bmans vette

Thanks. Once you are all done it would be nice to see the whole rear suspension list.

I need to get back on mine now that some projects are out of the way.

Take care!

bmans vette

Looks like the secret was out awhile ago.......

Here is my Super 10 from last year........

You cannot go wrong with ARP stuff for sure.

76strokervette

I run Amsoil severe gear 75/140 in my diesel truck and wanted to see how it would do in the eaton differential. His first observation is you will want to still use the Gm additive although it will probably work without it.
The 2nd observation was the extreme pressure capabilities of this oil are like nothing he has ever seen. He described it as the oil bonds to the steel at a molecular level and the bond is very difficult to break.

cardo0

What's your opinion on cryrogenic treatment for rear end parts? I've shopping around and cryro treatment for the ring and pinion is only like 50 bucks. But nobody in my town does it and would have to ship to LA.

Off-road and hill/rock climbers are popular customers for this. Not many drag racers though. The aircraft Red Bull racers use it for their aluminum engine blocks and they claim engine life increases by multiple factors over non-treated race engines. It's supposed to convert the steel to different carbon content and reduce stress concentrations.

I really wanted to cold treat an engine block but it's usually more than the cost of a used block itself.

76strokervette

Cryogenic and rem treatments do work and are common practice in many
of the professional racing venues.

bmans vette

Hey David
Cannot see pics of front yoke. Is it a 1350 billet yoke from Tom's or did you build your own?
I see you producing several new items that are either improvements on old designs or replacements for ones hard to find.
As you well know the drive shaft for a C3 with a different than stock trans or diff can be the next week link inline. Especially if one set of u-joints are 1330 and another are 1350.
I have one of Tom's last 1350 yokes on the front of my Super10.
The trans going in will be a T-56 beefed up.
So my question is....do you see enough need to make a removable strap 1350 yoke for a T-56 and a matching removable strap setup for the diff yoke?
My understanding is that removable ends with straps are the only way to get a large drive shaft into place.
Considering the yoke itself set me back $162.50 it seems that similar produced quality pieces would be in demand and people will pay the price. I would.
Interested in your thoughts.

Thanks
Dennis

76strokervette

When Bill posts his build thread it will cover the driveshaft questions.
He is using the Toms pinion yoke and a Moser slip yoke. Both are 1350 yokes. His unit should be called the UD (Ultimate Duty) 10 due to everything being shot peened and polished,cryo and rem with 1480 half shafts. I don't believe there is anything that can be added to make it stronger. Just my opinion.

bmans vette

Thanks Dave.
Bill is my half-a-year neighbor.....
Been hoping to see his build rolling any day now.
I know he could not go 12 bolt as he wanted to stay in the low 3's for the rear.
He probably will have the only UD10 out there......

76strokervette

Pictures of assembled trailing arms

bmans vette

Sweet!
What the lug nuts will you use?
I have the same 1/2" wheel studs but have not decided whether to cut them down and use solid lug nuts that cover the shaft or open lug nuts that just go all the way down.
Keep up the details.
Thanks
Dennis

76strokervette

I will be running open lug nuts so the studs will not get shortened. I kept stock brake size in rear just in case slicks end up on the back.
I will post picture of brake rotor as all surfaces were trued to the spindle
including the ebrake diameter in the rotor.

bmans vette

Thanks Dave.

Nice pic.

If you trued the rotor to the spindle does that mean you will not have to shim it? And how did you do that? Turn the rotor on a lathe?

Great info.
Dennis

TCracingCA

I hate to bring this up, as you are going top notch on everything, but I just thought the stock trailing arms were so ugly done, in welding and tolerances, etc. (production pieces), that over 30 years ago I took them off to go aftermarket, and just threw them in one of my garages, never to go on another one of my cars. And a lot of other stock stuff, suffered the same fate!

And then the replacement nice Van Steel off set units that I home modified, suffered the same fate, and are now just throw in one of the garages, being replaced by Race bred multi-link units.

76strokervette

Yes the intent is to eliminate shimming. Parts were turned on lathe by Mike as a regular brake lathe you will not be able to turn all the surfaces.

76strokervette

I hear you but car has been sitting for too long and I want new drive train dialed in this summer. I haven't had any way to take measurements due to car not having any suspension in the car for 18 months. When I start putting it back together I will probably take some measurements and make a plan. I have ideas on using 1480 u-joints and not needing the saw to make room etc... It will all depend on if I can allocate enough time. If I remember most of the components actually mount to the bearing support which is probably why the stock arms work.

76strokervette

Picture of u-joint clamp to pinion yoke. I believed it was asked earlier if it fits both ends and the answer is a definite yes.

76strokervette

Latest prep pictures before center goes back in.

76strokervette

Differential center mounted on car. Now time for some measurements and new strut rods.

427Hotrod

Looking great.....might double ck the chamfer on the inside of rotor stud holes. My ARP studs left a small shoulder sticking out from axle flange and I needed to put a larger chamfer on the rotors to allow rotor to fit flush on axle.

JIM

Stingxray

The stud shank does stick out a little bit........