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Old Mar 8, 2017 | 10:03 AM
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Default centered rear wheels

Apologies in advance. I just spent an hour searching through 10 years of old threads and Google and cannot find an answer.

Later this summer I will be installing a rear tire that is close to 27" tall. The tire will come very close to the front lip similar to this picture (not my car).



I want to center the rear wheels in the well. We all saw the episode of Fast'nLoud where he redrilled the mounting hole but I would rather not do that.

Does anyone make a 1) longer control arm, 2) or offset bushings, 3) or eccentric/offset "crash" bolts that can be adjusted longer, 4) or a control arm with a rod end instead of a bushing that can be adjusted for length?

I have built custom control arms for other car project when forced to because nothing was in the aftermarket but in this case surely there is something out there.
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Last edited by Dynra Rockets; Mar 8, 2017 at 10:18 AM.
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Old Mar 8, 2017 | 10:31 AM
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Hi DR,
When you reposition or lengthen the trailing arm doesn't that adversely affect the angle of the half shafts' connections to the differential?.
Regards,
Alan
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Old Mar 8, 2017 | 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Alan 71
Hi DR,
When you reposition or lengthen the trailing arm doesn't that adversely affect the angle of the half shafts' connections to the differential?.
Regards,
Alan
Adversely? No. Correct it will change the angle but talking about 1/2" here so surely well within the design spec of the U joints as they move much more than that during regular travel.

Last edited by Dynra Rockets; Mar 8, 2017 at 10:48 AM.
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Old Mar 8, 2017 | 11:25 AM
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what about the strut rods are they going to swing smoothly through their arc if the outer end is pushed back a 1/2"?
I assume you are trying to do this for purely appearances?
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Old Mar 8, 2017 | 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by MelWff
what about the strut rods are they going to swing smoothly through their arc if the outer end is pushed back a 1/2"?
I assume you are trying to do this for purely appearances?
Yes, appearance. My OCD will not allow me to have tires not centered in the wells :-)

I already have adjustable struts where one side is a rod-end.

Worse case is I slot the diff crossmember and lower mount to move it back a corresponding amount so everything is back to factory alignment. Not a big deal.

Last edited by Dynra Rockets; Mar 8, 2017 at 11:33 AM.
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Old Mar 8, 2017 | 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by MelWff
what about the strut rods are they going to swing smoothly through their arc if the outer end is pushed back a 1/2"?
I assume you are trying to do this for purely appearances?
You possibly could run the 1980-1982 strut rods which were made on an angel.



Or the ajustable struts made for the 80-82 cars....

Food for though, I've never crossed this path.

Willcox
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Old Mar 8, 2017 | 12:39 PM
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Do all C3's have this Problem that the wheel is not centered? Now that I look at it, you can see it at my car too, and it is all original Body and Suspension, other than the Koni's...
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Old Mar 8, 2017 | 12:43 PM
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Yes, they are all like that. With a 8" wheels tucked in the wells its not that noticable. With 10"+ that are flush with the fender it is much more noticeable. I'm afraid I might just have unleashed several peoples OCD now :-)

Last edited by Dynra Rockets; Mar 8, 2017 at 12:44 PM.
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Old Mar 8, 2017 | 12:47 PM
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Yes, you may have!
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Old Mar 8, 2017 | 02:14 PM
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Me too. I plan to put wider tires out back later...
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Old Mar 8, 2017 | 02:17 PM
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Mine is the same way. Driver side only though!
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Old Mar 8, 2017 | 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by 69ttop502
Mine is the same way. Driver side only though!

Check your passenger side bushing, may be shot?
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Old Mar 8, 2017 | 02:54 PM
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Offset johnny joints or modified trailing arms with adjustable rod ends might be a good approach if you don't want to modify the chassis. But if you're gonna go that far, why not convert to a C4 style 4 link type setup?
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Old Mar 8, 2017 | 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Dynra Rockets
Yes, they are all like that. With a 8" wheels tucked in the wells its not that noticable. With 10"+ that are flush with the fender it is much more noticeable. I'm afraid I might just have unleashed several peoples OCD now :-)
Never noticed it before. One more reason to lie awake at night. Shame on you.
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Old Mar 8, 2017 | 03:06 PM
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Offset johnny joints or modified trailing arms with adjustable rod ends might be a good approach if you don't want to modify the chassis. But if you're gonna go that far, why not convert to a C4 style 4 link type setup?
I have considered that option if I have to start fabricating stuff myself. Right now I am hoping to find something already in the aftermarket ready to go.

Last edited by Dynra Rockets; Mar 8, 2017 at 03:06 PM.
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Old Mar 8, 2017 | 06:07 PM
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Is the rear fender opening perfectly round? My car appears to be the same as the others but my rear is raised a bit so it doesn't look as bad with a 26.7" tire. Either way, it is what it is and I can live with it.
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Old Mar 8, 2017 | 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by resdoggie
Either way, it is what it is and I can live with it.
I can't
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Old Mar 8, 2017 | 06:24 PM
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Good luck.
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Old Mar 8, 2017 | 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by resdoggie
Is the rear fender opening perfectly round? My car appears to be the same as the others but my rear is raised a bit so it doesn't look as bad with a 26.7" tire. Either way, it is what it is and I can live with it.
The stock rear fender is a pretty smooth arch but the original GM L88 flares have a hump in them at the 10 o'clock position for exactly this reason.

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Old Mar 8, 2017 | 10:02 PM
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It might be easier to move the wheel well forward.
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