Rev Ron

There are some good threads on this site about fuseable links. None of them address this question. Why must we solder the fuseable link? In particular, the one near the starter is really difficult to access. Why not use a correct size wire connector that has heat shrink on it already. As I understand it, this should not keep the link from working like it should, to melt away when there is an overload of power. It will simply melt in the middle of the wire... no? Or, what am I missing here & need some 'schooling.' I suspect there is something big... plz, no smart remarks. I'm into the power of God... not car batteries & electrical systems... and you gotta learn sometime. Thanks.

'75

I've used the heat shrink butt connectors on them and they work fine. Use a quality crimper and give it a tug test before you shrink it, keeping the connection dry stops the corrosion and a good crimp stops heat from resistance.

red topless gator

I AGREE! Just did it with my 74 couple weeks ago!

DUB

What I find is often times is the PROBLEM is that when someone crimps a wire.. regardless if they have the good Thomas & Betts crimpers. They squeeze the heck out of it and crimp it so hard that they actually crush the copper wire right at the crimp.

And then if they do not follow up withe heat shrink tubing or use a butt connector with the extended sleeve that can be heat shrinked on it. the wire will snap at the end of the crimp. Keeping in mind if when they did this they allow this connection to flop all around and move.

If I am going to add solder to a but connector for what ever reason. I make sure I obviously use non insulated butt connectors and these butt connectors have an opening in the middle when I can see the wire from each side come into view. So when I use my soldering iron.,.I can put a dot of solder in the middle of this butt connector and then use my thick walled heat shrink with the sealant in it to seal off the butt connector and make it look very close to the factory look.

DUB

Mooser

A surprising amount of people can't or don't take the time to solder properly so the industry made crimp-only fusible links but even they were supposed to use a special "approved" crimp tool and be sealed afterwards.
I don't want to do it again and since there's only a handful of them, I go overboard and "crimp then solder" on the fusible links, non-insulated butt-connectors I usually have here but if you pull the insulated sleeve off a regular crimp connector and still use the color coded crimper it will tighten up the connector enough to hold the wires tight without over-tightening and let you solder them in place for a good electrical/mechanical connection. Followed by either heat shrink (with sealant) or liquid electrical goop and then regular, heavy wall, heat shrink. Big think is to prevent it from corroding, creating a poor joint, heating up and then prematurely melting the link right beside the joint,
M

7T1vette

You are correct! The new wire will melt inside the heat shrink material, catch it on fire, and it will transfer the flames to the rest of the car.

REAL fusible links are non-flammable: the insulation is non-flammable and the terminal ends (lumps at either end of the fusible link) are also non-flammable. So, when it melts inside the insulation, nothing catches fire.

There are actual reasons why things are made the way they are. Or, you can just gin-up something from your wiring junk pile.....

DUB

And as many know...IF a fusible link is in a wire...it MUST or SHOULD NOT be taped up in the harness of wires. The fusible link and the connector where it attaches to the main wire needs to be out of the harness bundle and exposed.

I have spools of fusible link wire and have run tests by purposely making the fusible link melt and see if my method will work and not support a fire and it does not...so I know I am good to go by using the heat shrink I use on the butt connector end.

DUB

7T1vette

Good enough. At least, you've tested it. Folks who make these things up out of 'regular' wire [without non-flammable covering] just have no idea of the risk they are taking.

DUB

I AGREE 1000%.
I have lost count on the number of cars I have had to put in a fusible link because someone just put a wire in tis place when the fusible link burned out.

And what is so SAD is that I can show them on a wiring diagram where the fusible link was from the factory...but they STILL want to argue that what has been there for a while and is working so it does NOT need to be repaired. THAT is what is sad. Because....just because it is working does not make it RIGHT.

HECK....they just might as well put a cut down ten penny nail in place of a fuse like I have seen.

DUB

7T1vette

Bubba is as Bubba does.. If the car catches fire and burns up, he'll just put it in the "back 40" with the others.

kansas123

Many years ago after the fusible link by the horn relay burned, my mechanic, after finally find it, replaced it with this. Looks like a double fuse with very thin places or contacts that would not last long if a dead short occurred. Always thought I would like to put a real link there, just have never did it.....

7T1vette

Consider yourself 'fortunate'. The fuses may have failed as intended and prevented overheating. Or....maybe not...

Time to get it fixed properly.

lionelhutz

You do not need to solder it. Yo could use a good butt splice and crimp tool instead. Heat shrink is fine over the connection. Just leave the rest of the link open in free air so it's not contained or against anything that can burn.

The problem with solder is that many people don't know how to do it correctly.

The problem with crimping is that people don't use good tooling. A proper good crimp tool can easily run over $100. Very easily. I use a Panduit CT-xxxx tool, xxxx because I can't recall the exact number offhand. These will crimp insulated connectors with no damage or deforming of the insulation.

Since I can use good crimpers and I do know how to solder correctly I might do it either way. Bu, I personally would only use double wall heat shrink tubing over the joint. Double wall has a glue inside that seals. Without that the joint is not sealed. That is what the factory uses on the C5 and C6 main fusible links at the starter hence the comment in the first paragraph about it being fine to use.

I also personally think those solder filled heat shrink joint pieces are junk. They don't get hot enough to solder correctly and they are not sealed when done.