Dub, thanks for all the detailed feedback: MUCH appreciated !

 

Not meaning to 'rain on your parade'...BUT...do you have a photo of what the intake manifold looked like when you took the carburetor off??? I am concerned with the flat surface that the carburetor was set on.

I also believe that the intake is not a facotry intake...because I know I can be wrong...but I have never seen a straight runner intake on a Corvette from the facotry for yoru year model.

Usually...a straight runner intake is more for an engine that is going to be run at higher RPM's. And the reason for this is that due to the straight runners..the air fuel mix does not have a lot of turns to further break of the fuel droplets. So...in a lower RPM situation..raw fuel can be going into the cylinders....and as we all know...raw fuel does not burn. its is the vapors that ignite.

YES..I do have a few customers that have this design of intake on a car driven on the street...and I am not saying that it can not be used. But this intake likes it is the air going into it is at the velocity and ramming the air/fuel mix into the cylinders....and due to the RPMs being higher...it will not load up with raw fuel and being to run crappy. Obviously the carburetor makes a huge difference also in how the engine can run with this design of intake manifold.

I feel that this intake may not allow a Quadra-Jet to just bolt on due to the mounting surface.

DUB

 

DUB, the intake looks like an Edelbrock Torker II. You can see the Edelbrock script just behind the thermostat housing. The carb pad is rotated a bit from square with the car and is designed for a square bore carb. Manifold works ok on a 350 or bigger SBC that turns 5500 or more. Dual plane is better below 5000RPM

 

I suspect this was not original stamping. The car is a confirmed 1969 L46. The stamp is consistent but in a 0014 block with 882 heads ???

 

On careful inspection, I do think it is a first generation Torker. I really like the vintage look with clean oil filler tube.

 

Yes. The return of the Q-jet will happen. My plan is a 383, but I do want as much as possible to preserve OEM looks. It may not be with this intake, as much as I like its looks, but the Q-jet will be back. ;-)

 

Right, Gentlemen,

It’s 0700... I’ve got a full tank of gas, half a pack of cigarettes, it’s dark and I’m wearing sunglasses.

It’s off to Belgian DOT tech inspection to get a certificate of European conformity I go

Wish me luck !

Hit it !!!!

 

The aftermarket single plane intakes with their short large cross section runners are intended for continuous high rpm use whereas the OEM dual plane intakes with their longer and smaller cross section runners are intended for "off idle" to 6000 rpm use. Although the single plane intakes will work for street engines they give up a lot of low to mid range torque. With the OEM style dual plane intake and QuadraJet you'll get the benefit of increased low to mid range torque And the best fuel mileage. And the QuadraJet will prevent the "over throttle" condition that produces a huge flat spot on the low end..

 

I hope it passes with flying colors!!!!!!!

DUB

 

Good Luck !

 

Yay !!!! It passed tech. License plates by the end of next week if all goes well. A memorable comment by one of the inspectors was: “there’s no way for me to tell if any of this OEM, I’ve never seen one of these.”

Yesterday evening was the first time I drove this fella. Handling was pretty decent. Braking, for non-power, was pretty good too. Steering (eventually to be converted to rack and pinion) is fine for what it is.

I did notice that low end throttle response is dismal as several properly called. Moving off the line requires more concentration and balancing of gas and clutch than it should. It also seems to prefer upper RPM. I have no idea what can is in there. But that Torker wil eventually have to go. It’s an open plenum. (A spin off thread for that elsewhere.)

Man, it burns through gasoline !!!!

The timing tab is missing, so I’ll have to find TDC next weekend and reset it. That might help things along a little.

Other things that I have found; that someone has cared for it and it did see use at least until 1999. ;-)

I’m also finding a lot of weird, disconnected wires. Trim screws missing here and there. Rear window tray doesn’t open. Wood from storage compartments are disintegrating.

...and the keys only only work on the ignition, not the doors.

 

Man, it burns through gasoline ! And you have a "Big Grin" while doing it !
Congratulations !

 

Hi there,

Super nice 69.
I have the 69 manual as PDF, I can Skype/drop box it to you?

Thx,
John

 

BTW regarding the block, HW =L46
Does the # number on the block match the title # number?
882 heads is not the correct for the L46 engine, correct L46 heads for your car is 186 heads with 2.02/1.6 valves.

 

As you might already know...GM makes to different designs of timing tabs...and that is due to whatever the diameter of the harmonic balancer actually is will determine which one you need.

Also..as I have written numerous times and I will write it again. Keep in mind that the outer ring of the harmonic balancer can spin...so it throws off where the notch is located in relation to TRUE TDC. I never assume that the balancer is correct on cars that car in my shop for a tune-up.

I use a vacuum gauge when setting the timing and test drive it...and then I will use my timing light and read what the timing is showing me. In some scenarios...the advance timing light I have is so far off of what I know it should read...that sets off warning bells in my head and lets me know that the notch is off.

Some customers pay me to either replace the balancer...or at least go through the process to find true TDC and mark it on the balancer. Then..I check it again and see that the timing light is giving me numbers that are more correct.

DUB

 

The last 6 digits do indeed match my VIN.

 

On my 73, the ignition key and door locks are two separate keys.

 

Well, the keys to the doors must still be in Cleveland ;-)

 

So good news and well, poor news.

The good news is that my license plates and mityvac came in buuuuut. I still can’t drive it. The gas tank is Swiss cheese.

 

You may have a "build sheet" on the top of the tank so it's at least something to look forward too. Btw, if the sheet is there after removing the tank just use a razor blade to get under it and slowly remove. It worked for me.
Great car, minor setbacks. Enjoy it for years to come.