changing tires/wheels?dumb ??
12-19-2016, 05:55 PM
#21
Safety Car
Member Since: May 2004
Location: los altos hills california
Posts: 3,607
Received 1,126 Likes
on
730 Posts
So ... nobody suggested using the car? Torque aplenty. Just a long enough wrench handle to touch the ground and back up a scooch. What could go wrong?
Last edited by ignatz; 12-19-2016 at 05:56 PM.
12-19-2016, 06:00 PM
#22
Advanced
pipe
pipe works for me every time with little effort
12-19-2016, 06:07 PM
#23
Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp
Member Since: Mar 2011
Location: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Posts: 5,338
Received 1,199 Likes
on
925 Posts
Royal Canadian Navy
Famous last words! I used a floor jack once to leverage the handle of a breaker bar and it worked but now I have a length of pipe. Quicker and easier.
12-19-2016, 06:14 PM
#24
Safety Car
Member Since: May 2004
Location: los altos hills california
Posts: 3,607
Received 1,126 Likes
on
730 Posts
And for those who may not know this...back in the day...the lug nut torque was 60 lbs/ft....which I would NEVER do. REGARDLESS of what was written in the assembly manual. I actually ahve tried it and I felt really weird when the torque wrench clicked. It seemed to be barely above hand tight.
DUB
Here's one such calculator
http://www.engineersedge.com/calcula...orque_calc.htm
12-19-2016, 06:22 PM
#25
Race Director
DUB: Have you ever tried out the online bolt torque calculators? Last time I used one a 5/8" bolt torqued to 75 lb-ft came out a phenomenal 7000 # load.
Here's one such calculator
http://www.engineersedge.com/calcula...orque_calc.htm
Here's one such calculator
http://www.engineersedge.com/calcula...orque_calc.htm
...and YES...I DO. It all depends on what I am doing when I have an area of major structural concern.
DUB
12-19-2016, 08:50 PM
#26
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
The following users liked this post:
DUB (12-20-2016)
12-19-2016, 11:48 PM
#27
Team Owner
If I had chrome nuts, I'd not use an impact gun, either. But, happily, my nuts are just plain old mild steel...ungreased, as well. And I have yet to chip any of my nuts. 
I love my electric impact. It makes 'tire life' easy.
I love my electric impact. It makes 'tire life' easy.
12-20-2016, 11:18 AM
#28
Funny how the 'battery impacts' are taking over. About the only thing I use the compressor for now is my 1/2" impact because I don't have a 1/2" battery impact. One is on my wish list lol.
And about the lug nuts - I have always used Anti-Seize (lightly) on the threads. Now I see this may not be a good idea.
Jim
And about the lug nuts - I have always used Anti-Seize (lightly) on the threads. Now I see this may not be a good idea.
Jim
12-20-2016, 11:24 AM
#29
Race Director
DUB is correct. Clean the threads of the lugs with a wire brush or a thread chaser if they have surface rust on them and reinstall the nuts dry. The only time I've added a light amount of grease is to my boat trailer wheels and then I re-adjusted the torque value.
The following users liked this post:
jim in oregon (12-20-2016)
12-20-2016, 02:45 PM
#30
Le Mans Master
Funny how the 'battery impacts' are taking over. About the only thing I use the compressor for now is my 1/2" impact because I don't have a 1/2" battery impact. One is on my wish list lol.
And about the lug nuts - I have always used Anti-Seize (lightly) on the threads. Now I see this may not be a good idea.
Jim
And about the lug nuts - I have always used Anti-Seize (lightly) on the threads. Now I see this may not be a good idea.
Jim
Or drive a DD on winter salted roads for several years and try to get the lug nuts off if you don't. Or the wheels for that matter LOL. Some antisieze between the wheel and the hub may be a good idea.
Sure adjust the torque some, but as pointed out the threads can take the additional torque of going from 80 to 100 lb/ft. So they are not too picky in the torque department unless you really over torque them, then it's the studs that give up the ghost.
I had a friend that had 4 of 6 lugs break off due to overtorquing from a tire shop. The threads on the remaining lugs were still good..ish, but the studs needed replacement.
Last edited by REELAV8R; 12-20-2016 at 02:48 PM.
12-20-2016, 06:00 PM
#31
Race Director
Obviously using common sense is best if a person uses anti-seize compound. And if a vehicle is exposed to hash elements...then frequent inspection is also wise. Seems that some people know how to use it with no ill effects.
