Front suspension and steering
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
Before you mess with the steering box, you need to get most of the other steering issues resolved. Rebuild or replace the ragjoint if you find that there is lost motion in its movement (lock in place the steering shaft below the ragjoint and test for motion in upper shaft).
Once there is no lost motion in that joint, evaluate looseness in steering link joints. You can take the car to a reputable alignment shop and ask them to check steering for looseness and tell you what needs to be repaired/replaced; or you can have someone in your driver's seat operating the steering wheel while you watch action in the steering links. The steering wheel needs to be moved right to left but only as far as there is NO movement in the tires. If you have power steering, you need to have the engine running; for manual steering, the engine can be OFF. As the steering wheel is turned back and forth within that range, watch for ANY movement in the steering links (ie, buckling, twisting, etc.). If the joints are tight, you really shouldn't see any shifting of linkage or idler arm movement. Where you see movement, there is at least one sloppy joint.
When ragjoint and linkage have little lost motion in them, THEN you can test the steering box. So, get to that point and we can detail the "next steps". And you need to do this whether or not you decide to convert to manual steering.
Once there is no lost motion in that joint, evaluate looseness in steering link joints. You can take the car to a reputable alignment shop and ask them to check steering for looseness and tell you what needs to be repaired/replaced; or you can have someone in your driver's seat operating the steering wheel while you watch action in the steering links. The steering wheel needs to be moved right to left but only as far as there is NO movement in the tires. If you have power steering, you need to have the engine running; for manual steering, the engine can be OFF. As the steering wheel is turned back and forth within that range, watch for ANY movement in the steering links (ie, buckling, twisting, etc.). If the joints are tight, you really shouldn't see any shifting of linkage or idler arm movement. Where you see movement, there is at least one sloppy joint.
When ragjoint and linkage have little lost motion in them, THEN you can test the steering box. So, get to that point and we can detail the "next steps". And you need to do this whether or not you decide to convert to manual steering.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 1,939
Likes: 477
From: NSW, Australia
C3 of Year Finalist (track prepared) 2019
Before you mess with the steering box, you need to get most of the other steering issues resolved. Rebuild or replace the ragjoint if you find that there is lost motion in its movement (lock in place the steering shaft below the ragjoint and test for motion in upper shaft).
Once there is no lost motion in that joint, evaluate looseness in steering link joints. You can take the car to a reputable alignment shop and ask them to check steering for looseness and tell you what needs to be repaired/replaced; or you can have someone in your driver's seat operating the steering wheel while you watch action in the steering links. The steering wheel needs to be moved right to left but only as far as there is NO movement in the tires. If you have power steering, you need to have the engine running; for manual steering, the engine can be OFF. As the steering wheel is turned back and forth within that range, watch for ANY movement in the steering links (ie, buckling, twisting, etc.). If the joints are tight, you really shouldn't see any shifting of linkage or idler arm movement. Where you see movement, there is at least one sloppy joint.
When ragjoint and linkage have little lost motion in them, THEN you can test the steering box. So, get to that point and we can detail the "next steps". And you need to do this whether or not you decide to convert to manual steering.
Once there is no lost motion in that joint, evaluate looseness in steering link joints. You can take the car to a reputable alignment shop and ask them to check steering for looseness and tell you what needs to be repaired/replaced; or you can have someone in your driver's seat operating the steering wheel while you watch action in the steering links. The steering wheel needs to be moved right to left but only as far as there is NO movement in the tires. If you have power steering, you need to have the engine running; for manual steering, the engine can be OFF. As the steering wheel is turned back and forth within that range, watch for ANY movement in the steering links (ie, buckling, twisting, etc.). If the joints are tight, you really shouldn't see any shifting of linkage or idler arm movement. Where you see movement, there is at least one sloppy joint.
When ragjoint and linkage have little lost motion in them, THEN you can test the steering box. So, get to that point and we can detail the "next steps". And you need to do this whether or not you decide to convert to manual steering.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 89
Likes: 2
From: Mobile Alabama
Thanks for the good pointers. I will be replacing all the wear components anyway and thought it might be worth have the box on hand as I will have everything apart. Based on these points, I may wait on the box till I have the other parts done then decide on the box.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
Once the 'wear' parts have been repaired/replaced, you can do simple testing to assess the state of the steering box. Start a new thread on that if you need to do so. I can also guide you on how to replace the grease in the steering box. If you want to do that while you are into repair of the steering system components, that would be the right time to do so.
Lifelong Vette Lover
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 177
Likes: 35
From: Naples FL
Steering Box Location
Does anyone know if there is a slight difference in the location of the steering box between 68 and 69 (I had heard from one person that there was)?
I restored a 68 chassis as my original 69 chassis was pretty rotted. When I installed the original steering box on the "new" chassis, the frame bolt pattern was exactly the same but when reconnecting the steering column to the rag joint, there was about 1/4 to 3/4" more space between them. I did finally manage to connect them but I had to move the upper flange down the steering column shaft quite a bit further to reach the rag joint and now it's right at the end of the shaft. It makes me nervous that when I get to drive it, it may not be safe. Also, I'm getting some binding when the wheel is turned, though I've not actually driven the car yet. Moving the box about 1/2" toward the rear would solve the issue but it's not quite that simple! Any thoughts would be most appreciated.
Jack
I restored a 68 chassis as my original 69 chassis was pretty rotted. When I installed the original steering box on the "new" chassis, the frame bolt pattern was exactly the same but when reconnecting the steering column to the rag joint, there was about 1/4 to 3/4" more space between them. I did finally manage to connect them but I had to move the upper flange down the steering column shaft quite a bit further to reach the rag joint and now it's right at the end of the shaft. It makes me nervous that when I get to drive it, it may not be safe. Also, I'm getting some binding when the wheel is turned, though I've not actually driven the car yet. Moving the box about 1/2" toward the rear would solve the issue but it's not quite that simple! Any thoughts would be most appreciated.
Jack
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
The steering column is 'collapsible'. When the ragjoint was removed, forces may have been applied that compressed the column to provide adequate removal space. The box needs to be tilted/dropped to get this done properly.
Last edited by 7T1vette; Oct 13, 2016 at 01:19 PM.
Lifelong Vette Lover
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 177
Likes: 35
From: Naples FL
Thanks much. Never thought about that. That said, I never took the column out of the car. It remained with the body during the frame swap, though it's entirely possible the bottom of the shaft got pushed in slightly somewhere along the way.
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Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 89
Likes: 2
From: Mobile Alabama