Didn't get much done on the car last night, but I did manage to get a bolt loose and take off the cut engine ground wire that bolts on the right side motor mount bracket on the chassis. Obviously as the picture shows mine has been cut. My aim give little to no information about this wire so am asking does anybody know how long it is actually supposed to be? I am guessing that it is about a number 4 copper wire. I have seen many cars with a braided wire that runs from engine block to frame for ground. Is there a better choice between the braided (and exposed) ground and the insulated wire? TIA



Sorry, not very clear (like Alan's photos!). Before removal

 

Hi AT,
The engine to frame ground wire is about 13 1/2" long (terminal hole to hole) and the AIM indicates it's a gauge 2.
There should be a star washer on the bolts at each end.
Regards,
Alan

 

It needs to be a #2 gauge stranded copper wire. Aluminum wire of the same size will not cut it. The terminals should be crimped AND soldered to get full contact. And the areas where the terminals mate should be cleaned down to bare metal. One end mounts to the frame and the other mounts to one of the right-side motor mount bolts (also connected to the starter front mount plate, which acts as a direct ground to the starter).

 

LONG time ago, back in the daze when knights were bold, and liquor was quicker, I renewed all my engine/battery grounds, and yes ground hell outta the frame to get it naked metal like women.... and I put a thin coating of RTV on all the metal before bolting it home, then covered the bolts and all with RTV.....all over protruding ends also.... been 20 years and engine hits fine......

 

For what this may be worth to you:

I have to deal with a lot of electrical repairs. And many times the Corvettes I work on are NOT factory perfect by a long shot. SO...I improve on many areas that can benefit from improvements.

In cases like what you have here....I go to the local welding supply store and buy a section of large welding cable. Often times I will go one or two sizes larger than what GM had. Most times I believe it is 0 gauge. I will often times re-use the factory ends if they are worthy and look good. IF not..I have new ones and I will solder and crimp them also. Then I will have already installed a piece of heat shrink tubing and slide it down to cover the joint. And this heat shrink tubing I use also provides some added strength to where the wire comes out of the terminal....thus less likely to bend right at the solder/crimp joint and possibly begin to fail....like you can somewhat see in Alans photo number one in POST #2. LOOK at the right side end of the ground cable and you can see how the insulation is pulling out of the crimp for it.

Then because I am using a welding cable....I slide on a woven stainless steel sleeve material and secure it to further protect it from heat and abrasion. Even though I know the wrap on the welding cable can handle heat...I am just being **** and not wanting a problem in the future.

And YES....even what that has been completed and installed. I will often times install the woven ground wires to add more ground. Because as we all know...you can not have too many grounds on a Corvette.

And YES...I use the external tooth washers to get a good bite in the metal and will make sure the surfaces are CLEAN and I prefer to apply a layer/coat of dielectric grease to protect the metal from rusting.

DUB

 

I also always improve on the birdcage ground and front rad support to chassis grounds

 

Good grounds are a must, I used 2ga welding cable. I like to use copper anti-seize to be decent conductive & corrosion resistant on any bare metal I clean for contact. Braided ground straps help with RFI, so if you have any electronics they are good.

I like to make my own cables a bit diff than others. I'll clean the inside of the copper lug with a sanding roll(sand/wire-wheel the outside too before you install it) then add some copper anti-seize for an anti-oxidant, use a cheap vise/hammer style lug crimper and shrink wrap it. Solder is more solid, but if the crimp is good it acts more like an anti-oxidant and doesn't conduct that great(why all soldered wires should be making contact with each other).