time; worked like a charm!

 

It is a toss up. Removing the IAC would allow me to check it and see if things all look OK where the pintle seats..and the TPS would removed so I know the screws will come out an NOT break off in the future when it is back on the car.

HOW was the gasket between the intake and the top plate??? I bet it was dried up and cracking into pieces???

DUB