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700r4 cooling lines

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Old Nov 2, 2017 | 06:31 AM
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Default 700r4 cooling lines

after putting the engine back in after it's rebuild, have now noticed that the top cooling pipe is dripping.
what's the best way to get up in there to tighten/nip it up?
there's no room to a spanner onto it to turn it...

bent spanner maybe?

homemade special tool?
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Old Nov 2, 2017 | 08:36 AM
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I had to use a Crowsfoot wrench and a long extension.
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Old Nov 2, 2017 | 03:43 PM
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good idea, i'll try and find one in the workshop, otherwise i'll make one....

is it a 1/2" or 12mm nut?
would it be a metric fitting being that the rest of the case is metric,
or would it be the same as the t400 that came out originally?
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Old Nov 2, 2017 | 04:57 PM
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I would put a jack under the crossmember, unbolt it and lower it an inch or two, tighten the line and jack it up. Probably faster than any work around.
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Old Nov 2, 2017 | 05:29 PM
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Yep it's metric. I can't remember if it was a 12 or 14 mm.

Last edited by Street Rat; Nov 4, 2017 at 09:08 AM.
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Old Nov 2, 2017 | 06:54 PM
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I gave up on the cooling lines decades ago, cut a opening in the floor/bellhousing, and sealed it with aluminum and screws, and RTV.....

SO over the years, it's been easy as PIE.....

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Old Nov 2, 2017 | 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by mrvette
I gave up on the cooling lines decades ago, cut a opening in the floor/bellhousing, and sealed it with aluminum and screws, and RTV.....

SO over the years, it's been easy as PIE.....

IIRC I had to remove the distributor, unbolt the crossmember, and lower the back of the transmission to access those lines. Not sure what the engineers were thinking when they designed that setup. I like the hole in the floor idea much better!
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Old Nov 3, 2017 | 01:09 PM
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I have the steel fittings in mine and then reinforced rubber lines connected. The steel fitting never has to be removed to drop the transmission, just disconnect the rubber line.
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Old Nov 3, 2017 | 01:30 PM
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Is it the adapter screwed into the case that is leaking or the line screwed into the adapter that is leaking.

If you have stock flare adapters in the case, the line is just 5/16" steel line with inverted flare fittings. Pretty sure that's the same lines and fittings as a TH400. No metric nuts or fittings on these lines.
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Old Nov 3, 2017 | 08:20 PM
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crowfoot line-wrench with extension will do the job.
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Old Nov 4, 2017 | 06:50 AM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
crowfoot line-wrench with extension will do the job.


Yes, if you just need to tighten you can do it with a crows foot. If you needed to get it started it's possible to do it (I've done it once) but every time after that I REMEMBERED to put the lines on BEFORE the trans is fully in place.
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Old Nov 4, 2017 | 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
crowfoot line-wrench with extension will do the job.
100%.and I will also use a universal on the crowfoot for added flexibility.

Mine look like this:




DUB
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