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Ok went to my box of power steering conversion kits parts that Dad bought for $50...
...and since I am working on the passenger side, I pulled up the idler arm for my next part to prepare for cleanup, paint and installation. It does leave me with questions (being a rookie on this, I have a ton of questions!). So here we go!
OK, this is the overall view. Holes seem fine, not wobbled out. Big question - Can these wear out? In all my years messing around cars I have never replaced one nor do I recall anybody else replacing one. Maybe I just missed it. It is very stiff and doesn't seem to move but I have not put it in a vise to check for certain. Are they supposed to move?
This is of the end that connects to the relay rod. It too is very stiff and doesn't move much. Is it supposed to? Thread looks good, but not sure about anything beyond that. I don't want to be just a parts changer, but it appears there is nothing to rebuild? want to save the moola where I can but don't wanna be cheap and not do what really needs done. Also, I have been heat treating my rattle can paint jobs at 200 degrees for half an hour. Would that adversely affect the rubber boot on it? Any thoughts or insight are greatly appreciated. Just in case you don't know my car is a '68 Coupe, not numbers matching with a BB. The frame is not original to car, probably a '69. It is in frame off status right now. Thanks for chiming in.
That looks like an original idler arm. OEM idler arms didn't have a grease fitting, while most aftermarket ones do.
You've got everything apart part already, and you can buy a new idler for about $50, so does it really pay to put a 40 year old "wear" part back, on your car?
What wears out on these parts are the joints (knuckles). It's difficult to know how worn/loose they are in a 'free' state. For the money...and the amount of trouble they are to change out...I would recommend that you replace them with new, QUALITY parts. Getting the low-dollar parts from the 'Zone' is NOT the way to go with parts on which your car and your LIFE depends.
Yes they do wear out, but if yours is tight at both ends, it will work as well as a new one.
So, it depends on your financial position and how much you care about the aesthetics (this one is rusty/corroded and really ugly).
Rust can be wire-brushed away and metal can be painted. But, that rust can be into the knuckle which could make it appear like it is 'tight'...until it gets worked when under load.
You can remove the rubber dust boots and get a better look at the joints. But, then you have to decide whether using old parts (maybe OK, maybe not) is a good option...or not.
If you are this financially frugal when dealing with simple (and relatively inexpensive) steering components, what will happen if a major component bites the dust???
Last edited by 7T1vette; Feb 10, 2016 at 06:22 AM.
If you are this financially frugal when dealing with simple (and relatively inexpensive) steering components, what will happen if a major component bites the dust???[/QUOTE]
LOL! The reason I am this financially frugal is because my other major components need the attention! Tranny is in the shop and engine is on the stand, the interior is completely out and essentially needing going through. This is a LONG term project and paid for little by little. Save money where I can, when I can. As previously stated, I don't want to be cheap and not replace things that need replaced, but I am not going to just blindly replace parts that can be rebuilt or don't need replacing. As stated, I have not previously heard of an idler arm being replaced. Now that I know they can go bad, I am making plans to replace it. And looking for a quality part to replace it with! Appreciate the help!
Like most rod/joint parts, if you keep them well lubed and don't abuse them, they can last a LONG time. Nothing wrong with using parts with 'age' on them, if you can determine that they are still viable.
Like I said, the choice is up to the owner.
P.S. Idler arms go bad with about the same frequency as the other jointed parts. And, since it is the 'grounded' part in the system, it usually sees the worst shock loading.
Last edited by 7T1vette; Feb 11, 2016 at 09:26 AM.
If you're not planning to rebuild the entire suspension, and your money's tight, I would assemble everything as-is. It's a lot easier to check for problems after the front end is together, and a good alignment shop should be able to tell you what's worn. My advice on this point comes in part from having a front end issue on my '64 at one time, and I replaced the idler on bad advice. It turned out the old one wasn't bad, and the problem was elsewhere.
If you're not planning to rebuild the entire suspension, and your money's tight, I would assemble everything as-is. It's a lot easier to check for problems after the front end is together, and a good alignment shop should be able to tell you what's worn. My advice on this point comes in part from having a front end issue on my '64 at one time, and I replaced the idler on bad advice. It turned out the old one wasn't bad, and the problem was elsewhere.
Front suspension has been rebuilt, 22 years ago, but has no miles on it. I am going through and refreshing grease, rebuilding calipers (which were also new) and finishing up what was not done. T/As have also been rebuilt and rear suspension too but still needing some more work back there. Needing brake and gas lines and other stuff too. This was not a running car when Dad got it and has donor car parts too. I am just starting at the front and working my way back going through things and making everything is the way it should be. For example, the new upper ball joints were in, bolted in but only tightened just beyond hand tight. They car was originally manual steering, but Dad bought a power steering assembly from a swap meet for $50 but it has sat in the box for 22 years. I have new tie rods, and new tie rod ends, just got the rebuilt power steering control valve, the cylinder is next. But will be changing the idler arm now that I know they can go bad.
Like most rod/joint parts, if you keep them well lubed and don't abuse them, they can last a LONG time. Nothing wrong with using parts with 'age' on them, if you can determine that they are still viable.
Like I said, the choice is up to the owner.
P.S. Idler arms go bad with about the same frequency as the other jointed parts. And, since it is the 'grounded' part in the system, it usually sees the worst shock loading.
Well since all the other jointed parts have been replaced, I will replace the idler at the same time so when things go out, they can go out together! Thanks for the input!
What wears out on these parts are the joints (knuckles). It's difficult to know how worn/loose they are in a 'free' state. For the money...and the amount of trouble they are to change out...I would recommend that you replace them with new, QUALITY parts. Getting the low-dollar parts from the 'Zone' is NOT the way to go with parts on which your car and your LIFE depends.
I know that if I even question the integrity of a part....especially when dealing with the steering...it gets replaced or the owner can take their Corvette back home.
Ok any recommendations on where to get replacement idler arm. I checked several forum vendors catalogue, and none say they are Moog while one does advertise a heavy duty "made in America" idler arm. Any input?
Ok any recommendations on where to get replacement idler arm. I checked several forum vendors catalogue, and none say they are Moog while one does advertise a heavy duty "made in America" idler arm. Any input?
I did a google search for Moog K6100, Amazon was cheapest, Summit, Jegs, were ok and RockAuto was close to Amazon. Advanced Auto had them in stock for twice the price.
Ok any recommendations on where to get replacement idler arm. I checked several forum vendors catalogue, and none say they are Moog while one does advertise a heavy duty "made in America" idler arm. Any input?
AT: I have not been on here in a while but just did a few things to the 78. Was going to replace idler arm but went ahead did Steeroids. I bought the idler arm from Jegs and have it at the garage. Won't be able to get it until next weekend but would be happy to send to you to help with the project. Send me your mailing address and I will ship it out. Texasfight
Idler arm questions
Tranny is in the shop and engine is on the stand, the interior is completely out and essentially needing going through. This is a LONG term project and paid for little by little. Save money where I can, when I can. As previously stated, I don't want to be cheap and not replace things that need replaced, but I am not going to just blindly replace parts that can be rebuilt or don't need replacing. As stated, I have not previously heard of an idler arm being replaced. Now that I know they can go bad, I am making plans to replace it. And looking for a quality part to replace it with! Appreciate the help!
I know that if I even question the integrity of a part....especially when dealing with the steering...it gets replaced or the owner can take their Corvette back home.
