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Rebuilding headlight actuators

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Old May 1, 2016 | 11:20 PM
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Default Rebuilding headlight actuators

Hi all,

I have one headlight that takes a long time to come up, and in fact, it never comes all the way up...I need to get out of the car and pull/lift it the rest of the way. From what I have read, it seems like I may need to rebuild the actuator?

I found this video on Youtube...any of you that have done this...do you agree with this video, or do you have other suggestions in "how to?"


Assuming this video is about correct...are there any brands/repair kits that you all recommend over others?

Thanks!
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Old May 2, 2016 | 04:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Mpls Funk
Hi all,

I have one headlight that takes a long time to come up, and in fact, it never comes all the way up...I need to get out of the car and pull/lift it the rest of the way. From what I have read, it seems like I may need to rebuild the actuator?


Assuming this video is about correct...are there any brands/repair kits that you all recommend over others?
It shows only the outer seal. I did this repair several years ago but it wasn't enough. There is an internal rubber diaphragm that tears and the can must be opened up to replace. A special tool is required to open up the canister to get the diaphragm open and replace it.
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Old May 2, 2016 | 08:09 AM
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Anyone know where I can get the internal diaphragm
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Old May 2, 2016 | 09:24 AM
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Do you know for sure that the actuators are the problem? Usually, the vacuum relay[s] are the issue. To test the actuators, just take the (center) vacuum feed hose off of the relay and hook it directly to each port of the actuator being tested. If the actuator pops open and closed easily, it is not your problem. If it still won't open and close well, you are working in the right area. [But, vacuum relays may still be an issue.]

Last edited by 7T1vette; May 2, 2016 at 09:25 AM.
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Old May 2, 2016 | 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
Do you know for sure that the actuators are the problem? Usually, the vacuum relay[s] are the issue. To test the actuators, just take the (center) vacuum feed hose off of the relay and hook it directly to each port of the actuator being tested. If the actuator pops open and closed easily, it is not your problem. If it still won't open and close well, you are working in the right area. [But, vacuum relays may still be an issue.]


I would not bother with changing the internal diaphragm. That said as above, get a small pump like in the HF brake bleeder kit, and TEST everything first.

Especially new parts, they are not 100% good either.

Last edited by mikem350; May 2, 2016 at 11:18 AM.
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Old May 2, 2016 | 01:12 PM
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I rebuilt my relays and actuators which worked fine for a couple of years, then they started leaking again. Ended up just replacing with new relays and actuators. Wish I had replaced to begin with, but I was trying to save a few bucks.
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Old May 2, 2016 | 01:17 PM
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The old mans car was doing that. We found a small rust hole in the actuator. Some JB Weld and it works like new again.

Best way to check is by running a vacuum line directly to each port as already posted.
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Old May 2, 2016 | 03:23 PM
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Thanks guys...fair point, I have not tested to be sure this is the problem. I believe I have a little hand vacuum pump. I will remove the hoses from the actuator and try pulling vacuum on each side to see if it moves or not...or can hold a vacuum or not.
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Old May 3, 2016 | 12:33 AM
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You can test them with a hand pump...if you have a strong grip. But, it's not like how they respond when hooked up to the engine. If you can't operate the engine, the vacuum pump is a decent way to go.
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Old May 3, 2016 | 08:46 AM
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Hi R76,
I'm curious about you rebuilding your actuators….what tools did you use to get the halves apart and then how did you re-crimp the seam when putting them back together?
Also, where did you find the new seals for the diaphragms?
Thanks very much!
Regards,
Alan
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Old May 3, 2016 | 09:37 PM
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I'm trying to troubleshoot why one headlight does not come all the way up with just vacuum. It starts coming up after the other one, then goes very slowly to about 1/2 way up...then I get out of the car and lift it the rest of the way.

So, I removed the red hose and attached a hand held vacuum pump (light in the down/off position). It seems to hold vacuum. I then pushed/lifted the light to the up position and removed the green hose and attached the vacuum pump...and it won't hold vacuum at all.

Based on this - from what I have read, the internal diaphragm is good, but I need to rebuild the actuator with the rubber grommet thingy as shown in the video I originally posted. Do you all agree with this assessment?
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Old May 3, 2016 | 10:21 PM
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You have successfully diagnosed your headlight problem. Next you can test your relays with your vacuum pump. Connect the pump to the middle port on the relay. Block the lower port, then pump it up. The relay should block any passage of vacuum through it. Once you have the actuators and the relays vacuum tight, you will be amazed at the difference.

Last edited by Dave J; May 3, 2016 at 10:22 PM. Reason: I'm a lousy speller
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Old Jun 28, 2016 | 11:32 PM
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Update - I ordered the repair kit...removed the actuator...had someone media blast it...painted it...replaced the rubber seals...installed...and it works!! This is the first time since I have owned the car that the lights worked like they are supposed to! I even paid someone to try fixing them once...sure enough, I found a significant hole in the rubber seal. Thanks for all of your help and advice...very pleased with the results. (the paint doesn't look all bad either)
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Old Jun 29, 2016 | 02:47 AM
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Super glad you found the problem. I just went through the same thing. Here's what i have to add to the posts and several video's (just like you researched):
              I know you already have your issue fixed, but added these steps in case it helps.

              (It turns out i am going with super aggressive cam so i need to get a vac pump anyway..another topic for another post. :-) )

              Last edited by Cool bean; Jun 29, 2016 at 03:00 AM.
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