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The switch connector has a nub on it and the switch has one as well, these are supposed to prevent you from installing it backwards.... however it is possible to get it on there backwards. What happens when they are backwards... it's been a long time since I've seen this but if my memory is right, the motor will just click, it won't run backwards so I don't think this is his problem but it's still worth looking at.
The illustration below shows the connector in the proper orientation.
Willcox
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; Dec 15, 2016 at 02:55 PM.
If I did it correctly there is no ground when you push the switch in.
I may have damaged the new switch putting the sleeve on the stem
And the ****. I think it worked better until I did that . Not sure what
I will do wipers are not that important. I have a 2nd gear grinding
Problem to deal with next. Ed Hartnettt here I come!
The supplier of the new switch will not stand behind it .
What to do ? He resides here.
NOT TRUE, you didn't want to test anything and now I see this post. Interesting. You told me you had power at the switch, I asked you to test a couple of leads and then you started telling me we don't stand behind anything. That is not true, we stand behind it. Follow the schematic that Ernie laid out for you, the circuit is not difficult and it is not difficult to test the switch. Everyone in this thread is trying to explain this to you and you have not come back with one thing you have tested yet. Also both wires on your wiper pump being black does not mean anything other than someone painted them or used a replacement leads at some point, but there is still a power and ground. I don't know if it matters if they are inserted backwards or not, but its a start. You should have NO power on the washer terminal on the switch, and since the switch doesn't have batteries there is something that is provided positive power to it, my guess is that is where the problem starts. Since you have never answered these questions for me it is a little difficult to help you any further until you do that.
Justin
Last edited by Zip Corvettes; Dec 22, 2016 at 10:28 AM.
NOT TRUE, you didn't want to test anything and now I see this post. Interesting. You told me you had power at the switch, I asked you to test a couple of leads and then you started telling me we don't stand behind anything. That is not true, we stand behind it. Follow the schematic that Ernie laid out for you, the circuit is not difficult and it is not difficult to test the switch. Everyone in this thread is trying to explain this to you and you have not come back with one thing you have tested yet. Also both wires on your wiper pump being black does not mean anything other than someone painted them or used a replacement leads at some point, but there is still a power and ground. I don't know if it matters if they are inserted backwards or not, but its a start. You should have NO power on the washer terminal on the switch, and since the switch doesn't have batteries there is something that is provided positive power to it, my guess is that is where the problem starts. Since you have never answered these questions for me it is a little difficult to help you any further until you do that.
Justin
This is the first time I am seeing this ,and I did not mention you.
NOT TRUE, you didn't want to test anything and now I see this post. Interesting. You told me you had power at the switch, I asked you to test a couple of leads and then you started telling me we don't stand behind anything. That is not true, we stand behind it. Follow the schematic that Ernie laid out for you, the circuit is not difficult and it is not difficult to test the switch. Everyone in this thread is trying to explain this to you and you have not come back with one thing you have tested yet. Also both wires on your wiper pump being black does not mean anything other than someone painted them or used a replacement leads at some point, but there is still a power and ground. I don't know if it matters if they are inserted backwards or not, but its a start. You should have NO power on the washer terminal on the switch, anid since the switch doesn't have batteries there is something that is provided positive power to it, my guess is that is where the problem starts. Since you have never answered these questions for me it is a little difficult to help you any further until you do that.
Justin
I have switched the wires as Alan suggested last week just haven't
Tried it yet . I get busy with work now and then. I will try soon and let
You know. And I will send pics.yhanls again
This is the first time I am seeing this ,and I did not mention you.
Jim,
I am comparing what I saw here vs. your email. You did not mention be by name but you mentioned us. All the same to me.
So on to your problem, the 69 setup is different but the wiper leads are the same but they are hooked up differently. There is a brown plug with a yellow and blue wire in it. They hook up to your anti drip solenoid. You then have two jumper wires that go over to the leads on the washer pump and they are black. Your wiper leads are still yellow and blue. The yellow wire will have 12v on it, I don't recall if this is a ign 12v or only when the switch is on, which would apply ground to a solenoid to power the 12v. In order for any of it to work it needs a ground, so either the ground inside of the switch is bad, but all of the ones I have tested here are good, just haven't heard of the test on yours yet. Or you may have something shorted to ground. My whole point is from the very beginning though is you have to test it to figure out where the ground is coming from.
Justin
Jim,
I am comparing what I saw here vs. your email. You did not mention be by name but you mentioned us. All the same to me.
