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Old Oct 12, 2017 | 09:35 PM
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From: Dracut MA
Default vacuum help

Hi gents,

I just got my 74 L82 back from getting a new top end kit, carb, and radiator put in... not impressed with the results...mostly because my headlights aren't working.

The passenger side works okay, but the driver side headlight wont go back down and it looks ridiculous driving with one up and one down...

will it break anything if i manually push it down?

Any troubleshooting advise would be greatly appreciated!
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Old Oct 12, 2017 | 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by WhiteVette09
Hi gents,

I just got my 74 L82 back from getting a new top end kit, carb, and radiator put in... not impressed with the results...mostly because my headlights aren't working.

The passenger side works okay, but the driver side headlight wont go back down and it looks ridiculous driving with one up and one down...

will it break anything if i manually push it down?

Any troubleshooting advise would be greatly appreciated!

It won't go down because the rod seal on its actuator is leaking. You can buy the rod seal kits for about $20 from any of the Corvette vendors. If you want it down you'll have to reach up under it and unlock it before you can push it down.
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Old Oct 13, 2017 | 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by 71VetteLover
It won't go down because the rod seal on its actuator is leaking. You can buy the rod seal kits for about $20 from any of the Corvette vendors. If you want it down you'll have to reach up under it and unlock it before you can push it down.
I thought the rebuild kit only works if they won't come up. If they won't go down its the actuator that has to be replaced.

Last edited by LenWoodruff; Oct 13, 2017 at 07:13 AM.
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Old Oct 13, 2017 | 07:24 AM
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Is the vacuum line on the "down" side connected properly? Maybe they knocked it loose when replacing the radiator?
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Old Oct 13, 2017 | 08:24 AM
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Hi WV,
Until you get the vacuum system operating normally again here's some help:

To close the headlight door manually you need to reach up under the headlight and pull down and slightly forward on the mechanism.

You MUST be careful to NOT pull on the headlight warning switch…. it's very easy to break. Pull on the rod in the direction of the arrows.

Here's a photo that may help guide you.
Regards,
Alan

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Old Oct 13, 2017 | 08:41 AM
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Hi HV,
I agree with Revi that it would be wise to check the routing and the connections of the hoses running from the relay to the actuator.

Here's a photo of the right side because it's easier to see.

Be certain the upper large hose on the relay runs to the rear of the actuator (it closes the headlight door) and the lower large hose on the relay runs to the front of the actuator (it opens the headlight door).
(The middle large hose is the vacuum supply to the relay.)

Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan

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Old Oct 13, 2017 | 06:29 PM
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Lets not forget the actuator relay...it can be defective or leaking and thus....not allow the headlight door to go down.

DUB
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Old Oct 13, 2017 | 09:57 PM
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From: Dracut MA
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thanks guys this was really helpful! i did a smoke test to find out where the leak was and it was the driver side relay... going to order it off amazon tonight. shouldn't be to bad to switch out.
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Old Oct 14, 2017 | 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by WhiteVette09
shouldn't be to bad to switch out.
BE CAREFUL...those machine screws have been know to seize and easily snap off.

Also I hope that the actuator relay you buy is GOOD one...because there are some out there that will only last a month or two...and do not ask me how I know this.

DUB
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Old Oct 14, 2017 | 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by LenWoodruff
I thought the rebuild kit only works if they won't come up. If they won't go down its the actuator that has to be replaced.

Yeah, you're right. I guess I had a 70 year old brain fart. Gosh I hate getting old.
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