When I used to use anti-seize compound a long time ago when I did not know what I know now. It was always the nut that lost its threads and never the bolt or stud. They would literally pull right out and be a spiral circle of threads when I took it off the bolt or stud....much like a heli-coil.
I DO use anti-seize compound where the center hub and wheel darn near mate together.
And on some cars where the backside of the ALUMINUM wheel where it contacts the rotor..I will apply a very thin film of it due to the car is getting exposed to salt and I can see the galvanic action eating away some of the aluminum. If they are steel wheels and I see it...I do the same thing to them.
DUB
When I used to use anti-seize compound a long time ago when I did not know what I know now. It was always the nut that lost its threads and never the bolt or stud. They would literally pull right out and be a spiral circle of threads when I took it off the bolt or stud....much like a heli-coil.
I DO use anti-seize compound where the center hub and wheel darn near mate together.
And on some cars where the backside of the ALUMINUM wheel where it contacts the rotor..I will apply a very thin film of it due to the car is getting exposed to salt and I can see the galvanic action eating away some of the aluminum. If they are steel wheels and I see it...I do the same thing to them.
DUB
12-20-2016, 07:48 PM
#32
Race Director
If your 1/2" breaker bar isn't long enough to break the torque on a bolt or nut, use extreme caution using a piece of pipe to increase the length of the bar. I tried that one time and thought "thank you" the extra length is working, then noticed that the 1/2" drive on the end of the breaker bar was actually twisting and the bolt head wasn't. I let off and inspected the bar and found the drive had fractured, the pin was dislodged and the end of the breaker bar was disfigured. I buy good quality tools not the cheap stuff. I was lucky, I've heard horror stories of people using pipe extensions, bars breaking and people getting seriously injured. Breaker bars are cheap, purchase a longer one designed for the torque you are pulling or upgrade to a 3/4" drive breaker bar and sockets. I think you will find a piece of pipe in the socket and ratchet drawer of Bubba's tool box. 
12-20-2016, 10:37 PM
#33
Le Mans Master
If your 1/2" breaker bar isn't long enough to break the torque on a bolt or nut, use extreme caution using a piece of pipe to increase the length of the bar. I tried that one time and thought "thank you" the extra length is working, then noticed that the 1/2" drive on the end of the breaker bar was actually twisting and the bolt head wasn't. I let off and inspected the bar and found the drive had fractured, the pin was dislodged and the end of the breaker bar was disfigured. I buy good quality tools not the cheap stuff. I was lucky, I've heard horror stories of people using pipe extensions, bars breaking and people getting seriously injured. Breaker bars are cheap, purchase a longer one designed for the torque you are pulling or upgrade to a 3/4" drive breaker bar and sockets. I think you will find a piece of pipe in the socket and ratchet drawer of Bubba's tool box.
40 miles from anywhere In a field with a nut that won't come loose you don't have access to just the right tool, you improvise, just be smart about it.
12-21-2016, 01:15 PM
#34
Team Owner
One old 'trick' for getting nuts to come off more easily (without affecting the application torque) is to brush some Maalox on the studs and let it dry. That while 'powder' won't change the frictional characteristics of the bolted joint; but it will keep the two pieces from rusting together over long periods of time.
12-21-2016, 02:03 PM
#35
Le Mans Master
One old 'trick' for getting nuts to come off more easily (without affecting the application torque) is to brush some Maalox on the studs and let it dry. That while 'powder' won't change the frictional characteristics of the bolted joint; but it will keep the two pieces from rusting together over long periods of time.
Hmm I kinda like the idea. How long does it take maalox to dry? Could a guy dry it with a heat gun? Don't really want to make putting a tire on an hour long process.
Maybe you could put the lug on with it still wet? The maalox should dry eventually with the same results shouldn't it?
Last edited by REELAV8R; 12-21-2016 at 02:04 PM.
12-21-2016, 05:41 PM
#36
Race Director
Call me bubba then. As with all things mechanical you got to use some common sense. Experience goes a long way too. Knowing how much force is reasonable and how much is not.
40 miles from anywhere In a field with a nut that won't come loose you don't have access to just the right tool, you improvise, just be smart about it.
40 miles from anywhere In a field with a nut that won't come loose you don't have access to just the right tool, you improvise, just be smart about it.
100%. 'Necessity is the mother of all inventions" as I have heard.DUB