So on to your problem, the 69 setup is different but the wiper leads are the same but they are hooked up differently. There is a brown plug with a yellow and blue wire in it. They hook up to your anti drip solenoid. You then have two jumper wires that go over to the leads on the washer pump and they are black. Your wiper leads are still yellow and blue. The yellow wire will have 12v on it, I don't recall if this is a ign 12v or only when the switch is on, which would apply ground to a solenoid to power the 12v. In order for any of it to work it needs a ground, so either the ground inside of the switch is bad, but all of the ones I have tested here are good, just haven't heard of the test on yours yet. Or you may have something shorted to ground. My whole point is from the very beginning though is you have to test it to figure out where the ground is coming from.
Justin
Justin ,I am sorry for saying what I said the switch works but the washers
Work all the time. Tommorow I will have time to take it apart again .your
Switch looked just like the other one . Sorry again. I have a ground at the
Black lead to the washer . I am having an issue with the door staying up
The wiper does not return far enough to hit the seloniod so the door will
Not close ,maybe the wrong arm on the new pump ,will try the old arm
Tommorow ,if work leaves me alone . I tried switching the leads I don't think
It worked . Thanks again to Zips . I will get back to you again
Hi JB,
Electrical things are beyond my abilities…. so I'll offer what I can.
You describe the arm on the wiper transmission not contacting the plunger on the 3 port interlock switch.
Is the wiper motor going to the 'park' position? Perhaps that's what you mean when you say "maybe the wrong arm on the new pump"?.
IF it IS going to park, does the position of the switch need to be adjusted up toward the arm?
Regards,
Alan
Hi JB,
Electrical things are beyond my abilities…. so I'll offer what I can.
You describe the arm on the wiper transmission not contacting the plunger on the 3 port interlock switch.
Is the wiper motor going to the 'park' position? Perhaps that's what you mean when you say "maybe the wrong arm on the new pump"?.
IF it IS going to park, does the position of the switch need to be adjusted up toward the arm?
Regards,
Alan
Hello Alan ,your pic is right on . The arm does not come down far enough
To close the door . I was thinking the short piece on the back of the
Motor may be longer than the one that was on the old motor. Or
I will readjust the wiper arms to see if I can get them to go down farther.
I get that . Not sure about the washers yet! Thanks again
Jim,
If you have a ground wire at the washer pump that is the problem. The yellow wire on the anti drip becomes hot once the switch is on, the wiper switch grounds the first terminal when you push in on the switch, this sends the ground signal to the washer pump to operate. You should have NO ground until you push the switch in. If you have a constant ground the washer will turn on immediately when you turn on the wipers because the yellow line goes hot.
The wiper vac switch in the picture is adjustable. If the door is popping up on its own, it is because you are losing the vac signal on the small blk white strip control line. Fine a evap smoker and hook it up to the line and you will find the leak.
Jim,
If you have a ground wire at the washer pump that is the problem. The yellow wire on the anti drip becomes hot once the switch is on, the wiper switch grounds the first terminal when you push in on the switch, this sends the ground signal to the washer pump to operate. You should have NO ground until you push the switch in. If you have a constant ground the washer will turn on immediately when you turn on the wipers because the yellow line goes hot.
The wiper vac switch in the picture is adjustable. If the door is popping up on its own, it is because you are losing the vac signal on the small blk white strip control line. Fine a evap smoker and hook it up to the line and you will find the leak.
I will work on that thanks again ,don't think I have a ground ,
Thanks again .
Hi JbB,
Here's the link at the wiper motor for the right side transmission arm.
I don't know if this picture might alert you to something you're seeing (or not seeing) on your wipers.
(Again, a 71.)
Regards,
Alan
Hi JbB,
Here's the link at the wiper motor for the right side transmission arm.
I don't know if this picture might alert you to something you're seeing (or not seeing) on your wipers.
(Again, a 71.)
Regards,
Alan
That's looks just like mine ,just add the wiper arms
Thanks, it shows the stop off to the side like mine ,the manuals
Show it in the center. No big deal but I did wonder about it for a while.
Yes I did and the switch seems fine ,but both leads are hot when the key is
On . When you push the switch ,I don't know yet . I am trying to post some pics .
But I will be interested if when you get it working....and crank your car....the wiper door opens...and then goes back down. IF that happens...I have found what the problem is ...especially if vacuum parts have been replaced.